We must be staying in a nunnery tonight...and we are! After a shorter, but hot, dusty plod through the rolling farm land and yet more grapes, we arrived to discover that we had booked ourselves into this nunnery. The front desk comes complete with two small, formally dressed and very cute nuns! It was difficult to keep a straight face as these lovely ladies directed us to our rooms about three times and the oldest one then walked over and held the door to the elevator for us. It was great! No pressure sales here at this hostel, "pay us any time" (said in Spanish)...and the room is very nice. As we entered Annemarie commented, "don't even have to look for bed bugs here...the nuns will have scrubbed everything"...and spotless it is.
Once we have showers and get our walking clothes washed and hung to dry we plan to go and mind the menu del dia and have a cold beer. We had a great lunch yesterday and then very little after that, and both felt better for it. These last meals are hard on the system when you have to eat and then crawl in to bed right after. So we have again adjusted. Hey Dad look at this regional specialty I had yesterday with my lunch...
Back to today, started with a long steep climb which no one looks forward to right out of the gate in the morning. Fortunately we found the very best breakfast this morning so were able to fuel up with some eggs, pain de chocolat, fresh orange juice and coffee/tea. Then off we went. Rolling hills with the Rioja red soils...it was hot and dusty, but beautiful.
Notice all the people? This is an ever increasing thing on the Camino...bring a tour bus full of folks...keep them in a 3 or 4 star hotel...give them day packs and set them free on the Camino. They were particular today...more than we've seen. Traditionalist hate them with a passion as they tie up everything, but we just say hello, smile and move past them as we are usually faster walkers, even with our packs on. Apparently we are getting a friendly rep as those fast Canadians...always in jest over a beer or along the way. Bumped into Neil and Sarah...his knee is healing, but her foot is hurting on the bottom. We pass on what we have learned from Natasha and Kim and move on.
We stop for a cold drink at some point at a typical roadside bar...
...he is the one in the middle with a guitar on his back...rides about 20 kms per day, but he is definitely in no hurry what so ever!
The trail wound ever onwards, past hay stacks and up and happily down too...
And then the end of our walk was in sight....only 565 kms left to go...well over 25% completed...woo hoo! What a brilliant experience. I pinch myself daily and lie awake very early...eager to get back on the road again..."come on Annemarie' please wake up...it's time to go". You'd think I was 5 years old again...in some ways I think I am!
I try to leave each day with a humorous moment...today it's this...found on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere...
Burn Camino all! Time for shower and about 10,000 calories...just finished a roll of Oreos. OMG, I am 5 again!!!
This from Annemarie while I have showered and washed clothes...
The Emotions of the Camino
Yesterday as we walked I made a comment to Geoff about how the Emotions of the Camino have a bit of a pattern...with the beginning being quite emotional, the middle being more settled, and expecting that the end would be more emotional again. No sooner had I made the statement than we found ourselves with emotions resurfacing as we passed the long fence of crosses, and added two of our own, one for my dad, and one for Rella. All of this has inspired for me another poem, which is a bit of a departure from my usual style....
The Emotions of the Camino
The excitement and exhilaration as we begin our journey in St. Jean
Tears of joy as we reach Valcarlos and it all becomes real
The comfort of knowing we have prepared ourselves well
Pleasure from a simple Buen Camino greeting from a stranger
Anxiety as our first physical challenge faces us
Exhilaration as we pass the first test with grace
Curiosity about the people we meet each day
Delight when we exchange a greeting the next day
The serenity of the rhythm of our stride
Relief when we find our place of rest
Despair when an unexpected illness provides a setback
Tears again as I wonder if I can go on
A return of exhilaration (dare I say power) as I return to myself
Calm, peace and wonder as we walk under the moon
Shear joy as the shower washes away the sweat and dust of the road
A sense of play when we share drinks and tapas with newly met friends
Tears again as we pass the crosses and place our own
An undefinable moment as we pass the special poem on the wall
Frustration as new blisters and minor pains emerge, a little anger, too
Exhaustion at each full day's end
And a return of anticipation, curiosity and a refreshed sense of adventure as each new morning dawns
Wonderful poem am. We are so happy that you have weathered the adversity so beautifully. Keep up the good work Geoff. Blog ands pics so enjoyed Loves M.
ReplyDelete