Stage 16: Niñons - Ponteceso, 27 kms, sunny, 26

An Interesting Trail

We started a little earlier this morning, with our taxi driver and his extremely comfy car picking us up just before 8. You don't want to be walking these trails in the dark, too difficult to find the pale green small markers and frankly, too dangerous. I'll admit I was reluctant to remove my body from the comfort of that Audi front seat, but I was getting looks from both the driver and Annemarie! So I of course immediately leapt out of the car, of course.

The main theme today, aside from the stunning coastal beauty and the many killer climbs, was the trail. Or lack there of. Yesterday the trail was fairly well cleared...not today. Sheesh! Often there didn't seem to be much trail at all. You have to look really close!

No wonder the advertisements we saw on line for small group walking tours, bags sent ahead, didn't include stages 1 or 2. Makes more sense now...hmmmm? It was cloudy at the start, so this is what I saw of the sunrise as we started.

We started off along the first headland. Really beautiful along the coast in the early morning light. 

We came across this cruz which was the first of several today. I'm thinking that these crosses are there to remember the tragidies that have occurred along this coast for many years. As I said earlier, this is referred to as the Costa de Morte, the Coast of Death. As you might have noticed in the pictures, there are reefs all along here that have been taking ships and those who sail aboard them for centuries, and still even today. This trail was originally constructed to allow the folks in the various coastal villages to go back and forth, but it was also used by survivors to find their way to safety. Much like the West Coast trail on Vancouver Island.

After a long scramble we passed over the summit of the first headland and in front of us was a beautiful fiord like setting.

It was really quite nice to look at, walking, not so much!

We stopped for a coffee break, no coffee available, sound familiar Rob? But we had an orange on the beach which was pretty nice.

All too soon, it was time to see what the next peninsula had to offer. It was harder.

We slugged our way through head high ferns, thick bush and continuous hardy gorse plants with very sharp thorns. Seriously, there is a trail there.

I remember Neil telling me that he wore high gators walking in the bush for the same reason, but unfortunately my Camino gators are short. As a result, my legs look like I've been enjoying acupuncture treatments all week! I could show pictures, but I'm afraid it's not for the faint of heart. 

Anyway, lots of up and down again today with wonderful views!! The faro we passed yesterday is on the far point.

The going was indeed difficult and I must say, Annemarie is one tough cookie to keep slogging along through the first 12 kms. That's her down in the bush on a tough climb.

At one point I heard her call me from about 20 metres behind. I nipped back to find her looking a little distressed, flat on her back on the side of a steep part of the trail. We laughed later about the TV commercial, "I've fallen and I can't get up". However, at the time she was all twisted in with her poles. We got her standing again, brushed her off, had a good chuckle and carried on...sorry, no photo. Somethings are simply better not recorded. Annemarie is fine, and the shower has washed off all the dirt...just an elbow bruise.

After a long climb we lost the trail. Yup, just up and disappeared on us. We searched without success. The bush was just too thick to even try and walk through.

I found an old track and we dead reckoned our way across the peninsula until we happily bumped into a small country road. Two happy wanderers! We'd had enough of forcing our way through and didn't it just feel wonderful to walk down a simple road! 

Now this feels more like a Camino! 

We walked until we found the small hamlet of Corme where I confirmed directions with a woman who was hanging the laundry. She looked at me warily, then in response to my exceptional Spanish she smiled (at least she didn't laugh) and pointed down the road assuring us that 2 kms would take us down to the coast where we hoped to cut the trail as it worked its way back along the coast from the end of the long peninsula. We also met some new friends!

We stopped along the way to nibble some of the food we carried and with confirmation from another local we again found the trail. Things again started out pretty nicely,

and shortly after we had congratulated ourselves...

of course the trail got a little silly again. By now I was getting scratches on my scratches! For the record, Annemarie faired better, she has two pairs of pants and wore a pair today. I have only one pair and saved them for possible dinner wear tonight. Bad decision.

A very special moment was to again see the shell harvesters working on the rocks below us at low tide. Endless fun to watch them run away from the boomers and then return between wave sets to harvest!

Looking ahead to the next happy scramble up to the cliffs above. 

A draining slog up...Annemarie fought all the way!

Then happily a descent and at the bottom,

finally a bar!!! A cold drink and we were off again.

Seven kilometres to go! Then we found the dunes that we'd read about...

We had to cross these in the heat of the day! Rob, such albedo!! 

Stay back Annemarie! I must stink seriously by now! Ha, you do too? 

A nice walk through a salt marsh on a dyke....

We had a sheep encounter, but they were under 3 metres tall, so no concern.

And we were in. We cross this bridge tomorrow morning on our way out.

Robbie, look what I scored today! No verde, but this was pretty good. Actually had a double shot!

Legs a mess.

Don't get the idea that we aren't enjoying ourselves. I just asked Annemarie if today was a good day and she gave me a resounding uh-huh. When Rob said that it was like money in the bank!! 

Raining now, but supposed to stop and that will leave us with a nice walk tomorrow with options to adjust if the weather sucks. 

Buen hiko!  Oh and as a record...8 friggen hours to walk 27 kms. Must be a record slowest walk!