Day 58: Stage 46: San Gimignano, 15 km, Cloud & Rain, 17°

Chianti Classico Central! 

I’m sitting safely at my destination, a little wet after a few wet moments during this stage. I’ve found myself a sweet little taverna where I’ve just finished having a hot chocolate followed by a delicious lunch, and now I’m sipping on a spectacular glass of Chianti Classico! After all, I am in the heart of the Chianti Region, and it is the one month anniversary of my sitting at the top of the Grand Saint Bernard Pass. So I thought I’d celebrate a little! Why not?😂

I had a funny night of sleep. I was comfortable enough in my small bed, but I kept waking up through the night. The rain and wind were relentless, but I was probably excited knowing that the stage today is considered to be one of the top five stages to walk in Toscana. I’m sure that’s what it was, right? Anyway I fell back asleep at 6 o’clock and woke up very suddenly at 7 o’clock after having dreamed about retiring from work. What an odd things for my brain to be focussed on at this time and in this space. Just weird! 

I looked out my window and saw all the Italian guys already heading off overdressed in wet gear and everything else. I looked out the window and it looked pretty good. I quickly dressed and headed out the door without breakfast thinking that I would find a nice little bar in town and get breakfast there. 

And that’s exactly what happened. I was joined by two young German girls from Frankfurt who had started in Lausanne and had stayed at the San Bernard Pass the day after me, on the 31st. As usual their English was pretty good so it was nice to have company for breakfast. They were caring huge packs in the realm of 50 to 60 L, completely full. I figured they’d made it this far and that they must be pretty strong young ladies. Good for them! They did seem to be casting envious glances at my much small pack though.

I had a look around Gambassi Terme on my way through. A pretty little town, and if the weather hadn’t been so questionable yesterday I might’ve walked in and had a good look. But then I’d have missed a great conversation with the Spanish fellow. I didn’t see him at dinner last night, but fortunately we bumped into each other on the way out, shook hands and wish each other a buen Camino. He has quite the adventure in front of him for the next 3 1/2 months. 

There are some Hot Springs here that are quite famous, but I never saw them. That’s ok. I don’t have a swim suit with me!



The sun was poking through from time to time, but there was lots of cloud around. I was just in my T-shirt and shorts and I really hope that the rain would hold off for the short distance I had to walk today. Almost a rest day with lots of domestic stuff to do at the end. 

As I said, I am in the heart of the Chianti wine region of Tuscana. At 8:30 I could’ve stopped for tastings at a number of wineries, but somehow that just didn’t appeal to me. I made a plan to have lunch today accompanied by a fine glass of this wine.

Like so many before me, I find that I love this region. The colours and the play of light across the landscape is something special to behold. Even on cloudy days like today. No wonder so many great artists thrived and worked here. 

Another winery trying to tempt me in! Only 8:30 am🫤

I found Saoirse lots of horses today. I particularly liked this one. I must remember to send her some more videos. I’ll soon be her favourite!😅





There was indeed some up-and-downs today.

I was wishing there were a few grapes available for testing, but no such luck. 



In a far distance on the left of this photo is Gambassi Terme. 



This double strip of cypress trees are well known to those who walk the VF. 

I got a few reactions when I posted a rare selfie the other day, so I thought I’d try again amongst the cypress trees. Still a little beat up, but better scenery behind me this time. (Later: showered and shaved now). 

There’s quite the interest story concerning the church in the distance. I’ll let you read about it for yourself

Inside. I also received my second stamp of the day!!

I came around a corner and in the distance was San Gimignano. Yet another UNESCO world heritage site. There are 15 remaining mediaeval towers in i town, and I understand there were once 72. The towers were built in the 14th and 15th centuries to show the power and affluence of the wealthy families. Apparently they kept a lot of their wealth in their tower. Of course many of these families like the Medicis of Florence were notable bankers. As I understand it, few were as wealthy as the Medici clan. 





I slowly got closer and closer to town. It always amazes me just how long it takes to get in once you see your destination. It’s even more pronounced here with the towns on a distant hilltop.



I stopped in briefly at a wine shop just to check the inventory. Always fun to do!

I was then into the old town. It’s too bad it was so wet today. I pulled on my full raingear about halfway through the stage. I’ve sat in this little restaurant now for about two hours and I’m all dried out which is great. I’ve already bought my ticket to see the duomo and I’ll head back there later this afternoon after many of the tourists have left. It’ll be much more pleasant at that time. I think I’ll also returned to this great little tavern for my dinner tonight. They close their kitchen at 18:00 so I’ll plan to come here for an early meal. The prices are much better than I’ll find at the regular restaurants with all the tourism. 





The church where I have my ticket to is on the right of this photo.





These are some of the frescos in there museum entry area.



I really pretty little mediaeval town, and I can see why it’s on the tourist trail.

The taverna I’m sitting in.

This is my warm-up hot chocolate. It was really yummy!

Then lunch accompanied by a great glass of Chianti Classico.

Tomorrow will be a long day. I think the walk is about 30 km and then I have to find my way into Siena. Its a very beautiful stage with lots of ups and downs but also some really interesting towns to walk through and a beautiful river side pathway. I’ve been looking forward to this stage for a long time.

Sienna waits for me on the horizon. I’ll be there for three nights and two full days tomorrow which is a decent amount of time to see this very special city. I think one of the real highlights of this walk. I’ll do my best to post tomorrow, but I don’t know how late I will be getting in . Things will unfold as they as they do.

Now it’s time to finish this up, go out and see the Duomo and then have an early dinner. I had hoped to walk around without rain, but it’s since started and of course there’s thunder!