Stage 38: Zentsūji - Kokubu, T75-80, 28 kms, Hot, 30

Walking with Tutsuka

 

Morning sunrise at the temple this morning. Seems fitting given I was up at 4:45 for the early prayers at the main temple.

 

The temple service was very good with the six of us in attendance, twice as many monks and priests as we Henro. I didn't understand any of it, but I sat quietly on the floor, closed my eyes and listened to the rhythm of the sutras and the controlled clashing of the brass cymbals and ringing of bells. It was quite beautiful with a feeling of something very ancient happening around me. Afterwards we were taken to the front to participate in a purifying ritual (I think) and the taken to a stairway to descend one by one into the darkness under the temple to make our way through the 90 metre tunnel in complete darkness. Not quite sure what that was all about, but pleased to report I survived the experience intact! After that we were directed back to our accommodation for a good breakfast and from there made our own way back onto the Henro. I'll have to ask David about the tunnel when I return to Tokushima. 

I found my way to the beautiful T76, Konzōji, established in 774. A nice feel to this temple, and it being early there were just a few Henro there.

 

I discovered 'Mr Nagata' there and finally found out that his real name is Tutsuka who I already knew lived in Nagata by the Main airport for Tokyo. They all know me as Geoff-San, but learning the names of the Japanese Henro is often difficult. There, that's mission accomplished. I have everyone's photo. 

While he doesn't look it, Tutsuka is 65 and retired early from his job as an electrical engineer at age 60. We have been crossing paths and staying in the same accommodations off and on for the last month. I asked him if he wanted some company today and he replied in his limited, but adequate English that he would be pleased for the company. We ended up walking together for the rest of the day. Right out of the gate he asked me if I wanted to stop for a drink, translated that meant ice cream:)  So we did! 

The camphor trees in the temple grounds are very old and quite stunning, but I wouldn't want to have to rake up in the Fall!

 

As we walked I discovered that Tutsuka had as many questions for me as I had for him which made the early hours of the walk slip by quite nicely. As a matter of fact we missed the turns to a couple of temples today as we talked and had to backtrack. He hasn't traveled outside Japan, but was very courious about Canada and the Caminos in Spain. I encouraged him to walk, but he's intimidated about the language. I reminded him that I was in the same situation coming here. A seed planted, wonder if it will germinate?

 

One of the reasons I wanted to walk with Tutsuka, aside from the fact that he has a good sense of humour and a good temperament, is because he is clearly walking for his first time on a very religious Henro. I've heard him repeating his sutras in temples for weeks, and each time he approaches his task with clear dedication. To listen to Tutsuka recite the mantras and sutras is pure pleasure. Music to the ears, better than the monks and priests I've heard. I always know he's there when I arrive at a temple because I can hear his very distinctive sound. I quietly recorded him today and I wish I could share it on this post. 

 

T77, Dōryūji was pretty interesting as well.

 

 

As we walked I noticed the heavy dust in the air. I'd heard that a massive wind was carrying sand from the deserts north of Tibet and in Mongolia towards the Pacific with Japan in its way. I think it's called a cori, but I'll have to look that up, "yellow sand" just like the sands that blow across the Med from the Sahara.

 

T78,  Gōshōji was also pretty interesting...I lucked out again today.

 

 

 

 

It was pretty steaming hot today. Drank lots of water and took our time, stopping at one of the famous Joyfull restaurants for a good lunch. I'd planned this stop after yesterday's missed lunch, and my pal being just as tired of stopping at kombini was only too happy to switch it up. A decent lunch for about $13. 

 

The last temple today was pretty good... 

 

...but by this time it was late and I was ready to find my barn for the night. I said goodbye to Tutsuka and a couple of others that I've come to know, and headed off down the highway.

Tomorrow it looks like lots of rain heading this way, and of course there's no mercy for us foot falling Henro as we will begin our day with a 500 metre climb across the Goshikidai plateau which sticks out into the Seto Inland Sea. Sadly there are two temples up there or I'd be well within my rights to stay low and follow the highway in to Takamatsu where a nice bed awaits for three nights. As it is, a long stage tomorrow. Ok, some planning to do for the rest of my Henro. Places are booking fast and I might have some trouble finding places to stay after T88, and if that proves correct then I'll find another option.