Day 10: Gubbio, Sunny, 25°

Bella Gubbio!!

A lovely day off to lick my wounds, catch up with the world and to wander this beautiful medieval city. I was laying in bed early this morning reading about the history of this city. It goes back a very long way and plays out like most of northern and central Italy. Invasions, conflicts, spiritual/artistic awakenings, modernization and finally coming together with other regions and city states to help form modern day Italy. 

To help understand where the city is located, it’s just south of Siena and of course further east. Both cities are about 14 walking stages from Rome. Very different routes with different cultures and definitely different topography. My legs can attest to the latter😂

I was in no hurry this morning, and I enjoyed two cups of tea before getting myself sorted out and off to see town. I was also able to figure out why all the banners are hanging from the buildings and homes. 

Every year on May 15th the city goes a bit mad (apparently something it’s known for) and celebrates the death of St Ubaldo in 1160. Like Siena the city is broken up into different neighbourhoods (here there are three). The three neighbourhoods (dressed in yellow, blue or black) each put forward a team of 12 men who madly run through the city streets carrying a 600+lb wooden candle. They don’t just race through the streets like the 12 neighbourhoods in Siena do, they also race to the top of Mount Ignio behind the city. It’s appropriately called the “Race of the Candles” and it was held just days ago. I missed all the fun, but I get to see the colour! Essentially like all these events it’s basically a great excuse for a street party! Everyone dresses up in medieval costumes. 

These are replicas of the candles. The much larger originals are stored in one of the major churches.
They race to the monastery above the city. I have it on good authority that there is a small gondola that runs up there! A crazy insane thing to do? But as I said this city has a reputation to live up to. 

Just one of the things that adds colour to these medieval cities. Pamplona has its bulls, Siena it’s horse race, Venice it’s decorated boats and there are two other cities whose names escape me that hold annual tomato and orange throwing fights (think snow ball fights). Well, Gubbio has its mad candle dash!

You can also become an honorary mad person in this town by running around this fountain three times and then splashing water from the fountain on to yourself. Apparently there is a certificate issued for performing this feat. I didn’t attempt it given it’s already well known that anyone who walks long distance is already considered a bit mad.😎

St. Francis is also known to have tamed a wolf here who was terrorizing the citizens. An agreement was reached with the wolf to stop if the city looked after him the rest of his life. It’s one of the stories that led to his becoming sainted and is depicted in much of the art here. The wolf is beside him. 

The museum is up top on the left. 

The front of the palace now museum. 

This walled city still has towers! 

Tomorrow morning I’ll be leaving town and then crossing the lower mountains probably passing underneath the cloud on the left of this photo. I fully expect it to have moved on by the time I arrive! I’ll be leaving Gubbio early tomorrow and saying goodbye to the route to Assisi/Rome for a few days. It’s a two day walk to Perugia which is the capital of Umbria. I mapped out a route and I hope it works out ok. Guess I’ll find out. 

Inside the museum are a series of bronze tablets that are like the more famous Rosetta Stone. They contain three languages, two of which are still and a third used by the ancients. It’s made it possible for scholars to read the ancient Umbrian text. I found this particularly interesting. 


That’s a monetary cut into the cliff. 

A few more pictures of this still very livable city. 

Not too many church visits so far! 



Pretty cute Vespa!

All my clothes have been washed and hung to dry. I have hard boiled some eggs for the walk tomorrow and I have filled my water system. I don’t think there are too many places on my planned route to stop for refreshment, but I’ll have another look at Google Maps. I believe tomorrow will be one of my longest stages on this walk and with the climbs I’m sure it will feel longer😉 I am looking forward to it as I always like to plan a stage or two and then see how well they work out. 

I’m planning to make a good pasta dinner tonight and I have food for breakfast as well. Then there’s the wine to finish up too! 🍷

This video is from my short walk up and down through town today with a few additional photos. Enjoy!