Stage 11: Chantada - Rodeiro, 26 kms, Sunny 24, but cold and cloudy early.

"Asleep on Walking Feet"

When we arrived yesterday after a long tough end of day to find that we couldn't gain access to our accommodation we were forced to hang out with our gear for about 3 hours. In the bigger scheme of things this wasn't a major moment. However at the end of a walking day time to restore body and mind is almost as important as finding food. So we missed our restorative time to nap or just hang out.

However, we did find food last night at an excellent restaurant! After all it was my anniversary, and just because I couldn't spend it with Annemarie... As my pal David put it, "wrong partner"! Oh well, Rob was great company as we ordered food and a bottle of very good local vino tinto. 

You can almost pick up the nose on this wine through the blog, can't you?! Followed by an excellent plate of calamari and then by a plate of fish.

Even the frites were good...

And then because it was a special occasion we ordered postres (we do most nights)...every night is a special occasion. Oddest cheese cake ever, but somehow it worked! Rob had whiskey over ice cream cake...good choice!

We then went for a walk to settle all this food, we'd been eating on and off since 15:00. We wandered the festival site, which was every street in the downtown core, before heading back to our hostel after 23:00 to get a few hours sleep before walking out again.

Before we departed this morning we ate the picnic breakfast the hostel arranged for us when they found we were leaving early...given also we had been left waiting yesterday. Yogurt, juice and brownies which we took to snack today. Nice touch.

I knew almost immediately that Rob was not himself. True he hadn't had a coffee in two days, but then I'd not had a green tea in three days, so no complaints. But clearly something wasn't right. Anyway, as usual we set off into the dark and passed numerous revellers still out on the street at 6:30! It's been a long time since I made it through a night like that...no kidding. 

We left the lights of the city and turned on our head lights to try and see what route indicators there might be. There were very few. We came to a cross roads in the dark with the arrow suggesting that we continue onwards, but as we wandered into a small hamlet we were approached by 3 or 4 pretty aggressive dogs. I hardly blame them. Here we are, two odd looking guys they don't know with goofy head lamps on top of goofy hats complete with poles and speaking a foreign language. I turned to discuss options with Rob, but he was already 20 metres back down the road and picking up speed. Gee, thanks. I made my apologies and followed...as did the dogs. We finally left them behind and found our way in the dark up an alternate country road and eventually managed to pick up the route again at some point. For a time Rob seemed to be moving pretty good after that!

It wasn't long before I noticed a distinct change in his pace, like he was having trouble getting out of first gear. "I'm weary today". No problem. We were up late after some long stages and we didn't have any down time. These things happen on Camino and we've all been there. 

As we approached  the 2,300' climb up O Faro Mountain I suggested that there was tons of cloud up top and as it wasn't a part of the original Camino route I'd be ok with trying to by-pass the climb. We both liked this decision! 

In my winter research I'd learned that the local Amigos of the Camino had marked a variant route with about half the climbing. So while we looked at my information in a cold early wind and scratched the ear of a nice dog we made the decision to change our planned route. Both of us were ok with the decision. 

 We took more breaks today.

Visited with the locals.

Geoff having fun trying to chat with a very nice local lady who was interested in our journey. Probably understood half of what she said. However, many locals are interested and supportive. 

Caitlin...more pals!

And then we began the climb of the day up to the mills on the high ridge where we connected with the trail coming down off O Faro. 

As we climbed the sun started to come out and it began to warm. We had more challenges with dogs along the way, but nothing like this morning. Even your biscuits wouldn't have helped Ken. 

As I said we found the mills at the top...very impressive up close as we walked the road underneath.

Then after an apple break we headed sharply downhill as several fighter jets buzzed in low overhead. Very cool...no photos. 

 

And then we  were down is the most beautiful country side...Rob told me afterwards that he didn't even see it. Head down, fighting it out to the end. He did great to get in...and as he said, what's the option?

Other perigrinos...they followed us.

Then we arrived. We had some food, washed out clothes and finally napped. This is why this post is late. We both needed a time to recover. Tomorrow should be better. Three more stages and tomorrow we will break the spine on the Invierno as we complete this Camino route and move into the Sabreses for the last two days. I know my way home to Santiago from there...I've seen it all before.

The dos peregrinos rest. Rob has recovered and is joking again...restorative time. So important. Oh, and he had his coffee at 18:00!

 Safe journey Annemarie. See you Saturday!!

Buen Camino!