Stage 9: Logrono to Najera 31 kms 6 hrs, 29C

It's All About the Vines and a Little Poetry

Sit back with a glass of vino tinto, as today we walked across the heart of the Rioja wine district of Spain...one of the very best in Europe and some would claim the world. We started out of Lagrona early this morning at 7:30 so not too early, and wound our way through the still drinking festival folks in the center of town...still having a party at that time of the morning!! Then it was off through a national park, around a lake and onwards into the vines...a steady 1,000 ft climb as we move ever closer to the high Meseda. We started off with some cooling cloud cover which eventually gave way to a very hot walking day, but we managed to chop off about two thirds of the walk before the heat was turned on.  Annemarie is, by the way doing well and had tones of energy today...told me how easy the walk was...I reminded her she was only carrying 3 lbs as I lay gasping on the floor of our room! The drugs she's on would have an athlete kicked out of the Olympics, so no wonder she is feeling so good...maybe she'll share?! Will see what tomorrow brings for her...a shorter walk.

As many know, this walk is frequented by some very devote souls (but they let me have temporary membership any way) and we passed a fence which runs for some distance where folks have made small crosses to remember loved ones lost...it can't help but touch one somewhere down deep no matter your beliefs. There were literally 100's of crosses.

As you might remember, Logrono was celebrating the grape harvest, and I can tell you that the vines are loaded...and the grapes are excellent...not that we tried any...well perhaps a few. Pictures often tell the story better, so scroll on...

Rob, this photo is for you...just close your eyes mate...

As we walked into Najera there is a pilgrim poem on a wall in German and Spanish that is unsigned and has touched many who have walked this way over the years...first a photo of part of the wall then the poem.

I was able to find a translation; 

Dust, mud, sun and rain, 
is the Way of Saint James; 
thousands of pilgrims and more than a thousand years. 

Pilgrim, who calls you?

What dark force brings you here? 
It's not the Way of the Stars, nor the grand cathedrals. 
Neither is it the courage of Navarra, 
or the wine of the people of La Rioja. 
It's not the seafood of Galicia; 
it's not the countryside of Castilla. 

Pilgrim, who calls you? 

What mysterious force attracts you? 
It is not the people of the way or their rural customs. 
Nor is it their history and culture. 
It isn't the cockerel of la Calzada, 
Gaudi's palace, 
nor the castle in Ponferrada. 

Everything you see in passing is a joy; 
and the voice which calls me, 
makes me feel much deeper. 
The force which pulls me, attracts me, 
I cannot explain it. 
Only he above knows why.

Buen Camino...