Day 40: Stage 34: Piacenza, 23 km, Sun, 29°

Danilo, A Via Francigena Legend!

From my window last night. 

From my other window this morning. 

Before going to bed last night I had to make a decision. Walk the longer path along the north shore of the Po River to Piacenza or take the river transit and then walk into Piacenza along a very unattractive route.  My head told me to take the river path because it was supposed to be a beautiful walk, though 27 km. My heart told me to take the shorter river transit because it had been closed all summer due to the drought causing a significant lowering of the water level in the river. It was just too dangerous and unnavigable for boats to move up and down the river. I have read reports about the ships that were sunk during the second world war were now high and dry. Some of these boats still have live ammunition on board. The worst drought in 70 years in this area of Italy has really impacted the region. I’ve seen the impact as I’ve crossed this region.

In the end there was really little option than to take the river transit. The fellow who operates the small boat transit has been doing this for many years and he’s become a fixture. A legend. Many pilgrims have missed the opportunity to take the boat journey this year because firstly the original boat was stolen earlier this year and secondly, there just wasn’t enough water. 

We called Danilo to find out if he was operating and discovered to our pleasure that he was just starting up again. Just a week ago I had read on the Facebook group page for the Via Francigena that he was still not operating. I posted an update on Facebook and the amount of positive responses my post received indicates the happiness people are feeling to once again be able to look forward to this experience. 

It’s just over 4 km from the ostello to where the boat pick up is located on the river. Because the pick up wasn’t scheduled until 9 AM I had a slower morning and enjoyed staying in bed until after seven! Woo hoo! But then it was time to walk.

And all there were six of us waiting to be picked up. This is Suzanne from Quebec. She started in Canterbury and is bravely taken a long day after day. Her husband doesn’t like to walk so she stays in touch with him and heads off on these walks solo. We enjoyed each other’s company together with Stephen last night at dinner.



Stephan was the last to leave the ostello and arrived with apologies just as the boat was ready to takeoff. I was going to wait and walk down with him, but he tends to dodle in the mornings, and I didn’t want to risk missing the boat ride.

And we were off!

Danilo is certainly a bit of a character! He so clearly enjoys this process and interaction with the Pilgrims. He make sure that he introduced himself to you and is aware of your language and where you’re from.

He was quite animated and clearly delighted to be back doing something he obviously enjoys.





It was beautiful on the river early in the morning. The birds on the shore weren’t flying away from us, and the viewing was great.





We pulled into the small backwater area that Danilo has been forced to use with the water level so low.

We scrambled up the side of a dike with our packs on.  Not an easy task!

Danilo gave us a small spiel in Italian about the famous people who had taken the river crossing. Our guy, Archbishop Sigeric passed here on his way home to Canterbury around 932. About 612 a Celtic priest was in this area establishing churches.

We then went to Danilo’s house where he began a time tested process of stamping our Credentials with his much coveted, massive stamp.

Here he is taking me through the process.

First the stamp is very firmly applied to your credential. There are others on this route who could take a few lessons about applying stamps to credentials, let me tell you!😂🙏

He then dates and signs your credential.

The next step is to record your personal information in his famous binders that are protected with hand carved covers.

He has been recording the names of pilgrims passing his way for many years, and has the many volumes to prove it. An incredible dedication and support to the pilgrim process. That’s why it was so important to come this way. What a lovely, joyful man. 

From there the walk went completely downhill. I had prepared myself based on what I had read for the rest of the stage to become progressively ugly. Frankly, it was bloody awful!

It started OK, along the top of the dike. I took a shortcut from there across a farmer’s field.

From there the walk progressed on just pavement, with the traffic becoming increasingly heavy and some drivers carelessly forcing me off the road. I threatened a few of them with the sharp points on my sticks coming quite close to paint on their cars. Fortunately, neither the drivers nor the walker touched each other, but at times it was very close. Of course my pictures don’t show that because who can snap a picture when a car is running you off the road. My pictures were taken when they were nice big gaps in the traffic and I felt safe taking a photograph.

There were what appeared to be nice looking churches along the way, but none of them were open.

I must say there were many courteous drivers and even a few truck drivers who pulled well around me, and I usually waved to them in appreciation. The main problem was that I often didn’t know until the last minute who was going to be courteous and who is going to be an ass!

This was amazing! If nothing else in my photographs tells you anything about the drought, this should. This is one of the major tributaries of the Po. There was zero water in the channel. Zero. My map shows it full of water as does Google maps.

Prepping to cross the river.



This is looking up stream along the very dry river from my earlier photograph. The pylons of the bridge I’m crossing have massive amounts of wood and debris piled up against them from a time when there was much more water coming down stream. I watched today as tractors turned under their tomato plants. I assume that the production yield was not high enough to make it worthwhile harvesting.

Speaking of harvesting, this massive corn harvester rolled across the bridge as I was crossing. Another passed me today on one of the smaller roads and I had to literally step down into the ditch so they could get by me. They are huge!

It was miles of terrible walking into the centre of town and I eventually abandon the VF and cut into city streets where I was pleasantly surprised by just how beautiful the city is. This picture isn’t that beautiful part, it’s what I left.

This is what I stepped into.

As my daughter Erin would say, this city has a really pleasant vibe.









Okay, I need to get this finished up and posted. I’ve still a beer to drink and I want to wander the streets of the city further and have a look inside the cathedral as well. Then I have to find a place to have dinner, but I did find a really nice lunch in a great little sandwich shop just off the main square. The fellows running the place all spoke a little English and were just really happy with what they were doing and it showed. This was fresh sliced ham, fresh mozzarella cheese and anchovies served in a beautiful fresh soft bun. It was just the thing after that grind into town!

Tomorrow’s a long stage, some 32 km. I have now left Lombardi and have arrived into the region of Emilia-Romagna. There’s two more flat stages until the climbing begins into the Apennine range. I’ll be taking a short break before I get into the mountains to do a little touring. More about that in the coming days. That’s it from here for today. In case you missed it I posted yesterday‘s stage just prior to writing this blog post. You wouldn’t want to miss anything, right? Best to everyone! Oh, Annemarie is walking in the rain and mud in Ireland. It’s a good thing she actually likes the rain over the heat! I wouldn’t trade her for anything!😎