Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Irun: Sunny, warm 20

Holding Pattern, But Ready!

After the expected long day of travel we arrived safely late yesterday into one of our favourite places in France, Bayonne. After finding our hotel, which was dead easy given it was just across the street from the train station, we went in search of a favourite local restaurant which has yet to disappoint in three visits to this lovely city in Basque France. 

As usual, we weren’t disappointed having decided to treat ourselves to what would be our one opportunity to enjoy a wonderful French meal. For the foodies, Annemarie enjoyed a veal dish while I indulged in a breast of duck with squash and a dark cherry sauce. Dessert was an amazing chocolate something in a glass jar that we shared. Yum! What a pleasant end to a very long day.

We enjoyed a late evening walk back to our room and it felt pretty nice to stretch our legs a little after four flights, a bus ride and a two hour train trip south from Bordeaux. Some 34 hours after leaving home we finally found our beds with some measure of happiness.



This morning we found a nice cafe for small breakfast before heading to the train station for our train south to Hendaye. Yup, tea served as it should be!

It was most nostalgic to watch the pilgrims waiting to catch the small train up to St. Jean Pied de Port to begin the Camino Frances as we had in 2013. It almost made me want to join them and I said so to Annemarie, but she wasn’t too interested. I guess looking back is always nice, but the numbers on the Frances these days have escalated dramatically and the experience is just a bit different now. Besides, I had just recently crossed it only 6 months ago. So it was onwards to Spain. We rode to the end of the line at the Spanish border and after saying our goodbyes to France with its wonderful food, we  walking across the bridge and into Irun. 
Very nice road markers in this part of Spain!

Phone set up, banking sorted and food acquired, we looked for a bar for a quick lunch and then began to walk out along the path of the Camino Norte at about 13:00. We were exhausted after just 2 kms and stopped for refreshments at the first bar we spotted. After all, I t’s important to be gentle with oneself during the first few days on Camino.

Actually, we’d made the decision to stay in a small casa rural (accommodation in a rural environment) just outside Irun along the Norte where we could enjoy a non city start to our Camino experience tomorrow morning. Something a little different this time. Our two lovely hosts Fatima and Paxti gave us a quick lesson in the Basque language, a very ancient tongue and so different from Spanish. I brought a bit of information to help on this front, knowing that I wouldn’t have a hope in hell learning to speak it. Hopefully it will help Annemarie. 

A very nice place to hang out this afternoon. We have a nice patio just off our room as well. Yes, very comfy indeed.

Tonight we will wander down to the fortified local town of Hondarribia for a look see and to find dinner. 

Tomorrow we climb.

5 comments:

  1. Congrats on arriving in España! At first I thought you walked from Bayonne to Irun, which I'm sure can be done, but the train would be a lot less tiring!

    Do you carry a cheap pay-as-you-go phone or do you swap the SIM on your regular phone?

    Cheers,

    Ken

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    1. I swap SIM cards. Ridiculously inexpensive in Spain. 7G, 400 phone minutes each month, all for about $27. Quite amazing. I wanted coverage as carrying a route app which is necessary for helping to find the many variants on this route. Also if we decide to walk the Primativo, will need access to info as not carrying a guide for the route.

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  2. Bayonne - what a nice way to engage and wind into the Camino vibe after such a long journey! There's just nothing like Europe and its food. Your casa rural looks like a gentle starting place too. Hope your first full day walking tomorrow is as delightful as your beginning (even if there is a climb!).

    Buen camino,
    Neil and Sarah

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  3. PS. Seeing you sitting under that plane tree with a couple of cool ales, the light dappling in the leaves, makes us think we should report on Pat - the plane tree we planted in our back courtyard after the Camino Frances. He is losing leaves at pace at the moment as autumn flows into winter here. These trees are such characteristic companions of pilgrims in Spain. We love them. N and S

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  4. Yes, Neil and Sarah, the food, I forgot to mention the food. And the beer! I am likely to forget about my diet this evening as a result.

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