Stage 36: Minshuku Aoroza - Takase, T67-70, 25 kms, Cloud, Sun & Irish Mist, 24

Connecting

One of the things I like best about travel is trying to connect with the local people. It's a bit difficult to explain, but for me it's those connections, whether they be for a few days or just for a few brief moments that make the travel experience more fulfilling and memorable. I think many people feel this way and hopefully this is very evident in my journal posts. While walking in Japan the language presents me with a formidable barrier so I have to find ways to connect, to encourage those brief interactions to happen. It's of course easier when the people are like many of the inhabitants of Shokuko, very willing to help a Henro. But believe me, it's not always like that. Generally speaking the rural and village communities are more friendly and open than those in the cities and larger towns. In my experience, this is generally the same everywhere I've travelled.

I stayed on a farm last night and made such a warm connection with my hosts who out maneuvered me this morning when I was angling to take a photo of them. Here is is.

 

Ha, but I had the last laugh because I took one of him last night! He's in the t-shirt to the left.

 

 

For sure there is a lot of wondering about foreigners as we walk through a village or a rural environment. It's written on their faces. I find most are wanting to say hello or good morning or good afternoon. These are the common greetings and are said again and again throughout the day. It's part of the politeness code if you like. However, there are also many times when I find people unwilling to make eye contact or they see me coming and cross the street to avoid having to say something. For clarity, the people here are extremely courteous. It's just that sometimes they appear uncomfortable with foreigners when they don't have much experience in those situations. Fair enough. In those cases I weigh up whether or not to simply say a polite greeting. I hope that perhaps my effort will make it easier for them next time they cross paths with a foreign Henro. 

So I look for ways to connect. Two days ago as I walked along I noticed many people outside washing their cars. A normal chore and here I often see whole families involved in the process. A simple hello with a thumbs up for their efforts and a big smile is usually all it takes to get a favourable response and sometimes a short interaction. 

The other day as I was walking on a side road a mother and her three children approached me. Clearly the objective was to get the kids speaking English with me. The oldest boy was 6 and the middle daughter was 3 and there was a baby who wasn't chatting too much. They wanted to know how old I am, they all seem to want to know this here, and always they want to know where I'm from. We chatted for about 15 minutes and then distracted I walked off  on the wrong road and ended up on a very busy highway. I found my way back to the route some distance on, but that was ok because of the connection.

I'm getting to know a number of the Japanese Henro, many don't speak any English and that's ok because there are ways to connect. Last night in my minshuku there was a fellow who kept going outside. I assumed that he was looking to see if my laundry was done so he could do his. I tried to explain that the washing machine was available. No luck and we laughed it off with apologies. A half hour later he asked me to sit down outside as he enjoyed a beer. He called a number and gave me his phone. I answered thinking this was pretty odd. I found myself speaking with his son somewhere in Japan. His son was fluent in English. He asked me if everything was ok and I laughed and explained the laundry situation. Then we both laughted and soon his father was too. A connection. He will be here tonight and as I passed him resting at a small hut he agreed to my taking his photo. You see, I have a plan. Today I wanted to try and take the photo of each of the Henro at our minshuku last night. My goal for today. Here's the first as mentioned.

 

Kids are easy to connect with when they are in a group. They know you aren't from their world and they are instantly curious about everything in yours. I've posted photos and described some of these encounters. 

Sometimes I'm not considered to always be the most patient person. Now in all honesty I'm working on this and while here it's one of my primary personal development pieces. It's also a great way to connect with people. I usually have a pretty good idea where I'm going here, but I'm often stopped by locals who try to explain to me how to get where I'm going. For example this happened twice today inside of 50 metres! I was so patient as I listened twice to the same explanations about how I should walk down the straight road I was already walking along to get to T70:)  I'm growing. Still a work in progress, but there's hope.

Ok, onto the day. I was last out the door a full half hour behind everyone else. I somehow seem to arrive before everyone and they all tease me about catching buses each day. What can I say? I tell them they're shorter, they laugh. Then they talk about me in Japanese. Endless fun! 

It was cloudy after some rain in the night. My host bravely predicted that there would be no rain today. He was wrong. I finally figured out what mountain was Mt. Unpenji of yesterday's fame. As I walked away and continued the descent I could see the cable car depot at the top. Rain falling now at the top.

 

It was pure solitude as I walked down.

 

 

T67, Daikōji was very tranquil when I arrived. My legs didn't thank me for the multiple stairs, and I didn't offer apologies either. 

 

Another pal from last night showing me how he drys his wall hanging that he has stamped at each temple. Many people will pass these generation to generation, or be cremated with it. A very prized possession as are the stamp books we are slowly accumulating our temple stamps in. I know mine will be a very special memory of my time here. Photo number two!

 

The two temples for T68-69 are side by side and were really nice. An Irish mist settled in and I sat under this huge tree for a full half hour thinking about this journey and how I want to handle the remaining 11 days until I fly home.  

Eventually I had to put on Caesar and start to walk through the rain. My camera was tucked well away, but when can I pass poppies without thinking of Spain and the Plata? 

 

T70, Motoyamaji, a place legend suggests is protected by a swarm of bees...it's ok, I have an epipen:)

 

 

Then with just 6 kms to walk I found myself mostly in back roads with small reservoirs full of turtles...but boy were they shy. 

 

 

And there were some interesting skylines to enjoy.

 

Tonight I'm in a dated, but long running Ryokan where the hosts are very welcoming and the food excellent. Tomorrow a very short stage by design, but there are 5 temples to visit and consider. The last is the prize.