"Mama Mia, Fantastico!!"
These were the words spoken by a young Italian pelegrina, Constanza, as she came in for a coffee at the convent while we were taking a break today. I thought that it was such a perfect description of our walk that I asked her if I might use it. I was simply going to call this post Fields of Flowers, but the other option was so very much better:)
However, before I go into the walk today, I thought that I might backtrack a bit to yesterday afternoon. We were sitting in the bar as I wrote the blog, where else?, when we were approached by the deputy mayor who was introduced to us by Frank who owns the bar. Well, one thing led to another and then the Mayor, Massimo, was called because they hadn't met any Canadians walking the route, and he brought with him one of the main proponents of the Magna, Giovanni who just happened to be in town check facilities and accommodation status. All very nice fellows. We discussed the route and things that might be changed and new things coming up. Last year in the first year of this Cammino 1,300 people crossed. This year they expect more, and we will follow from home to see how this develops. They have done such an excellent job of putting this route together from a seed of an idea 8 years ago. Very impressive! Giovanni's spouse completed the recent translations on the website so that there are now English and German versions. My German walking buddies are going to want to know about this route. So here we all are.
Now back to today. Probably one of the most beautiful days of walking that I have experienced in quite some time. That's saying quite a lot after logging over 5,000 kms of Camino and Henro in the past 5 years. I've enjoyed all of it, but some days just stick out and return to my consciousness during those long grey winter days. This will no doubt be one of them. It justified all the early morning visits to the gym this winter and the repetive training walks the 4 weeks before we came here. Hey Dennis, if I complain about the gym next winter, please remind me all the reasons I go there!
I'll admit that with the jet lag, sleep gaps, dehydration, heat and altitude changes that I was pretty tired last night after climbing all day and just wanted to skip dinner and sleep. That was fortunately not to occur and we went to Frank's Bar and had a wonderful plate of spaghetti and a drink with a retired couple from Switzerland who are also walking the Magna. That and the very good glass of red wine seemed to do the trick and served to wake me up, at 10 o'clock. So I spent a sleepless night wishing I could sleep, reminding myself that all I had to to the next day was walk. I've done this many times before and I guess the trick still works because I felt like a new person today with loads of energy. If I could figure this out and bottle it I'd make a few million, no doubt! We were up earlier today, just after 6 hoping to beat the heat. Today is Italian Independence Day where the whole country pretty much shuts down and they celebrate the end of Nazism and Fascism in the 1940's. We were led to believe that there is partying in the streets, but apparently, at least in these parts, it's quietly celebrated with family. Fortunately we were able to get tea/coffee and pan de chocolate in a local bar for breakfast before we set out on a stiff climb. But what views!
Better and better as we went higher. Looking back to Santa Cristina Gela...a beautiful name for a very nice town.
After cresting the ridge we started our descent and met some friends who must have found a way out during the night as all their friends were still behind fencing.
The views on this side were also pretty good.
In the distance we could hear the bells of the cattle being herded to another field and we felt right at home from our experiences in France and Spain.
As we dropped lower into the valley we transitioned to many kilometres of walking through dew covered fields of tall grass and
Fields of Flowers. See how I worked that in here:) The outside of our boots and legs were soon soaked, but we hardly noticed. The experience was just that good.
On the day we arrived a series of heavy thunderstorm systems that had hit the area the previous week ended. We'd been reading reports of Pilgrims have days from hell as they walked through the very thick gluelike mud. The type that sticks to your boots and adds a kilo of weight to each foot. The still damp evidence of their experiences lingered everywhere, and we too had to detour around still deep mud bowls. Fortunately we were not forced to take off our boots and wade the several streams as the torrents had dropped.
A few last photos. We climbed up through there as the day progressed. Very lovely, the descent better!
We also stopped at a convent for a break. Very simple outside, very lovely inside.
Tonight we are in Coleone, the historical home turf of the Italian Mafia where the heads of the Mafia families continue to be buried to this day. Several months ago I read that after dying in prison that the top guy was buried here, and that he'd continued to run the Mafia from prison. Given we are trying to keep a low profile here tonight and as Sicilia is also trying to put this chapter on the back burner, that's all I'll say on this topic.
We had no lunch as it was all closed down, but a beer was available thanks to Annemarie. We will go out to the one restaurant open tonight to fuel up. We passed a tour group on the way today who are walking in a tight group and walking partial stages, so there will be competition for restaurant tables. We leave soon to try our luck!
After a day like this, I think Annemarie finally understands why I prefer to walk in the spring. NEil, you will enjoy it to no end!
Buon Commino!
