Early morning in Hiketa as I sat at my window and watched the sun rise across the river flowing just below me. Much has happened and I know time is needed to absorb it all, but I know too that I have to get up and prepare for one last day on the road. One last precious day. I'm pleased with my efforts to find a place to stay after T88 so that I could have today. No pressure or need to reach Temple 88. Just time to coast to the finish and complete the circle I set out to walk so many weeks ago. Completing the circle holds special meaning for me. Annemarie and I discovered that last fall when we completed a circle of sorts and walked into St. John Pied de Port three years after we walked out to begin our first Camino. It was a special moment for us, and I knew it would be again today.
I went down stairs to enjoy a very good breakfast with Roy. We decided to begin the day walking together. As I paid my host and thanked him for a delicious breakfast, all in Japanese I might add, he reached over and took my hand, shook it and I assume congratulated me in Japanese. It was very touching as the Japanese seldom in my experience shake hands with a foreigner in these situations.
We walked through town past the beautiful red buildings this town is famous for. In the past the town was a port well known for its production of soy sauce, sake and marine products. Many of the buildings from that period remain and are in use, just like this red soy sauce warehouse.
We set off along the coast with nice views out over the Seto Inland Sea. What a change in the weather from yesterday. My type of weather:)
However, eventually we had to head inland through the coastal range and enjoy the last morning climb. I'll strangely miss these steaming sweat sessions that get the blood moving and make me feel so alive. Well, I'll admit sometimes less alive than others. Perhaps I was just feeling nostalgic this morning? Some where along the way Roy stopped for a call of nature, but unaware I continued to climb at my pace. When he didn't show after a time I figured he made the decision to transit in on the alternate route he was considering. No problem. As I've said, together or apart, we all walk our own Henro and I'm happy enough walking alone.
For days, weeks, I've been hearing noises in the grasses and side areas of the trails. Often it's just lizards and maybe a small bird, but after the snake encounters I've often wondered just how frequently I've passed close by and not known. Today with a bit of time I again heard a sound and stopped just past it to have a closer look. Yup...
I wonder how many snakes in the grass there's been, particularly the past month since it really warmed up? Doesn't really bear considering does it. Moving on:)
I climbed to the top of Ōsaka-tōge Pass at about 400m and then began the long steep descent...so much more fun sometimes than the climb. With my sticks it's sometimes feels like skiing down! Feet moving quickly, effortlessly.
Down to the flatter areas and heading for T3.
I arrive at T3. Oh, it seems so strange. Last time when Annemarie and I passed this area it was the end of March, cold and damp. The forests were grey and brown after winter and not looking very appealing. We were running on excitement that day as we forged ahead into the unknown, everything so new. Today it was exactly the opposite. It was sunny and very warm, the temples providing a comfortable place to stop and reflect, to observe. The forests had turned into a subtropical jungle and everything was completely as it should be.
I took this very photo on Stage 1. I'll have to compare them...bet this one is warmer, not better, but different.
Then it was off to T2 walking in the reverse direction. This would be fun! I meant a Japanese Henro quite lost and redirected her onwards to T3. Now that was a switch! Then I met an American family of 4 who were taking a taster walking the first 5 temples today. They had all sorts of questions and at the end the mother said that I appeared quite composed. I thought about that as I walked away and decided that was a pretty good description. 1200 kms on, 46 days after we started and with 42 walking stages under my belt I was feeling pretty composed. I've seen many things on this journey and overcome whatever was placed on the route. We all have.
Temple 2 where we bought our Henro gear. Still a nice staff in the admin building where I again had my book stamped. Much more pleasant than at T1.
The best hand cleansing place on the whole Henro, hands down! I guess no pun intended?
Roy surprised me at the temple. He'd gone the same route but ended up well behind me and hitched a ride in. We said we'd connect at T1 because he was going to stay with his ride.
Ok, just hang on for a while. I'm off to meet 6-8 Henro buddies for a celebratory dinner. I should be back in 4-6 hours and then if I'm up to it, I'll finish this before I try to get some sleep!
There were 8 for dinner. Everyone a bit tired of eating Japanese so we all agreed on Indian and we had a wonderful meal with great discussions and of course there were a few beers. We all said good night and parted ways. It's always like that. Some to Oz, some to America and three of us back to Canada.
Back to today then a few hours of sleep. A full day tomorrow.
As I walked to T1 there were lots of thoughts and emotions. Perhaps it was becoming clearer that this Henro was finally over? I was going home. Seems almost surreal. But yes, on Tuesday I'll get on a plane and gaining a day I'll arrive in Vancouver the morning of the same day. Funny stuff.
Temple 1 was pretty much as I remembered it except that there were 5 Henro there that I knew. Most had trained or bused in from elsewhere close to T88, well behind where Roy and I stayed last night. It confirmed my decision to walk in. Such a satisfying walk.
My real Henro photo. This is how I really appeared most days, well except that I often didn't wear the white shirt because it was too hot. Most at the table tonight didn't either.
We had our books stamped again then walked down to the Bando train station for our final trip into Takashima. I found some food, Skyped with Annemarie and then slept for a while before showering and beginning this post. An email from Kristine arrived from T88 where she arrived. I hope there are a few Henro she knows to celebrate with when she arrives in two days. Always a nice touch to the end of the last day.
Now the reflections will begin and I might post a few thoughts tomorrow. After I sleep, eat and shop!
For now, Happy Mother's Day to my Mom. I took this photo for you today.. It was after all Mother's Day here today:)
One of the things that makes this journey different is its circularity. I know medieval pilgrims would get to Santiago and then walk back home, but nobody does that nowadays, so the walk goes in only one direction. But you've managed to return to your starting point--twice, actually, since you returned to St. Jean Pied-de-Port, too. There's something more meaningful about the return to the beginning, as Neil's quotation from Eliot suggests. The real return is the return home, I suppose, even though it's a few hours crammed into a flying steel tube and then you're there. I wonder how things will feel when you're back in Saanich, if you'll feel different after this experience. Perhaps you'll tell us.
ReplyDeleteKen
A good day and a good way to bring your Henro to a successful conclusion. Good memories - good experiences - challenging days - probably a few down moments that you kept to yourself - but everything is positive now as you get ready to wing your way home.
ReplyDeleteMom appreciated your flower garden picture for Mothers Day! Nice touch ............
Safe travels
Dad
3-2-1 and you are there. A great journey, Geoff, and many things for us to reflect on too, those of us who have read our way around this henro. Thank you for your daily offering of stunning photos, together with your description and some of your thoughts. As Ken says, the circle home continues. In a way it's a journey we are walking all our lives. Blessings, Neil and Sarah
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