Wow! 18:00 and we just got into our place, showered, washed clothes, rehydrated lots and now writing the blog. While I do all this stuff, this is how Rob amuses himself...
It was a very long 7 kms to the bottom, but eventually we arrived in Puente de Domingo Florez, a workaday town with two tiendas (grocery stores) And a cool old town section burrowed into the slate wall.
We waltzed into the first one as he was just turning on the lights and found yogurt, bananas and apples...a feast! It was about 9AM so of course we did what you do at that time in order to eat alfresco...
Then off onto the trail again and it was warming up...just let me tell you! Looking back to where we had walked. 
He says his feet are tired. What a wuss!
Back to today, well actually last night. After Rob drank most of the vino tinto at dinner last night he was off to sleep and missed an amazing thunder and lightening storm that blew through at 1:30AM. He claims not to have heard a sound. At 6:00 (a sleep in day) the skies erupted again in a similar fashion complete with torrential rains. No way we were walking out in that and we lingered for close to an hour until things outside settled. Then we were up and out the door in the early light. Ominous light in the sky...that's Rob on the road.
A few more sky shots. Obviously there was no morning sunrise today to share. It was cool, yet humid with a drizzle from time to time as we descended into the Rio Sil valley, both of enjoying the coolness of the morning.
Fortunately the bus didn't pull up! From there we walked down to the Dia grocery...these stores have EVERYTHING! Rob was so impressed. We bought Kit Kat bars...three for €1.50 and cheese too. The Camino headed off to the left from the store, but I knew that Rob so needed his coffee...it was approaching 10:00 and we all know how he gets. So I went back into the grocery and asked for directions to a coffee place. Voilà! Geoff's Tours comes through again! Whew! Notice the little cookie too...nothing too good for Rob's coffee break, no detail too small.
Then it was over the river and we entered Galicia! 
All new signage to figure out. Actually some beautiful slate signs as befits Galicia which seems to be located entirely on a bed of slate.
We climbed up above the reservoir as the river has been dammed at this point and the views were stunning...and the drizzle was letting up.
We got a little silly...a double shot?
We followed along the lake for quite a time and the trail was simple yet well set out in most places.
I sure like the panoramic feature on this new camera...now that I've figured it out!
Vineyards all along the river and of course I tasted just a very little as I walked...just a little...honest!
Soon we were arriving in the lovely little town of Pumares where we hear Buen Caminos as we walked through. Very heartening and we hear this again and again. Horn honks from passing cars and folks waving at us. We are a bit of a novelty on this route...something very humbling as you walk along, much like I experienced along the Plata. 
This guy saw my mosquito net on my hat and we became best friends! I've worn it at some point most days as the flies are pretty intense in August...I did suggest that you bring one Rob. Live and learn!
Eventually we found ourselves approaching Sobradelo.
This year I'd also labeled it as a lunch stop if we should find ourselves here at the right time of day. It was lunch time and Rob's feet were tired...again. So we had lunch.
A few of the occupants offered greetings...
It was a town that I'd read a bit about last year and had labeled as one to visit on my cross Spain wander. This year it happened. A 16thC bridge...pride of the city.There are gangs here...living rough.
Not just any lunch...an amazing lunch! So on to the kindness of strangers #1. The lady who hosted us for lunch gave us the menu which we proceeded to try to figure out. She obviously saw us doing this and found a computer and translated the lunch menu into English for us. Very special moment when she gave it to me...a sincere touch of kindness.
Premiero course an excellent soup and a bacon presentation. Bryan, you would have killed for the bacon, something I rarely eat, but this time amazing!
Segundo course...amazing cod and potatoes. We both agree the best cod either of us have ever had!
Then Rob had his second coffee of the half day...a Friday Double Shot! I had my second cup of té verde...perfectly made and presented. All for about $12.
Of course all good things come to an end...we had lingered and doddled far too long. It was out the door and on to the hard road for a gruelling grind towards O Barca...our home for this night. Problem was that the sun had come out in full blaze and the thermometer read 34. Ouch! Well hydrated and fuelled up and we were on our way. I'm just before Entoma we left the hot road and gratefully walked into the semi shade of the chestnut trees...then over a very cool bridge.
and out of town...
And on to a simple, beautiful walking route. 
So nice...
We found our way into the city with the ugliest, hottest, steepest peice of trail possible...they really need to do something about this to encourage happy perigrinos!
Buen Camino!
We walked through the long, long river running stretch of town until we lost the Camino route signs. I had felt uneasy for a while so we looked up the location of our small abode for tonight on Rob's cell phone and sure enough we'd walked well past. We had a heck of a time finding it which brings us to the kindness of strangers #2. I walked into a small fitness place and asked the young guys behind the counter if they could use their computer to help locate the place. They were great and soon we had that sorted out...we were almost there! We arrived to find that the place had phone numbers on the door to call so the owner would come by, but the numbers when dialled were never answered. Back to the fitness place and the fellow called each of the numbers and finally had success. While we waited we both filled up with rehydration drinks as we'd ru out of water some time earlier...did I say it was 34?
The owner, a lovely lady, shows up and apologizes that she had her phone ringer off. Mumble, mumble, mumble. However, a cold, cold...did I say cold? shower and we were revived. Rob has snoozed, again while I write the story of our day. Actually an excellent day with just a bit of problem at the end...but hey, c'est Camino!! We are now heading out for a late dinner to try some of the special wines in this area. Don't wait up for us because tomorrow is a rest day...just 14 kms in order to set up the second week of stages properly. No real way around this. Have a great weekend every one!
Hey Geoff
ReplyDeleteWhat a day you had!! Storms, amazing scenery on the ground and in the clouds, climbs, grinds, bridge crossings, backtrackings, and food... glorious food. As Sarah just said: 'It's about this point on the camino that you start photographing your food.' We get it, the relief of a break from the walking and some kind hospitality for hungry travellers,something to tickle the tastebuds, why wouldn't you capture that in a photo. Besides, that lunch meal really did look good. We loved the photos of the bridges and the scenes from high on the range overlooking the river too. I can tell you, there's a few peregrinos and peregrinas reading this blog who would love to be out there with you two. We notice that the camino signs work in reverse as soon as you get into Galicia - a trap for unwary walkers.
While you two are rambling along the Inveirno we are continuing to train back here in Canberra. We head out each morning fully kitted and walk for just over two hours. Then its back to do the work of the day. You'd be proud of us, Geoff, and hopefully it will have us fit and ready to go when we arrive in Lisbon in just over a week. BTW, we both have those little fly nets so we're ready for anything!!
Have a good day tomorrow. No doubt Rob will appreciate a kinder day mileage wise. You might even appreciate it yourself, though I know you are never happier than when you are out burning off those 30km days.
Buen camino, Neil and Sarah
Hard to believe that you are so close to departing! The next week will fly past, and yet you will feel like it goes all to slow. A strange mix. Something you've waited for, for so long is suddenly upon you. Good for you to get nets, so many flies here! Helps me to keep my sanity. This walk should be added to your list of future Caminos, but don't tell anyone. So good!
DeleteWhat an amazing day, captured in such incredible photographs! I'm glad that the locals are showing such kindness. And the cod--was it fresh or salted? It looks tasty!
ReplyDeleteNeil's right: it's very hot for such long days and good thing that tomorrow is an easy day.
I have so many questions, like when does Rob do his laundry if he's always relaxing after you arrive? And do you carry green tea with you so that you can just order agua caliente when Rob gets his coffee? And when did the arrows change from yellow to blue? Do you watch for either colour as waymarkers?
The big news at home is that our former PM resigned his seat today. So he's no longer an MP. Also, Sarah has sent me her talk on listening to the spirit of place and I'm going to read it this evening. I'm looking forward to that.
¡Buen Camino!
Fresh cod...excellent. There has been green tea all the way...I've just learned to ask for it. The arrows all changed once we walked into Galicia...all types of arrows, dots, wooden signs. Rob told me to tell you that he doesn't sweat...very efficient body. Hence no laundry;-)
DeleteLove the bridges and the cod and potatoes....I grew up on that combination. Still crave it most weeks. That accommodation, was that one of the places I called? Sounds like it turned out okay. Have a blast.
ReplyDeleteYes, you call when they wouldn't respond to emails. A bit disorganized, but it worked out. Staying in a very nice Casa rural tonight. Daughter is home from university in Madrid for summer and has some English, so helping a bit with our Spanish.
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