Stage 35: Mishima - Minshuku Aozora, T65&66, 31kms, Sun, 28

Sideswiped On A Mountain

I can now confess to my journal that I was dehydrated when I arrived at my Ryokan last night. I was caught unawares by the heat and had worn my peak cap instead of my sun hat because of the early cloud cover. Clearly a bit worn down by these Golden Week forced stages, I wasn't paying close enough attention and got a bit fried. I changed my hat and rested a number of times, but by then the damage was done. It happens from time to time. Part of the journey. I ate well last night and rehydrated as well as possible and again this morning. A nice Dutch couple I'd had dinner with offered for me to share their taxi up to T65, saving me a climb and 6 kms of walking. Aware that I had the highest climb on the 88 today, I accepted and started from there, cutting my day to 25 kms. Much more manageable under the circumstances. I carried 1.5 litres of water including a half litre spiked with electrolytes. A shaky start, but with continued water flowing in and some fresh air I was making good progress. 

T65 wasn't much to look at, but the dragon was great! I had a wonderful chat with Atnnemarie this morning before starting and we discussed that after over 80-90 temple visits in the past 7 weeks, I'm likely getting templed out. 

 

I walked on in the shade, but at 8am it was already 20C. Another hot day on the way.

 

I caught up to the Dutch and they were taking a break. A 15 km day for them, so they were putting along. Nice kids.

 

Looking ahead. Is that my 900 metre (3,200') mountain?

 

The Japanese are such gardeners, their trees are usually well trimmed!

 

This woman was I think the first person I've seen planting rice seedlings in Japan by hand. I'm further north again, and the planting I witnessed in the south is just getting underway here.

 

Another long tunnel with very little walking shoulder, but at least there was some.

 

Approaching the main climb of the day. Looking back and wishing I didn't have to do this! 

The climb was long and it was steep. I'm thinking that I was dragging my butt because of the problem from yesterday. Usually I climb strongly and quickly. Turns out it was a good thing that I was going slower...

 

This fellow is Mamushi, a Tiger Snake and is as deadly as they get here. The guys at dinner confirmed it. Warnings are usually posted in Japanese on the trails so I can't read them. I usually walk along watching as Neil taught me, but after so many kilometres I'm sometimes a bit oblivious. As I said a hot day so the snakes were active. This fellow was less than a half meter in front of me when he crossed quite suddenly. I guess he felt the vibrations from my steps. 

 

I tried throwing small sticks and stones around it to get it to move away...they often do in Australia when we saw them while trekking there. This guy just got more aggressive as per their reputation.

 

The trail was U shaped, so to get around it I had to climb up and over. I messaged Kristine so she knows to watch for it...they can be territorial so I figured better she knew than to be surprised like I was. After this encounter my energy level miraculously picked up and I climbed quicker than I had been! I saw this fellow higher up, but I'm convinced that while over a metre long, he wasn't dangerous. I'd seen these before.

 

Ok, hence the name of this post. Also I never did see the mountain I climbed, as high as it was! Go figure?

The temple itself was amazing! Just when I was getting a little bored with the most recent visits this place shows up. I stayed for almost 1.5 hours. Here's a few shots.

 

 

 

I treated myself at the gondola station (how most people access this temple...you think they walk up!?) to the best ice cream! I'll give you the goofy shot...

 

The view.

 

Almost 1 kilometre up.

 

There were many, many of these incredible figures too. I kind of thought it would be a bit creepy to sleep up here. Very life like, and life size too. This guy was making money just by putting out his pot.

 

Yoga poses? 

I decided that my descent strategy was going to be as fast as I could go. I figured I'd be past the snakes before they knew I was there. It seemed to work fine. I eventually arrived at the flowering tree level, about 300 metres. 

 

I caught up to this Henro at the bottom, and when he saw me he started to run/walk. I knew I'd seen this before in Spain. The race for a bed thing. Sure enough he dashed into the minshuku where I had my reservation (just ahead on the right) and was turned away. I hope he found a place. Hard to do right now.

 

I'm staying in an excellent and recommended place tonigh right at the hoot of the mountain. I was so looking forward to the hot bath, ice cold shower combo. It didn't disappoint. My pal from the past weeks who I catch up to late each day came in later plus others I'd met. In all there were four of us. Dinner was excellent as was the cold beer, and with two of the guests having a little English we spoke of many things. It was great! My host helped me to book a couple of more places after the wild boar dinner. I'm in a farm house again with free laundry. I've been washing a few clothes each night in the sink the past 4 days so nice to get everything clean again. I'm sleeping Japanese style on the floor, but I have a real pillow:)  Simple pleasures.

A flat 25 kms tomorrow and then I'm shortening it right down for a day to stay at a temple Kristine emailed me about. The guys at dinner agreed it was a special stop. I need a break from this pace and while I feel good tonight, I know that I have to look after myself. I'm planning at least a two night break in the next main city, Takamatsu later next week. From there it will be a challenging 100 kms to complete the Henro. But as the highway goes I'm getting close:)  First highway sign with Tokashima on it. I still have to wander all over the place so a ways to go yet.

 

Check the name out! Tasted the best though. You gotta love the names the Japnese give things. Very special!

 

And lastly, at the temple I transitioned from Bodai dōjō, Place of Enlightenment to the Kagawa Prefecture and the Nehan dōjō, Place of Nirvana. It has been quite the journey.