Stage 40: Takamatsu- Nagano (T87), T84-87, 26 kms, hazy & humid, 27

Will I Miss Those Morning Climbs?

Stage 40...how did that happen? At times I wondered what it would feel like to be on the brink of completing my Henro. Now I know, and if you want to know everything that's going though my mind and feel the emotions that are just barely below the surface, well it's probably best that you walk this for yourself,  living it day after day as you walk through and experience to continuous self discoveries that are this Henro.

If that's not in your quiver then you could always buy me a beer or two and I just might share with you a couple of thoughts. It would have to be very good beer:)

Well Stage 40 started with the usual 300m morning climb. Not super tough, but after being a bit of a couch potato and eating lots for the past two days it was a good wake up:) It was really warm this morning with high humidity, and I was soon soaked as I climbed to T84, Yashimaji.

 

 

 

During the 12th century the top of this mountain was the site of a major battle between the Heike and Genji Clans. There is reference to it and grave sites in the area. This pond was very famously called the Pond Of Emerald Ball, but the name was changed to Pond of Blood after the Clans washed their bloody swords in it. Nice. I wonder if they might have foregone that if they knew there would be this poor name change?

 

 

The view from the top was quite nice, if hazy. The small peak across the way was my next target. Lower, but a steep little so 'n so.

 

The descent off the mountain was a bit of a scramble, prompting a fellow Henro  to comment that in his opinion it was one of the hardest on the Henro. Hmmm? Didn't seem too bad to me, but everyone is different. At least a breeze had come up to make it more tolerable.

 

There are still critters around here, wild boar warnings and warnings for the huge hornets. I saw a few of those the other day...very cool! And yes, I did shut the gate:)

 

Up to T85, Yakuriji where it is said that Kōbō Daishi before traveling to China visited the mountain and planted 8 chestnut trees. When he returned to continue his Ascetic training, 5 swords fell from heaven and a mountain god appeared declaring the site was sacred. Honest, I don't make this stuff up!

A nice feel to this place. A gentle feeling if you like.
 

 

 

A brisk descent! 

Then a wander to T86, Shidoji. A bit of a kind of scrambled temple site...at least that's what I thought. Of course my photo makes it look unscrambled, but you can trust me. Scrambled.

When I received my stamp the priest gave me an osettai. A very nice pin for my hat celebrating the 1,200th anniversary of this temple. I later found out that not every walking Henro received this, making it all the more of a special gift. He probably just gave it to those who looked like lost causes, very unlikely to find Nirvana. No matter, I like the pin!

 

A good story comes with this temple. It seems that when Fujiwara was constructing Kōfukuji temple in Nara, his sister sent him 3 treasure balls in memory of their father who had passed away. However, as the boat bearing the jewels passed through Shido Bay, the undersea dragon-god stole them. Fujiwara married a local woman diver who agreed to retrieve the balls if their son could inherit the Fujiwara clan. She was successful, but sadly died in the attempt. It's unclear if the son inherited, but I'd like to think so...a happy ending.

A 7 km walk to T87. 

 

 My first sighting of the mountain I have to climb tomorrow in the haze. T88 is on the far side and I understand it's quite the adventure getting up there. Some take the long road around to avoid the worst of the climb, but I figure that I've got to earn the 88th stamp, so I'm climbing.  

T87, Nagaoji.

 

Just about dinner time and I want to finish this. Excited for tomorrow and whatever it will bring. It's been a long road this Henro and most people I meet are ready for it to be completed. I'm sure we will all experience mixed emotions as we walk tomorrow. Lots to think about on the way to the summit and T88, Okuboji! 

PS. My host told me to expect aggressive monkeys tomorrow on the climb. Aggressive in that they try to steal things! Just like in Indonesia. If it rains it may be better to walk the road up. Morning decision.

Takamatsu: The Second Rest Day, Sunny, 26

Netflix Bingin'

I went out for a nice walk this morning and you know, there's not a whole lot to this city without going really far afield. I'm sitting in a Starbucks of all places drinking an expensive grande Earl Grey tea because I was craving one. I found a Japanese spaghetti house for lunch after this and then I'm going to return to my room and continue watching a BBC production called Peaky Blinders. Takes place in the tough Manchester, Liverpool areas of post WWI UK. It's not available in Canada which is a shame. Very well done. Then out to an Irish pub for dinner which is appropriate because lots of Irish characters in my series. 

I walk out again tomorrow, perhaps a pound or two heavier, but that might be my imagination.  I've enjoyed some good beer and wine here with my meals, so I'm hopeful. Without a belt my pants are pretty loose:) Three days to savour this amazing experience and then it will be time to prepare for the trek homeward and reentry. 

I was able to get my reading glasses fixed today. Typical generous efficient service. Done in 5 minutes, no charge...osettai. Function better than the glasses originally did. Nice!

I'll post as usual tomorrow. Four temples to visit and then there will be one. Just one, plus the first 3, but I've visited them before. 

Circle is closing! Very excited!

 

Takamatsu, Rest Day

And So the Ending Begins

It's late as I sit down to write my journal tonight. I hadn't planned to write today, but with a couple of glasses of fine Rioja keeping me awake I've decided to print something I wrote earlier today. 

I spent last evening drinking Kilkenny beer and eating fish and chips in an Irish pub in the company of Dara, his son Liam and our German pal Simon. The food good, the beer better and the company excellent! The conversation was lively and exactly what I needed. 

 

 

Today was a simple day of trying without success to sleep in followed by a messaging session with Annemarie and a very nice phone call to speak with my parents. I also took some time to sort out my plans and made the decision to fly home two days early. The thought of more time spent in Tokyo or some other huge city makes little sense after the comparative contemplative isolation I've experienced these past almost 7 weeks. If a small city the size of Takamatsu is a bit overwhelming, just imagine what Tokyo will feel like! Besides, I've been away two months and it's time to finish up here and head for home. So I'll walk into Tokishima May 14th where it's hoped that Liam, Dara and I will have dinner with David Morton and then I'll have a regrouping day on the 15th and fly to Tokyo and then on to Vancouver on the 16th. Home in time to celebrate Annemarie's birthday! 

With these plans executed, my mind is now clear to stay present and enjoy the remaining four days of my Henro. I feel very good about my decisions and there will be time for the needed reflection when I arrive home and settle in again. Much to sort through. Almost too much...there will be some walking as I arrive home and re-enter.

At about 10:00 I wandered out and found a cheese and ham bun at a bakery for breakfast high I shared in a park with the pigeons, and then walked down to see the famous Ritsurin Gardens. My body needed some exercise and felt better for the effort, though I maybe only walked just over 7 kms. It was enough. The gardens were nice, if a little barren of flowers for my liking. I've seem more flowers, many more on the walk, but it was nice to find a quiet place to just quietly wander. 

 

 

The most colourful thing in the gardens were these young children in their bright red caps.

 

 

I found a little lunch...

 

Had a brief nap while watching a poor movie and then met Kristine at a Spanish restaurant for a good meal of salad, paella and green olives. Of course there were a couple of glasses of Rioja tinto:)  Now that felt more like a Camino!! We chatted about our experiences on the Henro and briefly about life afterwards. A nice evening. 

 

While in the park I found a quiet place to sit and things flowed as they have more and more each day while on this journey. I've learned that I can't stop it, so I don't. I have known for some time that I had to walk the Henro. That I would walk the Henro. For a long time I didn't know why I was so compelled to do so. For two years before I decided to go I spoke to only a very select few about it. In a way it haunted and pulled at me. I didn't understand why, but I think I do a little better now, and I think it will become clearer as time passes. Thankfully Annemarie understands. In this I'm very fortunate for her support and the support of my family. It's been a very personal journey this time like I haven't experienced since I walked the Via de la Plata. I'm very much looking forward to experiencing the last few days here and whatever is presented and then to returning home to see family and friends. It's been an extraordinary experience. 

Walk through the gardens

I pause to write a haiku 

They pour from my mind

So contemplative 

Peace in the morning temple

Moments to hold close

Slowing down to taste 

The last days of my Henro

My soul deeply touched

Feeling Shokuko 

Memories to long cherish 

Something special found

Arrive from the road

With care from Matsumoto

Emotions open

Early morning dawn

I strive to touch eighty eight

Reach for Nirvana

Time for reflection

The long road that's Shokuko 

A circle complete.

 

Stage 39: Kokubunji - Takamatsu, T81-83, 34kms, Cloud, Some Rain, 22

A Special Gift

With rain in the forecaste today and a stiff climb in store for this Henro, I was up very early and on my way by 6:00. Nothing worse than climbing in wet gear on warm days. It's like swimming in nylon. This is the wall that started and would define my day. Once again it doesn't look like much, but it's 500 metres (1700') of steep climbing. I heard my Henro pals talking about it yesterday and several hand motions showing the steep grade. None of them appeared pleased.

 

On the climb to T66 I found the going difficult because of the heat and high humidity (it was easier with the snake adrenalin). Today to my relief it was cooler and I climbed without stopping, and it made me feel better knowing I hadn't lost my legs. The heat and humidity do take a toll. Not yet at the top, but already a great view back. Still no rain.

 

On the way up I passed a small cemetery and took this photo to help explain what these wood sticks are all about. I asked Tutsuka about them yesterday and he told me that the top part is a prayer for the name that runs down the stick. You can see the family name on both sticks running from below the prayer downwards. Nice to have some answers to all my accumulated questions.

 

Once up top I found a road way and started walking westward towards T81, Shiromineji. To my horror the road dropped elevation at a steady rate. When you climb, you hate to loose the hard won gains knowing that you'll later have to regain them again. As I walked a rare car approached me and then stopped. It was the smiling faces of the ealderly couple who shared my accommodation with me. He had been very standoffish towards me at dinner, but I think that after I excused myself, the landlord told them that I was a Canadian Henro. This morning they were much friendlier and they even served me my rice and wished me a good journey when I departed. Again, continuing lessons learned from the Henro. A nice gesture to pull over and greet me again.

I met Tutsuka climbing back up the trail from T81. He'd had the same idea and headed out early. I arrived at the temple to find I had it completely to myself, but no way to light my incense as there were no candles burning and I'd long again tossed my lighter during a weight purge of my pack. So the Process was completed without incense, but it didn't feel the same. 

 

T81 is a large group of temples. Of course one is required to climb many stairs to see them all, but it was well worth the energy drain. 

 

Every temple has its own identity or something that sets it apart. This one has small figures of cats on many of the statues. I'd not seen this before. I was tempted to adopt one, but then I'd have to carry it.

This temple has a good story. It seems that in 815 Kūkai buried a jewel on this spot, dug a well and prayed for the salvation of all living beings. A decent guy. Later, Chishō Daishi saw the spiritual light given off by the jewel and founded the temple. Emperor Sutoku's tomb is located here. 

 

The climb back up and across the plateau towards T82 was very nice along narrow trails. My favourite! The subtropical jungle is extremely thick in places with a very solid canopy. It was quite dark with the overcast skies.  

This was pretty unusual, but welcome.

 

I also had company on the trail and I heard them in the bushes. I made sure I sang loudly! I knew they would stay away unless I surprised them. I've experienced them in Spain in the early morning twilight and there they ran away quickly becaus the Spanish love to shoot them. I figured that unless one was looking for revenge that they'd also leave me alone because they hunt them here too. Having eaten a distant cousin on two separate occasions I guess that maybe I should have been a bit worried afterall. Hmmm?

 

Just before T82 I met up with my Canadian pals from Ottawa, the father and son who I met and stayed with a couple of nights ago at the Kōbō Daishi temple. They were walking a different variant of the route and told me to be watching for this fellow as I walked down to the temple.

 

The story goes that this fellow called Ushioni was terrorizing the local population some 450 years ago (eating them) and the villagers hired a famous master archer to dispatch him. Apparently he was successful. 

These temples located on the plateau were related with Sangaku Buddhism and are known as mountain temples, 'Sangaku' meaning mountain. They are quite nice to visit, and even better without Ushioni hanging around. There are enough challenges on the Henro without having to deal with a big fellow like this!

 

 

 

 

On the way down off the plateau the rain finally showed up and I decided to stay out of my wet gear for as long as possible. I mean, just look at this jungle canopy. It has to rain pretty hard to get through.

 

A few views on the way down.

 

 

I took a wrong turn at one point, but decided I wasn't going to climb back up to find out what happened and I decided to just trust my instincts as I've done so often and somehow it all work out ok. What did happen is that I walked through a major Bansi tree plantation area. It was very cool. I'm not old enough to do this according to a local young woman I earlier spoke to, but maybe one day I'll be old enough to give this a try.

 

 

The walk to T83, Ichinomiyaji was through the outskirts of Takamatsu and without the way marks I'd have never found my way through the labyrinth of small streets, alleys and rice paddies. Crazy stuff! At the temple you are supposed to stick your head into a small shrine, and it's said that if you are not of good heart that you won't be able to pull it out again. Needless to say, I'm a work in progress and while I think I have a good heart I didn't relish finishing out I was wrong and having to stand there all night. I had a really good hotel waiting with a real bed!! I hope KD can forgive the slight.

 

 

This was new....usually a dragon. Wasn't sure if I should be disappointed at not having another dragon for my collection or not?

So on to the exchange that I've titled this post for. When I arrived at my 4* hotel I walked up to reception and was greeted in a very unJapanese like manner. I think they thought a street person had just walked up. I appreciate I was long unshaven, has salt stains all over my shirt and I probably, no,  badly needed a shower. Neither spoke English and they were looking pretty desperate when a lovely young woman walked out of the back and says she speaks "a little English". Great! We start through the signin process and when she looks at my address card she gives out a very unJapanese like squeal. "Victoria! I love Victoria!". Turns out she attended a partial year at UVic and I told her where we live and she got even more excited. She then proceeded to make several phone calls for me to try to find me a spot to sleep after T88. No luck. I figured my Henro was doomed to end a day early and I'd have to take a bus back to Tokishima from T88. We got to strategizing and she got on the phone and the computer and we discovered that I could take a bus from T88 to a train station quite some distance off the Henro, but I could then train back to the Henro. Was it possible? We called a Ryokan and they had room! My Henro was back in gear. I had tears in my eyes as I thanked her and she thanked me. I held it together at the desk as that would in deed be very unJapanese of me! What a special gift she had just given me, and she probably didn't even realize it.

I'm off now to find dinner then I'm going to try and find the Craic Irish pub to have a dram or two of Irish whiskey with the Ottawa Canadian Henro. Paul's quite right...there's an Irish pub to be found everywhere on this planet!! I rest here for three nights and will catch up with Kristine tomorrow night for dinner after she walks in, and I'll have a look around this town. But mostly I plan to eat and sleep as much as possible!!