Sunday, May 26, 2019

Stage 3: Zarautz - Deba, 27 kms, rain, drizzle, cloud. 16

Walking The Flysch



Prior to leaving home I suggested that except for figuring out the coastal GR variants that I hadn’t looked at the route at all. This was the truth. We have no intention of walking to Santiago on this journey, but we have loads of interest in walking some of the beautiful coastal options. We know just how special this can be from our time walking the Camino Dos Faros in 2016, to the north of Santiago. 

Before we reached the Flysch we had to walk along the coast to Zumaia where the route began. Along the way we met the usual road hogs taking up room, but managed to find our way past, though these sheep seemed to have a mind of their own, making both the Shepard and his dog a bit cranky. You can see it on the Shepard’s face though his greeting to me was very cordial.

It started raining heavily before we reached the Flysch or I would have been able to take a brilliant photo of the town from high above. Again the weather app was wrong as we were supposed to have sun today. Well we did. It arrived briefly after we finished walking 7 hours later! However, we did see these ladies and also the men training for a rowing sport apparently taken very seriously here. Their coaches in the zodiac getting quite animated, but not near as vocal as the cox person.

We chatted with a nice local couple before heading off on the Flysch and asked if it was ok to walk it when it had been rain8ng heavily. They seem sped to think so though they said to expect mud. They were correct. There was lots of it, but all worthwhile for this unique experience. The geology of this area is quite amazing with the 50 million year old strata folded vertically. With the wind and the ocean effect it has left a quite spectacular coastline in this part of Spain. 





The mud at times was pretty insane. The type that sticks to your boots.



Loads of climbing today. Over headlands and along cliff tops. Amazing stuff! We found that it seemed to be raining heavily up against the mountains to our south, but at this point we just experienced bands of mist as the clouds headed inland. 



The internet speed here is horrible, so will just upload a bit more and head for dinner after a long day. More pilgrims spotted today, but they are mostly sticking to the main route. Nice for us. We met a group of Irish friends from Galloway and a fellow from Melbourne. Nice interactions. All staying in the same place tonight. Also saw the first real wild flowers today!
















Home tonight. We finished, walked into town, into a bar and had a beer and a pincho before we headed to our digs! 



So that’s it from here tonight. Lots of wildlife...the usual dogs, cows in our way, sheep crossings and donkeys. A good day, now time to eat a bunch and relax! 

5 comments:

  1. The last photo--that's not where you're staying tonight, is it? Quite rustic!

    I was wondering, from all the muddy footprints, if you were meeting other walkers, but you answered that question for me. I agree, the geology there is fascinating, although of course I'm not an expert in such things.

    We had rain--and wind and hail--here yesterday, the first substantial rain in ages, by which I mean last summer. We had just planted the garden at the allotment. I think the force of the downpour will have washed the carrots away; Christine disagrees. There's only one way to find out!

    ¡Buen Camino!

    Ken

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    1. Carrot seeds, I should've said.

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  2. Rain and wind here today as well - must be the season for it ... Alas, no carrots at our place - but the broad beans are coming on. We too are really struck by the interesting geology, and also the greenness of the hillsides - I guess rain does that! The tracks winding across the cliff tops are so evocative - it's great you're enjoying them so much, and your spirits not dampened - even by sticky mud on your boots. Have a great evening.

    Buen camino,
    Neil and Sarah

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  3. Broad beans? Delicious!

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  4. Mom and I would like to record our weather report too and I am sure you will feel better knowing that it was also raining in Victoria most of the day - sometimes quite heavily. I would also add that the Swiftsure Sailing Race was held on Saturday and Sunday which was dampened a bit at the 9 am Saturday starting time by Rain and Fog and no wind! When the 9 am starting gun was fired, every boat at the starting line (about 165 of them) tightened their sails to make maximum speed but unfortunately without wind no one bolted away from the starting line!! The weather conditions did improve as the day progressed and better winds were encountered and I believe all the boats that remained in the race overnight had arrived home safely by late Sunday.
    Great pictures today of the coastline and cliffs along the way. Also nice to note that the sheep showed you a little respect Geoff. Look after each other as you go.

    Cheers and our love. Mom and Dad

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