Stage 40...how did that happen? At times I wondered what it would feel like to be on the brink of completing my Henro. Now I know, and if you want to know everything that's going though my mind and feel the emotions that are just barely below the surface, well it's probably best that you walk this for yourself, living it day after day as you walk through and experience to continuous self discoveries that are this Henro.
If that's not in your quiver then you could always buy me a beer or two and I just might share with you a couple of thoughts. It would have to be very good beer:)
Well Stage 40 started with the usual 300m morning climb. Not super tough, but after being a bit of a couch potato and eating lots for the past two days it was a good wake up:) It was really warm this morning with high humidity, and I was soon soaked as I climbed to T84, Yashimaji.
During the 12th century the top of this mountain was the site of a major battle between the Heike and Genji Clans. There is reference to it and grave sites in the area. This pond was very famously called the Pond Of Emerald Ball, but the name was changed to Pond of Blood after the Clans washed their bloody swords in it. Nice. I wonder if they might have foregone that if they knew there would be this poor name change?
The view from the top was quite nice, if hazy. The small peak across the way was my next target. Lower, but a steep little so 'n so.
The descent off the mountain was a bit of a scramble, prompting a fellow Henro to comment that in his opinion it was one of the hardest on the Henro. Hmmm? Didn't seem too bad to me, but everyone is different. At least a breeze had come up to make it more tolerable.
There are still critters around here, wild boar warnings and warnings for the huge hornets. I saw a few of those the other day...very cool! And yes, I did shut the gate:)
Up to T85, Yakuriji where it is said that Kōbō Daishi before traveling to China visited the mountain and planted 8 chestnut trees. When he returned to continue his Ascetic training, 5 swords fell from heaven and a mountain god appeared declaring the site was sacred. Honest, I don't make this stuff up!
A nice feel to this place. A gentle feeling if you like.
A brisk descent!
Then a wander to T86, Shidoji. A bit of a kind of scrambled temple site...at least that's what I thought. Of course my photo makes it look unscrambled, but you can trust me. Scrambled.
When I received my stamp the priest gave me an osettai. A very nice pin for my hat celebrating the 1,200th anniversary of this temple. I later found out that not every walking Henro received this, making it all the more of a special gift. He probably just gave it to those who looked like lost causes, very unlikely to find Nirvana. No matter, I like the pin!
A good story comes with this temple. It seems that when Fujiwara was constructing Kōfukuji temple in Nara, his sister sent him 3 treasure balls in memory of their father who had passed away. However, as the boat bearing the jewels passed through Shido Bay, the undersea dragon-god stole them. Fujiwara married a local woman diver who agreed to retrieve the balls if their son could inherit the Fujiwara clan. She was successful, but sadly died in the attempt. It's unclear if the son inherited, but I'd like to think so...a happy ending.
A 7 km walk to T87.
My first sighting of the mountain I have to climb tomorrow in the haze. T88 is on the far side and I understand it's quite the adventure getting up there. Some take the long road around to avoid the worst of the climb, but I figure that I've got to earn the 88th stamp, so I'm climbing. 
T87, Nagaoji.
Just about dinner time and I want to finish this. Excited for tomorrow and whatever it will bring. It's been a long road this Henro and most people I meet are ready for it to be completed. I'm sure we will all experience mixed emotions as we walk tomorrow. Lots to think about on the way to the summit and T88, Okuboji!
PS. My host told me to expect aggressive monkeys tomorrow on the climb. Aggressive in that they try to steal things! Just like in Indonesia. If it rains it may be better to walk the road up. Morning decision.
Blogger is acting up this morning. I wonder if it'll let me post this comment instead of disappearing it.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, tomorrow: through a troop of angry monkeys, up a hill, to the end of your pilgrimage. So many thought and emotions will accompany the conclusion of your walk. I'm sure you're prepared for that!
I'll buy you a beer and listen to the story of the lost cause--you've got the pin to prove it!
Keep walking!
Ken
Hi Geoff
ReplyDeleteSo close now. We're sitting up in bed looking at the early morning light on the mountains here, imagining you facing your last mountain (of this trip, anyway). Interestingly enough our friend Mike was in Santiago on Wednesday, and will probably finish at Finisterre tomorrow too - a strange symmetry - significant pilgrimages coming to an end at the same time. It seems fitting that the final temple on this route stands on its own mountain, apart from the others (protected by monkeys!!!). It's like it really gives you the opportunity to savour the fulfilling of the journey. We hope that this comes to pass, and that it is a great day tomorrow. Blessings, Neil and Sarah
Hello Geoff, I'd like to congratulate you as you get to the end of your beautiful contemplative journey!Ive followed you along the way & there were some very tough times but as that very special Canadian poet Leonard C said, "there are cracks in everything, that's how the light gets in..". And you always found that light. Loved your words & photos. I hope you ease gently back into the noise and over stimulation of our everyday life! Well done!
ReplyDeleteHappy birthday Annemarie! xxx
Barbara