Marsalform, Gozo Island, Malta: hot and very windy, 28

Headlands and Villages

Today was a travel day. We returned to the main island of Malta and bused to Rabat/Mdina where we will stay u till we fly out to Ireland late Thursday. We'd hoped to walk the trails here, but with Annemarie's injury this won't be possible. She's slowly healing and with the help of her meds she had a fairly easy transit today. It may well be a hamstring tear, and if this is the casa then the healing time is typically 4-6 weeks. Physio and massage when we return home.

Yesterday as a front blew past (grey with some rain today) I did have the opportunity to walk one of the trails we'd identified before leaving home. It was a pretty nice feeling to walk somewhere new again, particularly knowing that we will soon be home to more familiar grounds. As I started to climb out of town, I paused to look back. You can see the pier where Annemarie had her tumble. Had the waves been up the day before yesterday as they were today then we never would have walked out there. Only the dive lessons were operating from there.

The pass started of pretty nicely.

Slowly in places the path became little more than a goat trail and I realized my aging sandles that have been on multiple travels and all my Caminos were now well past their best before date. They provided poor footing when I reached gritty descents and roach slide areas. I note to replace them when I return home.

At one point I met two German walkers who had decided to turn around, warning that the trail deteriorated further along. I was having a good time and after saying goodbye, pressed on. It really was a beautiful day and I was very much in the mood.

The information was accurate and I ended up sliding my way down from the first headland as there was precious little purchase, but I was rewarded with a flower that I'm pretty sure I've never come across before. Very delicate and there was just the one small plant.

At the bottom of my skidding descent I found a beautiful shore line.

Also a 'bed' of jellyfish which oddly lodged themselves to the rocks and waited for the tide to come in. Tide to come in? I know that there is realatively no tide on the Med, so I'm not really too sure how they got there or why. There must be more tide than I thought.

As I climbed up towards the next headland I stopped for the view...

...a couple of times.

There were many friends along the way, not as Ken describes when he walks in known territory, but they kept me company. No snakes:)

I know that my walking buddies will confirm that the mind can wander when walking and as I went along I was giving some notice to the trail, but then it suddenly ended at a cliff edge. I shot this after moving back away from the edge. Damn I like a good scare!

I backtracked and realized that I had to scramble up a steep almost wall like headland along same cliff face. I started up without really thinking it through and by the time I was half way up I was using both feet and hands to climb. To top it off the wind was howling from behind me towards the cliff. Obviously loving heights as I do, I have no photos, but from the top away from the cliff face I did take a shot back, though it doesn't do it justice. Got my heart going for sure!

Looking out the other direction.

As I approached the beach in the distance I happened upon a group of German ladies who were, shall we say, preparing for the sun. They obviously had not expected company to arrive from my direction. I find the Europeans in general less fussy about this sort of thing, but I'm not European. So a brief hello and I moved quickly onwards. No photos.

I was walking to this beach to see if it might be possible for Annemarie to soak there, but seeing that the surf was up and no one was swimming I decided to use my hard won experiences and abandon the trail before the descent and dead recon my way upwards along a goat path hoping to cut a road that I could walk back to town on. I was also hoping to avoid a long climb out from the beach up to a town. A good lesson from Sicily!

I lucked out and thus began a very enjoyable walk through a series of villages where the natives were very chatty and friendly. A few photos as I went.

Caitlin. For you. Something for us to strive for!

The signage wasn't much help.

And for a moment I thought maybe this was Japan!

But then I found a grocery and bought supplies for happy hour with Annemarie, and Rob, a favourite Invierno drink cause it was hot and I was thirsty.

Hill top fortresses in the distance. Neil, there were windmills here too.





Then one last chat with this old fella and I was home.

Time for our supper. Annemarie is waiting!

Gozo Island, Malta: Very Warm, 27

A Most Memorable Mother's Day

Yesterday we bused and ferried from Valletta to Gozo to stay in the small coastal community of Marsaforn, a former fishing village. As has happened elsewhere, the town kind of morphed into a quieter tourist enclave where you can enjoy quieter meals, leisure and even some good walking if you like that sort of thing. It's what drew us here in the first place, and being only a few hours away from the capital, an appealing option. We jammed ourselves and our gear onto one of the local buses yesterday morning with the many day trippers and locals who visit Gozo. Being Mother's Day, the buses were extremely crowded as was the ferry between the two islands. 

Arriving eventually at our destination, we found our guest house and were soon enjoying the privacy of our room. In Valletta we'd used an Airbnb for the first time in ages and it turned out that we had a room in the owner's flat, but the owner didn't go away. In fact, as nice as the older fellow was, he and his basset hound were always there, in the main room both day and night. He never sleeps in his room on the upper floor, but rather he falls asleep on the couch with his dog and remains there all night. This meant that we were pretty much confined to our bedroom. So we stayed out all day until late in the evening, which worked ok as there was lots to entertain us and the weather has been amazing. 

So back to Mother's Day. Having arrived in time for lunch, well, we lunched down by the shore.

The place was pretty wild with almost every available table on the waterfront engaged with families doing just what they do at home on this special day. Mother's Day brunch! The Maltese version anyway. We finally found a table and ordered a simple lunch, then sat back and watched the fun. Our kids had provided me with directions and a bit of cash to look after their mother on this day, so I eagerly engaged in the process with a willing recipient.

I made a brief comment to Annemarie that while I so far liked Malta, there really hadn't been anything outstanding in our experiences to write about yet. 

As I said, there were families everywhere enjoying the day. Let me introduce you to just a few of them.

After lunch Annemarie said that she'd like to walk around the bay and look for possible swimming spots. You see, we have new untested swim suites. Mine from Sicilia and the other is a Maltese version, likely both made in China or SE Asia somewhere:) Nothing was looking too appealing swim wise, but I thought this boat had beautiful eyes!

I suggested that we walk out the cement pier ahead of us to see what the distant rocks looked like as a possible swim site. 

So I suppose in a round about way one could suggest that everything that happened after that was in some perverse way 'all my fault'. Looking out to sea I heard from behind me a sickening thump and a loud cry of pain. I turned around and Annemarie was ackwardly sprawled in a small slimy puddle of seawater. Not good. After carefully assessing her situation and being told by her to go assess the horizon instead! She needed time to get through the initial pain as I worked through next steps. Having determined that there was no head or neck injury I gently helped Annemarie to a place where she could sit. She was in real pain and not doing well. I asked a young French fellow in my broken French to go to the bar at the end of the pier and have them call for an ambulance which thankfully he did.

Breakfast time. Will complete this later. Always leave them wanting more:)    Now back from breakfast and a long headlands scramble which I'll blog later, I'll continue my version of the story...Annemarie has written a poem with her own version, and it's posted at the bottom.

So said Frenchman ran to the nearest bar and an ambulance was called from Victoria, the principal town on this island of villages. A lovely woman who was on the pier with her husband and son poking in the tidal pool came over to check on things. Turns out she's a local pharmacist and she instructed me how to manage the hospital to ensure that an x-ray was arranged. The danger being I guess that they wouldn't do one unless her leg was obviously pointed in an unnatural direction. The initial 5 minutes stretches to 15-20 minutes, but finally they arrive and they even eventually find us with everyone shouting and hooting at them to get their attention. Annemarie remained in pain with nausea and light headedness. I know she didn't hit her head because she almost hit mine after the third time I asked her about it! She's a wonderful patient:) So I guessed it was the result of the pain and a bit of shock. Anyway, the ambulance folk arrive and after the basic assessment they realize that there's no way she's going to be able to walk. So with great pride and evidence of practice they procure a gurney from the back of their ambulance and go through the process of putting Annemarie onto said gurney. The first way didn't work and they reset the gurney angle again. It was almost a keystone cops-like moment as we now reflect on and laugh at the experience. I couldn't help myself and captured a few of the proceedings. 

We half carried, half rolled her over the uneven pavement and up to the ambulance. She almost looks like she's smiling at me, but I know that she was in ridiculous pain. 

The race to the hospital was followed by a meeting with a doctor who seemed more interested in all things Irish, rather than medicine. This was after we discussed our further trip plans. While he was assessing Annemarie and they were cleaning up her rather mashed elbow I took our iPhone and tried to call the insurance folks with our credit card coverage, but the local phone network wouldn't let me make the call. I discussed costs with the doctor and he said that with everything in that it would cost about €200. Of course I told him to proceed, but that if the costs got too high to stop trying to save Annemarie. Joking if you missed it:)

We rolled down to x-ray with the upshot being nothing was broken. The doctor told Annemarie to resume her vacation and to go swimming. If you know Annemarie she wasn't too impressed with his instructions. I figure this was the Mother's Day skeleton staff. We know that Annemarie is going to pull through so there is relief all round and even a first smile.

I head off to try and pay the bill and get all the paper work sorted out, locate a pharmacy that's actually open on a Sunday. and find a taxi to get us there and then back to our small town. This proves a challenge because the 9 nursing staff and ambulance drivers are all sitting in their small office playing video games on their phones no less! Shortly to be joined by the emergency room doctor too who now seemed to have forgotten all about Ireland and was closely following the video experience. This was getting better and better, and I knew for sure that I'd be writing about this day!!

Finally an administrative type shows up and takes me and my credit card to meet with a young Maltese woman and I settle up for just €79 which is more in line when I went through almost the same process in France with a stress fracture on the Le Puy route. Except she refused to give me the paper work for my medical insurance claim. There was no reasoning with her. It was just so 'interesting'. So back to the doctor who I had to interrupt from his Sunday past time and he nicely obtained the necessary documentation for me. Someone even call us a taxi which showed up with the driver's girlfriend in tow. A small town, Sunday. Say no more. So first stop is the pharmacy to get pain killers. Cost a fraction of what they would have in Canada. So what else is new? Then it was onwards at high speed to return us to our guest house. Except...Except we had an unexpected guest who announced itself and drew a scream from the girlfriend.

 

The driver and his girlfriend got pretty excited and I just laughed in the back seat and snapped photos. Hilarious! Japan really changed my outlook on snakes and this metre long snake created a pretty funny situation. Flying along the road and it trying to get into the car! It must have had great traction as it went back and forth across the wind screen looking for a way in. Windows quickly rolled up.  We arrive and Annemarie gets out my mom-snake side and we have a closer look. 

I paid the driver and we left him to try and figure out how to extract it from under his engine hood where it slithered into. I bet he had fun with that! 

We checked in and after getting Annemarie showered and settled on the bed, I washed and hung her clothes. I skype called the number on the back of my credit card and ended up speaking with a fellow in Montreal who told me that the insurance department was only open Monday to Friday. "Nonsense" was my reply. He stuck with that story even after I patiently explained to him that of course there would be folks available 24/7. People's emergency medical conditions don't restrict themselves to business days...I less patiently explained. Nope. He wasn't having any of it. His resources told him otherwise even though he reluctantly agreed that in deed people do have medical problems 24/7. Hanging up in frustration I went through my medical emergency files that I keep links to in my email folders and low and behold I foiund what I was looking for. I called the number indicated and this time a very nice woman named Alida answered and yes I had the correct number. Yes she would process my information and provide a file number. Excellent just in case we need further assistance for Annemarie as we complete our travels. 

Feeling pleased that everything was in order we planned to try and get Annemarie out the door to her Mother's Day dinner reservation. I first tried to call my own mother, but with everything that had happened all I was able to do was to leave a brief message that was shorter than my father's long "please leave a message" introduction on their answering machine:) Sorry Dad...just saying.

So hiking stick in hand Annemarie struggles to find her way to the elevator and then we begin the slow walk along the promenade in front of all the other outdoor dinners in search of our restaurant. Which we find and they have saved us a beautiful table at the very front overlooking the bay. Wonderful! 

Annemarie is on some pretty good pain killers so she orders a fruity non-alcoholic tall drink and with a bottle of wine for myself we're in business! I'm thinking that given the look on her face that she's either really thirsty or they have indeed put something in her drink!

Any event, we are treated to a beautiful reflected light from the sunset which softly colours both sky and water. A special moment when you know you've made it through a tough afternoon. 

A wonderful meal arrives including a huge plate of sautéed mushrooms, a seafood pasta for Annemarie and my first plate of grilled calamari on this travel. Heaven. 

So, you'd be pretty sure that all the excitement would be over. It's about 10pm and we are just finishing dessert and preparing to wander slowly back to our guest house. However, we spot what appears to be a fire in an apartment across the bay. I advise our hostes and they confirm that this is unusual. They make calls and tell us that the owner of the building will check it out. We watch as is grows but the fire seems strangely contained to the apartment. Annemarie is exhausted, so we make our exit still wondering if it was a real fire. I look at my photos and decide that yes it's a fire, but perhaps a controlled fire.

It's been an eventful Mother's Day and I sleep like I haven't slept in weeks. This morning Annemarie woke feeling stronger and while she hates it, she's taking it easy today. We have buses and a ferry tomorrow and in a couple of days a flight to Ireland. She knows she needs to rest, but she hates it:) Best patient ever! Now I'm taking her our for gelato, but first I'll add her poem and you can read her version of events. It's shorter than mine, but she was delirious and has no idea of just how much I had to do:) You'll see that I'm not even mentioned! I know! What's that all about?

 And yes, I will be blogging about the beautiful scramble/walk I had today.

Crash!

In the bright sunshine, I strode with great confidence across the dock

Next thing I knew is was crumpled there like a wet sock

Below the surface of a puddle was slippery slime

Just waiting for the unsuspecting ... I guess it was my time

Like a cartoon character slipping on a banana peel

My legs flew out from under me, it seemed unreal

It was a hard fall, causing a graze to my elbow

But the biggest impact was the pain it would bestow

In my butt and thigh the pain was great

I lay on the ground, waiting for it to dissipate 

When I finally rose, I tried to walk but found I couldn’t 

My left leg worked, but my right one wouldn’t 

So I got to check out the Maltese medical system, an ambulance to the rescue

In these circumstances it was the only thing to do

The doctor at the hospital wasn’t particularly impressed 

They cleaned my elbow, but it was never dressed

Reluctantly they X-rayed, but were sure there was no break

They were right, making no mistake

With a scrip for painkillers they sent me on my way

They had visiting to do and games to play

The taxi from the hospital carried an extra couple of guests

The driver’s girlfriend and a SNAKE to put us all to a test

I rested, then went out for dinner and watched the setting sun

It’s Mother’s Day, I wasn’t going to let this injury spoil my fun

After a night’s rest, I am much improved

Pretty sure I tore my hamstring, but that’s yet to be proved

I have no broken bones, and no bruising to show

These are very good signs you know

It indicates no osteoporosis is looming in me

And no diabetes either, you see

This part of the holiday was slated to be restful and tame

Instead this day has brought its own kind of fame.

And Caitlin, as promised, this photo is for you. Yup, they celebrated it here too. 

Catania, Sicilia, Sunny and Warm, 27

Who Doesn't Love A Fish Market?

We're sitting at the airport in Catania waiting for our flight to Malta where we are looking forward to a week of new wanderings and discovery. With a little time to pass I thought I'd take a moment to bring my journal up to date. We've been traveling fairly briskly since arriving almost three weeks ago and today we took a quieter day to slowly wander the town, with a typically light Sicilian breakfast at a local bar on the edge of the main piazza. The sun was warm and this seemed to balance the strong black tea and croissant. A lovely morning where the pigeons were cooing and gliding into the square. The tour groups were queuing up for their day of scheduled activities. All of these sights were music for the soul taking us both back to the many times we have enjoyed such moments during our travels. 

Today we had selected a visit to the local fish market. It's pretty historic in this town and the area it's been set up in has been operational in this capacity for centuries. 

After walking through the stalls and stepping over the puddles and fish guts for a while we found a perch above the market and stood there transfixed for a time watching the stories below unfold as I guess they have for years into the past. The more I watched the scene, the more it began to bring to mind the many paintings I've seen in galleries all over Europe where the painter has captured often many stories on their canvas. 

There was the story of the elderly lady accompanied by her son who arrived at the table of her favourite vendor as she has likely done for years. They selector all things a small shark. Price negotiated, the son wanders off to look around and the fisherman and the old woman gossip about whatever one gossips about while your shark is been prepared. 

First the shark fins are removed, then the guts of the matter are removed followed soon after by the tough skin. 

Then as a special touch the shark is cut up into manageable pieces.

Finally ready, the package is wrapped and delivered to the woman.

I can't help but wonder how she will prepare and serve this unusual selection. There were so many other things that she might have purchased instead.

The negotiations and banter often became quite noisy at some tables.

However, in each case with negotiations complete there was a gentle sort of handshake and sometimes a kiss on the cheeks and everyone seemed happy enough. 

Imagine. Day after day, year after year this process continues. Something I often think of when I travel or walk along ancient trails. The continuation of process.

A few more images of the market then I must go walking. We are this morning in Malta!

The artichoke vender. I've never seen artichokes prepared this way.

Our thoughts are with you L. Chin up and keep smiling. xoxo G&A