Our morning started early with breakfast provided by the lovely family hosting us. Suzanna is 25 and has pretty good English, is obviously bright and provided help with communicating with her parents.
Off we went in the dark and finding our way was a bit of a challenge, but we did it. First climb of a day of climbs was 7 kms long and we found the sunrise!
Of close softly padded trails...so refreshing our feet almost wept!
Of delightful pueblos that have stood the tests of time...generations, wars, famines and good times.
Buildings crumbling, but still standing, defiantly. They will still stand long after I'm gone.
After breakfast (Rob had 3 cups of heavy duty coffee for those keeping a count) they showed us the old house including the ancient stove built centuries ago and the two firearms from the Napoleonic wars in the late 1800's (on the wall) that they found in the ceiling when that was replaced. Curt, I thought you might enjoy seeing these. 
Today was, simply put...wonderful. There was a nice breeze coming in from the Atlantic, and while we walked the temperature climbed to only 25 before jumping to 30+ later. In fact it was the coldest start we have experienced since the Meseta. Very refreshing.
It was a day of stellar back road walking...
Of many ups.... 
And downs...some so steep that our knees and feet protested vigorously!
Of beautiful landscapes.
A few unusual sightings...
Plus some symbolic and interesting moments...
Cairns lining the rocks and cliffs above us as we plodded up the first climb of the day.
Our rest break at an old church and mill.
A steep medieval wagon trail.
Rob considering a trial long term snooze after a particularly taxing climb!
A milo...milestone from the old 'C' highway.
The division milo at the provincial boarders as we passed into Ourense.
People making an effort.
And then we come to the crux of the story today. Neil, Sarah, Ken, Christine, Annemarie and I came up with a slight variation to a common saying on the Camino Frances..."The Camino provides". As we walked into Quiroga this afternoon dusty, tired, thirsty and hungry...you know, the usual...we sat down at Dino's Bar which was written up elsewhere. The proprietor wouldn't serve us! He simply ignored us and served others who came to eat after us. We were astounded! Never before in countless pueblos over many kilometres walked had I ever received this sort of treatment. Never.
We finally left. As we walked along I was wondering to myself what had happened. As we came into town looking for a place to refresh ourselves on a Sunday I noticed a large gathering in a small park beside the road. We walked into the gathering...200+ motorcyclists at a weekend gathering.
There was an organized bar and food on numerous tables. I asked if it was possible to have a drink and was directed to the bar and told that the food was for the bikers. No sooner did we have a beer in our hand that we were approached and offered food. A fellow walked up to me with several food items and simply put them into my hand and touched me on the shoulder. Another fellow shortly afterwards came over to give me another beer and again the touch on my shoulder.
We put our packs on the grass and sat down and ate our lunch. I figure that word had sort of passed through the group that there were two peregrinos who had joined them for a while and people simply responded in a very generous way. We sat and enjoyed the music playing from the '70's and rested. As usual one of us napped! 
We had needed food and refreshment and had been thinking about a good sit down meal, but the Camino had other ideas. A nice story.
We are now camped out in a very simple family run hotel having a cold beer as their son watches cartoons on a Sunday afternoon. Couldn't be any better!
Rob has decided to shorten his day tomorrow and has made arrangements with the hotel owner to drive him to A Pobra tomorrow where he will wait for me to do all the climbing (what's that all about?) and will then walk the last 13 kms of the 35-38 km day. No problem. A rest day should happen, but as I said yesterday it was hard to arrange. I'm looking forward to the day. I like to climb and there are two high, steep climbs and descents before we meet up. 
Buen Camino!
What an odd experience at the bar, but outweighed by the kindness of the bikers. Good to hear that the Camino is still providing.
ReplyDeleteTomorrow sounds like an arduous day but perhaps the breeze will keep blowing, bringing with it a hint (perhaps) of salt. You'd think the mountains of Galicia would be a little cooler, possibly a little rainier, but then again it's August.
¡Buen Camino!
. . . and once again the verification window presented pictures from Spain. Something odd is happening at Blogger.
ReplyDeleteHi Geoff
ReplyDeleteOnce again - beautiful photos - just so lovely to see the country you're passing through, the spectacular views and ancient villages. It is staggering to hear that story of not being served at all, and we imagine it must have felt pretty unsettling - a nasty experience of disregard and so unusual for this incredibly hospitable country. The story of the bikers is quite moving in contrast - and how lovely to have had the 'antidote' of such a healing experience so quickly afterwards. This route is giving you so much, and must surely be affirming your decision to walk a less travelled way.
We had our biggest walk yesterday - still under 20kms, so there's some hardening up still to come - but it was good to get out there, and our gear is feeling good. We're planning to play truant this morning (Monday) and head down to Pine Island where we walked with you and Annemarie - we want to say 'hello' to red belly black and Eric the echidna before we leave next week. And that place feels a bit like our traditional starting point. It's a beautiful morning here with hints of spring everywhere, unlike for Ken who sounded a bit rueful about the signs of fall.
We hope you go well on the solo climbing tomorrow, and that Rob's shorter day is restorative. We look forward to the next instalment!
Buen camino,
Sarah and Neil