Day 5 Touring: Kyoto, Rain, wet, wet, wet, 10

Wet Day In Kyoto?, What Does One Do Here On A Wet Day?

That's a good question never having been here before. The first thing you do as you lay in bed listening to the rain pounding down on the roof is to of course talk yourself out of getting up! That managed to work for a while, but eventually you need to get up and find some food. Fortunately that wasn't too hard because there is a small fridge in our room and I knew there was yogurt placed in there last night. Ok, now what? Well, knowing Annemarie like I do, it did eventually required getting up and going out into the rain to see what Kyoto has to offer. Fortunately I found two old collapsible umbrellas at home and we packed them in for just such a day, with the intent that we could give them away when we reach Shikoku. So with rain jackets and water proof boots on, umbrellas and bus passes in hand we set of into the wet, wet grey day. Oooo, my favourite! 

First stop was Kyoto station to top up our breakfast and sort trains for the coming week. We made tentitive plans this morning over tea and yogurt. Today and tomorrow in Kyoto followed by a day trip to Osaka and onwards to Mount Koya with Friday reserved for either a trip to Nara or to stay in Kyoto. The weather the next three days looks much nicer with sun and cloud...and warmer too! After our food top up at the Station we found the information desk and they had two lovely ladies who spoke English...it said so on their sign. We began asking questions and one of them told us that we look health (left unsaid, for old people) which led Annemarie to explain that we were going to walk the Shikoku 88T. Well, before we knew it they were both bowing to us with hands held in the prayer pose, palm to palm, with a request that we pray for them on the Ohenro. Turns out one of the two is from Shikoku and they were very interested in our plans. I think it was the first real connection with what lies ahead. A special moment. 

 

We eventually found our way across the massive train station. It really is massive, like they all seem to be here. More on that in a future post. We found the bus platforms and managed to figure out the bus system, though we must have been nattering a bit as we did so. Sitting on the bus with steamed up windows, I'm sure we were both wondering if this was such a good idea, and if we were going to end up where we had hoped to! A very nice lady changed seats so we could sit together and when I bowed and said thank you, I was rewarded with a full smile and a returned bow. So simple, and connecting. Some how we did get off at the right stop...the electronic sign like the buses have in Holland made it a bit easier and not quite as dramatic as we'd feared. Our destination was the covered 6 block long Nishiki Market which is generally known as Kyoto's Kitchen. There are over 100 businesses most of which cook and serve food like one finds in a street kiosk. Very colourful and lots of fun! Kyoto is well known for it cuisine and you simply walk the six blocks trying samples and eating whatever grabs you.

 

 

 

We also found a really cool chop sticks store! They take their chop sticks very seriously here. There are rules for how you use them which we took the time to learn before leaving home. You can really offend if you don't treat them with respect and use them properly. Each pair of these cost over $1,000! 

 

The chop stick store. Neither of us own a new pair.

 

Some of the food wasn't too attractive, but we are both open to trying most things here. But this...this would be a huge step in the dark! I like cucumbers very much and grow them in my own garden, but they never, never look like this.

 

We eventually took shelter from the rain in a Starbucks and relaxed a little with hot tea. So much of it here, and so soothing. This chain is literally everywhere. Wouldn't surprise me to see Starbucks wagons on the side of the Ohenro trail!! Hmm, maybe a good idea?! While we sat the rain suddenly stoped. We looked at each other and then decided to try to get to the UNESCO designated World Heritage Site, Nino-jo Castle which was the residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu. It was built in 1626 and is apparently one of the finest examples of the early Edo period and Momoyama culture. See, I did pay attention as I walked through the site:)  In 1867 the property was transferred by the 15th Shogun to the Emperor and has been in the Imperial family ever since. Frankly, it's quite stunning.

 

As we approached the gate the officials urged us onwards. We literally ran through the gate and then they shut it. No admittance after 4pm. We'd walked all the way there to get our kilometres in today, 15-17 kms each day to keep our legs and feet prepared. We had no idea that it closed at that time or we might not have gone today. The palace was amazing, with beautiful painted wall panels and sliding doors. No photos allowed inside for some reason, but the outside is quite excellent. 

 

 

 

 

There were also some beautiful formal Japanese gardens on the ground. While they were by no means showing at their best, this being late winter, they nonetheless were very enjoyable.

 

 

 

The cherry blossoms are slowly showing, but I think we are about 2 weeks from really seeing them at their finest. Early April should show beautifully. I wonder what Shikoku will look like then? Guess we will find out.

Tonight we went out for a very unusual meal at a small place we'd heard about called Okonomiyaki Arata. Really a small hole in the wall sort of place, but one needs a reservation to eat there because it's extremely popular with the locals. 

 

We ordered beers and then the house special Okonomiyaki which is a combination of beef, spices, noodles, green onions, garlic served onto a hot plate built right into the table. Hot enough to cook on. Yummy stuff! Frankly, more than half the time I have no idea what I'm eating. I guess ignorance is bliss.

 

Tomorrow we head off to see just a few of the 600+ temples that Kyoto is known for. If time permits I'm planning a dip in the local onsen (public bath houses) to soak out a day of walking and another night on a hard bed. We sure are spoiled in the west! At least where we are staying there is enough floor space to stretch out a little! Annemarie tells me that she will wait for my onsen report at the hotel. I expect this will be the first of many onsen experiences so I may as well jump right in! 

By the way, in case you missed it, the volcano I put into the post yesterday was Mount Fuji. Just in case you were wondering.