I woke feeling full of energy this morning. It’s not a long haul to Los Arcos so we took our time this morning over a light breakfast. There have been some amazing sunsets this week out the backside of our house. This one from last night. I think it kind of adds to the virtual camino experience!
During the slow start this morning I looked back at both posts and read about our walk into Los Arcos, the Arches. Food for thought as we walked this morning. In 2013 it was a hot walking day, around 26-28 and I remember walking shade to shade whenever it was possible. Not easily done on this largely open piece of road.
Walking this section is classic camino in the best sort of way. I love finding steep climbs and challenging descents, but this stuff...the long rolling hills, sweeping vistas on warm sunny days and chance encounters with others to share friendly banter and conversation. This is the stuff of legendary distance walking and a big piece of what has kept me returning these past 7 years. As I write this I can feel the pull, the yearning to be there, sun on my face, the trail slowly passing by under my boots with a new discovery around each corner. Perhaps difficult to appreciate, but I know a few folks who completely understand and are likely feeling the much same way during this virus lock down. No fears, this will end and we will return. Count on it!
The hay stacks seemed to grow taller as we headed west!
We spent much of the day walking with a young woman from Amsterdam. I can't remember her name, but as we didn't stay in touch, it's probably not too important.
The identical corner. 2013 above, 2018 below.
We took the short cut that wasn't there the first time!
2013.
2018.
What beautiful country to walk across!!
A much quieter process in 2018! We had it all to ourselves a month later than during 2013. Hard to believe. Of course, I'd pay for this later, but that's another story for down the road!
We eventually reached town. Didn't look like much as we entered, but as we reached the centre of town things improved considerably
Actually a very interesting place.
There are so many good memories from Los Arcos. In 2013 I wrote this;
Have been meeting all sorts of interesting folks. Walked with a young woman from Amsterdam today, an Aussie couple yesterday and so on. Just bumped into the Aussie couple coming into Los Arcos and he was limping along on a bum knee...it happens just like that. A moment later and there was the Irish father son unit, so arranged to meet for dinner tonight. Such a social Way!
Of course the Aussie couple were Neil and Sarah. They were sitting at another table having beers while we were enjoying the company of a bunch of others at another table, also with beers. It was late afternoon when I overheard Neil talking about his injured knee and that he couldn't find a knee brace at the pharmacy. He was expressing concerns about the next day. By chance I'd seen some blue ones hanging on the wall in a panaderia. Neil jumped up and indeed found one. The start of a nice friendship was underway. In 2018 on our way into town I stopped at the same store to take a photo to post for Neil,
and here's what happened;
As I’m walking away a lady starts shouting at me and shows me a sign somewhere in said store that says no photos and actually wants me to delete the photo of the front of her store. Her son comes out and I explain to him the memory I want to share. He says it’s ok and that his mother is upset people take her t-shirt labels and reproduce them. Nope, definitely not interested in a t-shirt. It’s obviously been a long season as most albergues and business prepare to close in a week. Then the pickings will be thinner. Mom has still lost it, but we walk on. That said, I get her frustration.
Our accommodation both times. Great owners who washed our laundry for free in 2013, but not in 2018 near the end of the season. I figured that by then they were getting a bit burned out: )
This is the plaza where many of the perigrinos hang out at the end of each day. A great place both times. I'd definitely stay in Los Arcos again.
In 2013 sitting with Adriane and ?
Another special memory here has been posted before, but is worth posting again.
They say the Camino provides and I think today we received proof of this. Annemarie has been suffering (very stoically) with some inflammation in her hands and forearms. It's been painful for her to the point where we asked our host to connect us with a local doctor...she said there would be a fee and to bring our medical details. She told us tyo look for the 'dos bulls'. We looked everywhere but couldn't find the two bulls. I asked a Guardia (policeman) for directions and after he saluted us he personally walked us to the door and went inside to make arrangements with the doctor. When we were finished I asked about the fee and was told that there wouldn't be one. The Officer had told her that we were peregrinos and that was the end of it. There is such regard for the pilgrims along the route by most of the local populous...very heart warming.
Dos bulls...
The church in town is really very good.
We don't have to arrive in Logroño until Monday when we will again meet the group for a Zoom call. So we have two days to cover the 30 kms. Two easy days. There are a couple of towns along the way to choose from. I'm sure something will turn up. I'll leave you with a few more bells from the church in Los Arcos. Something special for all my amigos and amigas who have sat in the plaza here with new friends and acquaintances as we have.
Buen Camino!
No comments:
Post a Comment