In Transit: Tokishima - Tokyo - Vancouver, 23

Henro Reflections 

I purposefully chose not to write this entry before leaving Shokuko. I'm presently sitting in Narita Airport waiting for my flight home with time to burn and the duty free sucks, so thought I'd begin writing now and finish when I'm finished, likely from Canada. I've been thinking about this subject for the past several days and here and there along the latter parts of the Henro. I've tried to capture many of the things I've observed and experienced along the way. There were so many! I promised myself several years ago when I started my first Camino to try and be open and honest in my journal posts. For the most part I think I've been successful on the Henro and I've tried really hard to be true to the spirit of the walk. At least from my personal perspective:)  

Of course you can't write about all your experiences or impressions, otherwise there'd be little time left to enjoy the many elements of the actual walks and the people met along the trail. Those experiences can be saved for story telling at home, but I'm sure I'll still hear, "I read about that on your blog". That's very fair. It's difficult to remember everything I write because at the end of the day when I finally sit down on the floor to begin a post I often want to simply have a cold beer, kick back and catch a nap! That's the other thing about trying to stay in the moment. I promised myself that I'd write every day in an effort to convey the emotions, the impressions, the spirituality and the physicality of the walk while it was so very fresh, so rich. Perhaps I've managed this? No matter, I carry it inside.

Now completed, the emotions still sit just below the surface. I can't go on a walk of this magnitude and not find what I've found this time. It's happened for me before and I gladly welcome it. The further I walk, the deeper the experience becomes. It takes time for things to surface, for your mind to open. From my own perspective if that element wasn't there or I couldn't find it, a very key component of the experience would be missing. If I hadn't found that unique place so often on these walks then I guess I'd likely not know it was missing. Interesting concept. I guess that for me it would then just be a walk, no doubt a very interesting experience. But knowing that if I walk far enough and get deeply into the walking experience that I'll find something quiet special makes it all worthwell. I don't think I met too many Henro this spring who weren't having something of the experience I was immersed in. That said, I was only in a position to speak about it with just a few pilgrims. The language gap was often an issue, but there were times when even that didn't get in the way of understanding. You can see it in the eyes if you take the time to look. You hear it in the tone of their voice and observe how they carry themselves. Perhaps difficult to explain, it's more of a feeling, an observation.

 

It's difficult to give the Henro the proper review it deserves because from my foreign eyes it's so different than perhaps it is from the eyes off a Japanese national. Of course I can only reflect from my eyes, and I thought that I'd dwell a little on the things I enjoyed and those that I'll miss...and perhaps a few things I won't:)

 

Clearly I'm going to miss a few certain individuals who made my Henro special and better than it might have been. Annemarie of course...though with a little luck I'm going to see her very soon:) She helped make the beginning of the journey from early days at home right through to just after Kochi a very special experience with lots of fun and growth along the way. Kristine, Tutsuka and my Japanese pal with the dark brown Henro hat made each day we connected just that much better. Kristine because we could communicate so easily. She was very patient when I was desperate to speak English! A very interesting, intelligent person and we spoke about many things. The sorts of conversations one has on long walks...good conversations without distraction. And interestingly she opened her mind to watching the movie The Way on Netflix in spite of its apparently bad reviews!! It was fun to watch as she discovered the depths of her freedom after years of working. Thanks for your friendship!  

 

 

I also enjoyed spending some time with Dara and Liam at The Craic Irish pub and elsewhere including our end of Henro celebration. Of the people I met, most were lovely, sharing a most personal experience. 

 

Then there were the special Shokuko residents who went well out of their way to help whenever it seemed like I needed help. Sometimes even when I didn't! The gifts of directions, phone calls, explanations, finding me a bed for the night and many other forms of osettai described in my journal entries made such a difference to my experience. And they do this day after day during the walking season without looking for much more than a simple connection. Something to take home with me, the memories of the great uplift in spirits when help or connection was made during the long days.

The evening spent with Yoco and Mochi.

 

The kids in their yellow and green hats.

 

There are many other experiences I appreciated and I'll miss. Launching myself into the very long, dark highway tunnels.

 

 It's hard to explain, but it became a bit of a rush as did challenging myself to face my fear of heights. The life long fear diminishing dramatically over the past 3 years. Almost welcomed and sought out now. Who'd have thought?

 

The ocean side walks were brilliant!

 

The nice huts along the trail. Sometimes containing osettai:)

 

The cool dragon heads!

 

The heated toilet seats...they were a nice surprise! A big shock returning home!

The blossoms and many flowers along the path. Absolutely stunning!

 

The beautifully presented meals. The fresh raw fish and various miso soups personal favourites.

 

Staying at the temples. Usually a very good experience. 

 

I won't soon forget the snow on the cedar bows at T12 and the early morning chanting in the temples.

 

The warming then later hot weather, knowing that at home it was still so darn cold and wet. The wet days I had were quite manageable, particularly once I had my super amazing light, breathable wet pants:). I now have three new jackets to go with them!

Practicing my photography daily with such a wide range of spectacular landscapes, temples and people. Supreme pleasure! I'm looking forward to seeing what I really have when I return home and work my way through the images looking for those few special moments. Something that with a brief glance will mentally pull me back to Shikoku.

 

Though tired of the kombini by the end, they were most welcome those nights when staying in a lonely business hotel or needing sustenance while on the road. They also acted as great reference points for locating my position in the guide book. Speaking of which, it was the best guidebook I've ever used. I couldn't have managed without it.

 

The Meiji chocolate bars! The hot baths and onsen at the end of the days walk followed by a cold shower. Aquarius to help me to stay hydrated as I walked. Soyjoy! The courtesy and politeness of the Japanese people. Special memories of the times the minshuku and ryokan hosts stood waving until we were out of sight. 

 

The millions of croaking frogs in the rice patties and the beautiful tall birds busily hunting them.

 

Early morning arrivals at the temples when they were empty.

 

All alone in the bamboo forests and deep places in the subtropical jungle. The huge cedar forests. Walking the ridge lines again and again. The flowering trees on the steep descents...too focused to notice them on the climbs.

 

The ancient stones on the path and moss covered markers. 

 

The many messages, emails and blog comments with words of encouragement and wisdom from family and friends. Thank you for those.

Turning the page, there were a few things I won't miss. In particular the huge trucks sending up masses of spray as they passed very close on rainy days. The endless stairs...endless....tens of thousands of stairs, stairs, stairs. 

 

The miles and miles of hard roads...I'll miss my boots! I was pretty tired of wearing small slip on sandals that were always too small and nearly took my life several times while going down stairs! A different pair in the toilets. TV was completely forgettable. I could have done without the snakes, though they were fascinating to watch.

 

This is an incomplete list of some of my favorite things and a few of my less favorite. I've arrived in Vancouver and I'm taking a couple of days here. I wasn't ready for the reverse culture shock I found on my arrival yesterday! A short walk downtown. The people are so big, the streets seem chaotic after the orderly Japanese towns and there are street people downtown everywhere I looked. A completely different society with its problems very visible. How is this possible in a country as wealthy as Canada?

Annemarie tells me that since she's been home she is often asked if we will be making a presentation about this walk. The simple answer is not likely. I have spent some 80-90 hours these past two months writing and posting about our journey together and my own solo walk. The thought of spending many more hours preparing a presentation when so much energy has already been given to my blog journal makes the idea less appealing. Soon it will be time to think about new travels and next things to experience. The next adventure, it's already planned and the one after that is in the hopper that is my mind:)

 

Tokishima Morning

Homeward Bound

 

Homeward bound today

Shokuko's coming home too

A memory held

 

Stage 42: Hiketa - Bando (Tokishima), T3-1, 22 kms, Sun, 27

Full Circle

Early morning in Hiketa as I sat at my window and watched the sun rise across the river flowing just below me. Much has happened and I know time is needed to absorb it all, but I know too that I have to get up and prepare for one last day on the road. One last precious day. I'm pleased with my efforts to find a place to stay after T88 so that I could have today. No pressure or need to reach Temple 88. Just time to coast to the finish and complete the circle I set out to walk so many weeks ago. Completing the circle holds special meaning for me. Annemarie and I discovered that last fall when we completed a circle of sorts and walked into St. John Pied de Port three years after we walked out to begin our first Camino. It was a special moment for us, and I knew it would be again today.

I went down stairs to enjoy a very good breakfast with Roy. We decided to begin the day walking together. As I paid my host and thanked him for a delicious breakfast, all in Japanese I might add, he reached over and took my hand, shook it and I assume congratulated me in Japanese. It was very touching as the Japanese seldom in my experience shake hands with a foreigner in these situations.

We walked through town past the beautiful red buildings this town is famous for. In the past the town was a port well known for its production of soy sauce, sake and marine products. Many of the buildings from that period remain and are in use, just like this red soy sauce warehouse.

 

We set off along the coast with nice views out over the Seto Inland Sea. What a change in the weather from yesterday. My type of weather:)

 

However, eventually we had to head inland through the coastal range and enjoy the last morning climb. I'll strangely miss these steaming sweat sessions that get the blood moving and make me feel so alive. Well, I'll admit sometimes less alive than others. Perhaps I was just feeling nostalgic this morning? Some where along the way Roy stopped for a call of nature, but unaware I continued to climb at my pace. When he didn't show after a time I figured he made the decision to transit in on the alternate route he was considering. No problem. As I've said, together or apart, we all walk our own Henro and I'm happy enough walking alone.

 

 

For days, weeks, I've been hearing noises in the grasses and side areas of the trails. Often it's just lizards and maybe a small bird, but after the snake encounters I've often wondered just how frequently I've passed close by and not known. Today with a bit of time I again heard a sound and stopped just past it to have a closer look. Yup...

 

I wonder how many snakes in the grass there's been, particularly the past month since it really warmed up? Doesn't really bear considering does it. Moving on:)

I climbed to the top of Ōsaka-tōge Pass at about 400m and then began the long steep descent...so much more fun sometimes than the climb. With my sticks it's sometimes feels like skiing down! Feet moving quickly, effortlessly.

 

 

Down to the flatter areas and heading for T3.

 

 

I arrive at T3. Oh, it seems so strange. Last time when Annemarie and I passed this area it was the end of March, cold and damp. The forests were grey and brown after winter and not looking very appealing.  We were running on excitement that day as we forged ahead into the unknown, everything so new. Today it was exactly the opposite. It was sunny and very warm, the temples providing a comfortable place to stop and reflect, to observe. The forests had turned into a subtropical jungle and everything was completely as it should be. 

 

 

I took this very photo on Stage 1. I'll have to compare them...bet this one is warmer, not better, but different. 

Then it was off to T2 walking in the reverse direction. This would be fun! I meant a Japanese Henro quite lost and redirected her onwards to T3. Now that was a switch! Then I met an American family of 4 who were taking a taster walking the first 5 temples today. They had all sorts of questions and at the end the mother said that I appeared quite composed. I thought about that as I walked away and decided that was a pretty good description. 1200 kms on, 46 days after we started and with 42 walking stages under my belt I was feeling pretty composed. I've seen many things on this journey and overcome whatever was placed on the route. We all have.

Temple 2 where we bought our Henro gear. Still a nice staff in the admin building where I again had my book stamped. Much more pleasant than at T1. 

 

The best hand cleansing place on the whole Henro, hands down! I guess no pun intended?

 

 

Roy surprised me at the temple. He'd gone the same route but ended up well behind me and hitched a ride in. We said we'd connect at T1 because he was going to stay with his ride.

 

Ok, just hang on for a while. I'm off to meet 6-8 Henro buddies for a celebratory dinner. I should be back in 4-6 hours and then if I'm up to it, I'll finish this before I try to get some sleep! 

There were 8 for dinner. Everyone a bit tired of eating Japanese so we all agreed on Indian and we had a wonderful meal with great discussions and of course there were a few beers. We all said good night and parted ways. It's always like that. Some to Oz, some to America and three of us back to Canada.

Back to today then a few hours of sleep. A full day tomorrow.

As I walked to T1 there were lots of thoughts and emotions. Perhaps it was becoming clearer that this Henro was finally over? I was going home. Seems almost surreal. But yes, on Tuesday I'll get on a plane and gaining a day I'll arrive in Vancouver the morning of the same day. Funny stuff. 

Temple 1 was pretty much as I remembered it except that there were 5 Henro there that I knew. Most had trained or bused in from elsewhere close to T88, well behind where Roy and I stayed last night. It confirmed my decision to walk in. Such a satisfying walk. 

 

My real Henro photo. This is how I really appeared most days, well except that I often didn't wear the white shirt because it was too hot. Most at the table tonight didn't either.

We had our books stamped again then walked down to the Bando train station for our final trip into Takashima. I found some food, Skyped with Annemarie and then slept for a while before showering and beginning this post. An email from Kristine arrived from T88 where she arrived. I hope there are a few Henro she knows to celebrate with when she arrives in two days. Always a nice touch to the end of the last day.

Now the reflections will begin and I might post a few thoughts tomorrow. After I sleep, eat and shop!

For now, Happy Mother's Day to my Mom. I took this photo for you today.. It was after all Mother's Day here today:)

 

 

Stage 41: Nagano - Hiketa, Temple 88, 15 kms, Rain & Cloud, 24

Temple 88, Magical Moments, Magical Day

It poured all night...all night. I was awake most of it just thinking about the experiences of the past two months. I knew I wouldn't sleep. It didn't matter, energy everywhere. There will be time to sleep when I get home to my hammock, but I didn't want to waste time sleeping. This was just too good.

After breakfast the kind little woman who runs the place took me aside and gave me a big chocolate bar, two hard candies and a bottle of some sort of energy drink. She gave it to me conspiratorially, but I suspect that's just her way with everyone:)  She stood on the street under her nice umbrella waving me out of sight to make sure I walked away in the right direction. I stopped and put on my rain pants. I love my rain pants. I already had on my bright red poncho so I looked pretty good for this day of days. I hoped it would stop raining because I had a decision to make. At the time it seemed to be the biggest decision, a hugely important decision. I decided to walk up to the museum junction where I had to make up my mind...upper way or the lower way?

The walk went from flat to a steady hill climb. The rain let up, my camera came out.

 

 

I arrived at the reservoir where the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon is located. It's a historical museum covering all things Shokuko Henro. Very well done. I walked in and was greeted with food, tea and an exit interview. "Interesting", I thought as I walked through the museum. I believe this is a very old Henro stamp scroll from the 12th century. 

When I retuned to thank her for the hospitality she had my official Certificate of Henro Completion waiting for me together with a 90 minute long DVD and a beautiful pin for the walk, one that I'll happily add to my Camino hat when I return home. Osettai. Second time today.

 

I stood outside weighing up my options...the high way or the lower way? This was the crunch moment. I looked at the higher way covered in clouds and rain and I dearly wanted to go in that direction, up over 774m Mt. Nyotai complete with its monkeys. I like monkeys. I then thought about all the rain there'd been and how slick the steep exposed rock would be to traverse in my smooth bottomed boots, sadly worn to the nubs at the compression points from all the road walking. I knew then that I couldn't go that way, and realizing how much I'd learned on this journey I simply put it away and walked on at peace with the decision. It turned out that the lower way had its climbs and its moments as well.

 

First there were the heavy trucks on this back road grinding past me and choking me with their exhaust as they went by. Eventually, I passed the place they were dumping and after that the walking improved dramatically. I caught up with a couple of Japanese Henro, always a pleasure. They said, "Hi Geoff-San", they all call me that here. It's a very courteous greeting, but they all know me and I like the familiarity. We discussed the weather and I moved on, but peaked back...

 

I discovered that what the tour companies do with the tourist Henro is that at T88 they drop them off about 3 kms from the temple and they walk in together. That's fine, but they unloaded a bus just in front of me so that my solitude was a bit dented. I crossed the road and passed them then moved on. I had a wardrobe change to make and wanted no witnesses.

 

 

Almost there!

 

Then I'm there. I'd stopped ahead of the tour group and stripped off my soaking shirt and gear on the road and put on my white hakui for T88. Then the immense main gate came into view.

 

I went to the secondary temple first and had it to myself which I thought was strange. Some of the sights. This container was full of thousands of walking   Sticks!

 

 

I headed over towards the main temple and found a few people I knew which was a nice surprise. I went into the main temple and paid my respects and said my thank yous for the successful journey. It was a nice moment. I listened to the groups going throu their sutras, a beautiful sound. I'll miss that. 

 

 

The Process completed, it isn't much different than walking into Santiago. People begin to celebrate, receive their formal certificate...he is printing my name with a brush! Very cool, and he adds the date, all in Japanese of course. 

 

We all enjoy our moment. Here's mine.

 

You probably have no idea how many email, message and blog comments I've received to present myself as a formal Henro in a photo. Owen from Melbourne lent me a bit of his gear, so here you go. 

Of course it just wouldn't be the same if I didn't add my own personal flare. I thought about it, then I threw caution to the wind and said to myself, "what the hell, you only go through life once!"

 

At first there was silence, then genuine laughter, then people began taking photos of this Canuck. They came up to me afterwards and showed me their photos, a different view of my process! It was all pretty funny, and I needn't have been concerned about offending anyone. The Japanese generally seem to have a health sense of humour:). They must have with the quality of their tv programming!

We walked down to the other main gate intending to look for lunch. 

 

Owen and his wife bought me lunch, which they called osettai. Unnecessary, but very thoughtful. We caught the bus and they got off at the museum to get their certificates and I continued on alone, but not alone. I was with my local Japanese Henro pals who waved madly as they departed the bus to go to their homes. Eventually there were four of us dropped at the train station. 
 

Two got into one train, again with many goodbyes and much waving. It was great! Then there were two. We caught the same train. My friend from Hiroshima, an older fellow, was on his way to Tokushima for the night then onwards to Koysan to complete his journey before traveling home. We said our goodbyes at my station, which he made sure I didn't miss, and then also waved at the window. A bit melancholy, but I've been there before...just move on. I stopped at a grocery store to buy a cold beer to celebrate and then walked to my minshuku. My host was waiting for me on the street out front as I was last in at 4pm and after a shower I walked down to dinner to find Roy sitting there. A great reunion! We sat and ate and talked and ate until our host tossed us out! Perhaps we will walk together to T1 tomorrow. Yes, one more day of walking, a good solid day of walking. A time to reflect on all my good fortune. Yes, I'll be posting from Tokishima tomorrow...with a cold beer beside me! It's been a perfect day. Yup, I'm tired, but so very satisfied.

 

As I said, magical moments, magical day!