This morning began like any other morning. Awake early, trying to stay quiet to not disturb Annemarie...I'm always excited to get up and head off down the trail! Today is not just another stage, it's the core of the Costa da Morte. Unfortunately Annemarie was feeling a bit under the weather with an allergic reaction and made the tough decision to stay behind and take a taxi to Camarinas. So a rest day was in order for one peregrina! I promised her that I would take many photos and videos to share...what a hardship:-)
I headed out the door just after 8:00 as the sun was coming out to play. I can't adequately express how special it is to catch the sunrise each morning when I walk. Magic!
It was difficult making progress in the beginning because the morning was stunning...as you'll soon see. That's Arou on the right.
I turned around and I was greeted by an equally impressive display. AMAZING!!
This rainbow stayed just ahead of me for the next 90 minutes. It was a delight to look up as I walked and because it lasted so long I have a ridiculous number of images. Of course when I was bored with what was in front of me, well, I could turn around and find my smile again. This must be what heaven is like for peregrinos with cameras! 
This went on and on...endless fun!
There were flowers for my mother. I always take pictures of the flowers along the way with her in mind.
This 'fun' continued all the way to the dunas, a steep climb over Monte Bronco. Any way you look at it, you're climbing a high sand dune! With a pack.
The slide down the other side of the dune was amazing fun, even with the rain.
When I reached the bottom the rain was picking up and I decided that it was time to pull out Caesar my new flashy red Altus poncho! It passed its first test with flying colours! It didn't leak. Bigger than my old lime green poncho and much longer, so no rolling up my shorts anymore...a happy moment of confirmation.
Of course I knew what the rainbow was telling me all along. There was rain just ahead. I'd tried to reach the dunas before the rain found me, but no such luck. It swept in off the Atlantic as I climbed.
A photo looking ahead from the top.
Now we come to the crux of the matter...the core of the Costa da Morte. As I mentioned earlier there have been many, many ships run aground along this coast, with many deaths. In 1890 the English navel vessel the Serpent ran up on the rocks where I walked today with the loss of hundreds of lives. A cemetery was established here for those sailors recovered. Seemingly not forgotten today.
Hundreds of cairns have been established along the shore by visitors to the site...it's accessible by car.
Hence the string of light houses constructed along this coast line. As I turned around the headland the next lighthouse was revealed in the distance, some two hours away. 
The walk to the faro was beautiful. The wind howled, but the rain let up. This coast line has reefs everywhere, bringing the water to a boil each time a wave passed over. 
A few photos of this portion...
Looking back down the coast.
Finally there...
View back from where I'd walked today.
I think from the gasps that I gave a group of tourists a heart attack when I stepped off the top of the look out and went straight down the side towards the cliff. I'd seen the small green arrow on the ground, but to none walkers they wouldn't have recognized it for what it was. Good thing I'm so trusting to arrows now! Had they known me, they'd have figured out that I'm not one for cliff walking.
The walk to town was lovely, and quieter. I plugged in some Galicean music and enjoyed the ride.
To the hermitage.
And then in.
Based on the people we have talked to and the literature that we have with us, the first 5 stages is the best part of the Camino Dos Faros. All the posters promoting the walk are based on today's stage. We have talked about next things with the weather suddenly quite variable and have changed our plans accordingly. I'll provide an update on this tomorrow. Time for some well deserved supper!! Pulpo y patatas! Yummm!
I hope Annemarie feels better tomorrow. You both deserve a rest after all the climbing.
ReplyDeleteBut, despite the rain, what a beautiful day of walking! I like the image of the tourists freaking out when you walked towards the edge of the cliff. "¡Ayuda! ¡Un hombre loco!" Little did they know how close to the truth they were . . . . .
I wore my new red Althus poncho this week walking to the university. It doesn't leak, but it's a little sweaty. Oh well--that's not really a surprise: my other one is the same. BTW, I talked to a WestJet gate agent about walking poles, and he said that they're fine as long as the tips aren't razor sharp. Which they're not. You can't imagine how much I'm looking forward to travelling with a backpack as carry-on. Maybe in 2018!
!Buen Camino!
Ken
Ken, I bet you stopped traffic on the way to work!! And what a keener you are, checking with the airline two years before we go. Wow!! Annemarie had an allergic reaction, likely to me. So a rest day or two will help the Benadryl do its thing. Then fingers crossed she should be ok. Hi to Christine. Hope you two have a good weekend!
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