Well, all good things must come to an end and as I headed out of my nice hotel and into a warm morning I thought about how pleasant my brief stay had been. However, it was time to go into the already warm air, 16 degrees at 7am. I walked down to the station and found my way onto the correct train, but as the train was about to pull out any second I jumped on to the first available car and took a seat. Turned out I was in the reserved car. Of course the conductor came along and wanted to see my ticket, and he told me that I was in the wrong car. I knew that, but in these situations it's usually best to play the ignorance card. And smile. A lot. He was a fairly young guy and didn't quite know what to do with me, but he had to tell me to move 5 cars down the train because in his mind that was the only option. The ride was only 10 minutes long and we were just about at my destination so I wasn't going to move very quickly. I said yes, and he bowed and left. By the time I had my gear on the train was slowing for my stop. Besides, I was the only one in the reserve car, so not like there was a seating conflict. Why am I relaying this gerenally mundain story? It was one of the highlights of the walk today:)
Well, not completely. The walk away from the train station was along a smaller road and up the only hill of the day. Some nice views looking ahead.
Yup, it was another long, hot highway walk. The only good thing about it was the views off across the Inland Sea. This map shows you where I am in the morning and by the early afternoon I was on the right side of the peninsula. You may recall that Annemarie and I came across all those bridges on the train when traveling from the main island to Tokishima to begin our walk. So I have some idea about what lies ahead.
Yes, finally looking back towards the main island. It was very beautiful to look across and to begin to realize where I was. One heck of a long way down the road!!
A fisherman shrine.
The area turned into heavy industrial with a refinery right in front of me. Another walking first for this Henro!
There was also major ship building underway. The type where they build large sectional components and then lock them together once floated. Very impressive stuff! A distance shot because while interested, I wasn't prepared to walk all the way over there and back. Even I have my limits!
I arrived at T54, Enmeiji and it was getting rather toasty by this point, well into the stage. My shirt was covered in salt stains as was my front black bag, and I'd been drinking lots too. At this temple there is apparently a pine tree said to be planted by KD. When the tree dies an new one emerges. That's quite something. Nice temple with good antmosphere. An older gent who was driving the Henro gave me a very nice slip which was gold and a candy, so he's obviously been around the route 100 times. He asked where I was from and liked my answer I guess?
I also read a nice story about the big bell. It seems that thieves seemed to steal this bell regularly. When they did it would ring 'home, home' without anyone touching it. The thieves became scared and always returned it. I can vouch for that because I rang it!
A kind lady on a bike guided me to the transition road to walk onwards to T55. Very nice of her, as I was tiring and another decision seemed to be more than I really needed. On my way I passed through I think the biggest grave yard I've ever seen. Huge.
There were graves going up the hill from the valley in all directions. It was quite the sight and I guess it kicked a tired brian into gear...
Spirits of the dead,
Walking through well marked grave sites,
Flowers left with care.
From there it was a city walk to T55, Nankōbō once a shrine on Ōmishima Island and later moved to Shikoku. It's a temple where one would pray for safety on the water.
I then proceeded into town and went to the train station where there was a TI. I had no idea where my lodging for the night was located and I had to get some directions. The lady in the booth enthusiastically showed me where it was...crap...another kilometre towards the harbour. Nothing for it, so off I went, first to a kombini to get a solid meal and a cold drink and a beer to take with me. I successfully found my place, met my two hosts and was shown around. A fairly basic place, but I could tell by the way the kitchen was maintained that the food would be good. It was:)
I couldn't have a bath for a couple of hours so rather than start my laundry and put on fresh clothes, I stayed in my walking gear, dumped off my pack and headed out to see a hilite I've been looking forward to for some time. First down to the harbour. This is a real working harbour. I looked across to see the amazing series of bridges I referred to earlier...
then headed off to see something a little more to my taste.
Always one to enjoy a good castle, I looked this one up before I left home. This castle is known as one of the Three Castles by the Sea. It was built in 1604 by Tōdō Takatora who rose from a common foot soldier to become a lord. Your typical rags to riches story. He was so good at castles that he's credited with having planned and constructing 20 castles in Japan. Pretty impressive. That's him on the horse.
It comes with its own dogs too!
I think one of the two best castles I've seen on this trip. The other in Kyoto.
Now showered, laundry done and fed I'm feeling more myself and and I'm again looking forward to the road tomorrow. Really, it doesn't take very much to get up again for the next day. It will be an easy day terrain wise, with the exception of the climb to T58. It has a nasty reputation. The next day not so easy. Time now to kick back. I've seen the sights so perhaps some reading, or I could sit and watch my socks dry! The options are amazing at the end of the day:) I wonder how quiet all those motorcyclists who were at dinner are going to be tonight when they come in from drinking? And why are they on my floor with only one toilet to share? Questions. Always questions to sort out as I walk.
Will leave you with one last photo, basically at the core of my thoughts while visiting each temple.
I think John Lennon would approve.
That's your first really hot day, isn't it? You've been on the road for a month, summer is coming, you might have many more before you're through.
ReplyDeleteI'd like to be heading off on an adventurous walk today. Or any walk. Instead I'll be returning stuff to the caterer and settling up with them, and taking library books back, and other end-of-degree clean-up. Sometime this week I'll have to post all my stuff in the library repository, but I'll wait for the video documentation before I try figuring that out.
You'll be on the road again by now. Good luck on the big hill!
Ken
Hi Geoff
ReplyDeleteSounds like it was quite a gruelling day today but your spirits seem in good shape and keeping you going. Yes, go well with the climb today and enjoy the flat before the harder day tomorrow. It must have been gratifying to see familiar territory come into sight - a sense of getting closer to the end. Enjoy that beer.
I'm away for most of the rest of this week so comments may be intermittent. Stay well. Neil