Stage 2: San Sebastián- Zarautz, 23 kms, Cloud, Wind, 15

A Damp Medieval Road

After a rain day (oops, sorry Annemarie...a vacation day) yesterday, we are beginning to feel the jet lag departing and our sleep slowly finding this time zone. I’d like it to find me a bit quicker, but I guess it will arrive when it’s time. 

We are beginning to settle quickly into the Camino process. Up reasonably early this morning and finding our way into a small cafe where we were cheerfully greeted by the proprietor who provided another brief Spanish lesson. A continental breakfast tucked under our belts and we were on our way out of this beautiful town that is San Sebastián in the morning gloom. You see, it was a bit dark this morning with the rain having ended just moments before we stepped outside. At first it looked promising as we walked the length of the strand.

However, before long it looked less and less likely that we were going to see much more than a glimpse of the sun. 

The strand is about 2 kms long and the Saturday morning joggers and walkers were out in force no doubt preparing for yet another feast of pinchos and vino tinto at lunch. Why not?! We were planning to do the same:)

As we climbed out we caught a last glimpse of the city. A lovely city and somewhere we will likely revisit when we eventually spend ‘that winter in SE Spain’ that’s been on the drafting table for a while now. Perhaps a time to think about possibly writing that book that’s been brewing in the back of my mind for a while now. Or maybe just time to travel gently and finally really try to learn Spanish.

 “Snap out of the jet lag Geoff”! The walk today...

Initially the walking was pretty nice once we had the first climb of the day behind us. Both of us in the mood to walk.

Actually it was a real joy, well except for the sleeping sun. At least the rain held off though we did put on our pack covers and rain pants at the start of the day. 

The more we climbed the more cloudy it became. Often the cloud would ebb and we’d find ourselves in a clear section for a time, but inevitably it would roll back in or we’d walk up into more of it. Donda esta sol? 

From time to time we could see rain ahead of us, but fortunately we seemed to stay in our bubble, though the way was in many places pretty muddy. Something common to this route by all reports.

The locals proved to be pretty friendly. The dogs barked as we passed, but made no aggressive efforts and the cows did what cows usually do as did the sheep.

In all seriousness though, I have to say the local folks so far have been wonderful. Most exchange greetings as we pass and I’ve heard more “Buen Camino’s” from the locals in just two days than I heard in 4 weeks on the Frances last year. In other words, this has so far been a pretty good and interactive Camino experience. The locals don’t see enough pilgrims to become jaded as most locals have on the route just south of here. A nice surprise. So far very little of the course tagging and “so and so was here” tagging written on everything as it is on the Frances. What I’ve seen is simple stuff and very refreshing!

As per the title of today’s post, at some point today we found ourselves walking what is apparently one of the best preserved medieval roads in Spain. Parts of it were in excellent repair,

while other sections need a helping hand to get back to formal glories.

Old wheel grooves in the softer sandstone. Something like Pompeii. Except not as old, maybe 900/1000 years old?

 It was pretty interesting to see the state of this road, though walking it when wet required care! 

We stopped in Orio for lunch, a nice fishing village still engaged in this industry. The pinchos were excellent!

We saw about 8-10 other pilgrims today and left 5 of them earring and drinking in the bar as we set off for the last climb of the day. So far not very much traffic evident, but it’s only been two days and I’m sure there are others around. 

Eventually we found our next town with my next bed. Can’t wait! The longest beach in Basque Spain and no sun to enjoy it with. Apparently it’s end to end bodies in the summer and loads of surfing off season. 

Not a long stage, but enough for today with lots of ups and downs. Lovely walking! Tomorrow we will walk about the same distance, but we have choices to make as to which route or variant to take.