Sunday, April 19, 2020

Los Arcos - Our Camp Site10 kms East of Logroño, 20 kms: Sunny with a little wind 13.

A State of Place

We were up and away fairly early this morning with a plan to walk a longer route to the water and then back along the coast and homeward (about 20 kms). Initially our walk was pleasant as the early morning cool slowly woke us. There were only a few folks out so we had the trails largely to ourselves as we'd hoped. The cool morning air was lovely. Warm enough to dress in a couple of thin layers, but the wind had enough of a bite that we also needed our light wind breakers to stay warm. When we reached the beach it was still fairly quiet, but we could see the human tide beginning to flood. As we walked along the shore we noticed the heavy storm clouds to the south covering the United States and we discussed the discord present down there. Seems like well over 4 years now. Annemarie commented that we were witnessing something of a metaphor. The dark storm to the south lingering over America representing the political and covid-19 disarray evident on so many fronts while we walked in the morning sunshine in Canada where covid-19, at least in our province, is reasonably well in hand. Our politicians are generally doing a good job managing during these uncertain, trying times and I salute them. I can't remember the last time I've done that.

As we walked further people began to come out in ever larger numbers. Many not worrying about social distancing. A Sunday mid-morning complacency perhaps as our ‘Covid curve’ stays fairly flat? I hope not. Eventually after reversing direction the situation only became worse. We discussed that perhaps given it’s Sunday, many working folks who are still actually going out to work are less likely to properly social distance. They think they are, but maybe it’s a different reality for those in closer proximity to other workers. Understandable.

Frankly, I began to wish that we had gone elsewhere today, and we changed direction in mid-flow heading away from the water and up through the quiet residential streets of the very well-to-do. However, I was still not quite in a good 'walking place' and I eventually indicated to Annemarie that I was going to plug into my music. I was desperate to sort of disappear. To find that special place within that’s unusually there for me when I walk alone, with music. Perhaps it could be referred to a State of Place? My fellow peregrino Ken could probably speak to this more eloquently. He’s read more about the practice of walking than anyone else I know. Maybe we will speak about this during our next Zoom meeting tomorrow.

Given our walking practice during this time of the virus has been to walk without music in order to talk and to hear the sounds around us including others on the trail and also the birds, this was a significant change. Annemarie knows that I find a different place and pace during these times. Today was no different. I knew that I’d see her at home and besides a bit of space during these times of living closely for weeks on end can be a welcome moment, for both parties!  Just 4 kilometres from home by chance I retreated into the soundtrack from the movie The Way and amazingly the path cleared of people and the flow just kind of arrived. I realized that I'd found my State of Place. A place I can’t explain very well, but I know that I've arrived there when the walking is effortless and my mind is far away, though I still see what's in my field of vision. Don't worry, I'm not loosing it. Not at all. I simply arrived today. I’m finally on Camino. Priceless.

Anyway, onwards to the virtual walk today.

Always up and away early. I like the cool, calm of the early morning followed by what is often a beautiful Spanish sunrise, this one from 2018.

It's about 7 kms to Sansol, the first village of the day. Rolling hills. Nice walking. Of course this medieval town is at the top of one of those hills!

In 2013 as I was climbing up to the town and just about in amongst the buildings,

...I turned to look out behind us. I find most walkers often forget to stop and look at where they've been. Most of us are probably guilty of this, but I make a practice of looking behind me from time to time. Had I not done so I would have missed this sunrise.

It graces my photo wall at home and brings back a very sweet memory whenever I look at it, which is just about daily. Scary...my 2018 shot is almost identical to the one above.

Sansol.

As you pass through Sansol, there is a short descent and then right in front of you is the village of Torres del Rio home to the really quiet nice Templar Inglesia de Santo Sepulcro. It's well marked on my map book, but I've never seen it open and I've yet to enjoy the beauty of its interior. It looks much like the outside of the Templar church/museum in Tolmar, Portugal. Smaller though.



And still many steps to go...



Always look back.



See what you started in 2013 Annemarie!





We are oh so close to the Rioja wine district! Less importantly, I don't remember seeing anything at  the Ermita de Poyo. Anyone?

Tonight we are camping on a high bluff overlooking Logroño just above the Rio de Cornava. That's Logroño in the distance. The small village across the valley on the right is Viana, about 3 kms away and Logroño centro is a further 9 kms on. In 2013 and 2018 we crossed the 30+ kms to Logroño in a single stage as is the general practice, but we had two days to cross this year so we decided to camp part way in an olive grove. The first time I actually camped in an olive grove (without putting up my tent) was in Greece in 1975. It's just as enjoyable today!

The same view in 2013.

The interesting thing we are learning about a virtual camino is that we can carry just about anything we like! This time I'm carrying a 30 kg pack compared to my usual 13.5 kg pack, and I'm not even feeling it! Amazing!! I have a tent, sleeping bag, a thick comfy thermal rest, cooking gear and even a couple of collapsable chairs. I think there's also a fine bottle of excellent Rioja vino tino in there somewhere: )  Just think how beautiful our view will be once the sun sets and the stars all come out to complement the city lights!

Buen Camino!

For our daughter Caitlin, one of the front line nurses at Children’s Hospital in Vancouver. Proud of you!



No comments:

Post a Comment