Day 4: Stage 3: Chiusi Della Verna, 20km, grey and damp, 15°

Wunderbar! 

The title for today’s post came from last night when I was sitting with five German speakers from three different countries. I told them that my friends in Germany who I have met on various walks, particularly the Plata in 2014, have told me repeatedly not to worry about learning German because it’s a fairly difficult language. They all speak pretty good English, so I’ve stayed with their advice ever since. When asked if I knew any German last night my answer was “Wunderbar”, and after a good laugh, we settled into speaking English for the night.🙂

I’m presently sitting in a nice cafe in Stia at just 10:30 enjoying a chocolate Cornetto and a hot cup of tea. Wunderbar!

Our host last night told me it would take 5 to 6 hours to walk here given the wet muddy conditions. This correlated with my guide which suggested 5 1/2 to 7 hours to walk here. As I am making a planned jump by train and bus from here to La Verna, and the schedules are very tight, I set my alarm for early this morning and I was on the trail by just after 7:00. The train leaves at 12:58, a short 7-10 minute ride to Bibbiena where there is hopefully a bus at 14:20 that will carry me up to this famous monastery in 45 minutes. There is only the one bus that will get me there before they lock down the monastery at 18:30, so it’s very important that I make my connections. My friend Costanza looked up the bus schedule for me, something that is very difficult to do in Italy, because of the many different bus companies covering many different areas of the country. Fingers crossed, this will all work out!

As it turns out, the trails today and going forward to La Verna are extremely muddy. So I am completely at peace with jumping two stages which are higher up in the mountains where the trail system will be quite a mess after the heavy rains. Funny how things work out!

As I said, I set out early this morning to make sure that I would arrive in time for my train and bus connections. Unfortunately, it was raining when I left, but that was not unexpected. I put on my rain jacket and covered my pack with its rain cover, and set off from town looking for the trail that would initially climb, and then descend all the way down to the Arno river, and eventually the train station in Stia. 

I surprised a couple of deer on the trail right in front of me, and by the time I got my camera ready they were already flying into the woods. They stopped and were watching very closely, so I was able to get a photo and a short video to send to my grandchildren today. Of course, where we live, deer are not very unique  because there’s so many, but in Italy, you see fewer, and hence my photo. 
I continued on and the trail became extremely muddy with huge pools of water. This was not unexpected as our host told us last night that it would be pretty ugly today. He showed us some videos from the recent rain that indicated the stream crossings would be knee-thigh deep. 

As I worked my way along, I came to a roadway, and somehow I missed the turn back onto the trail. In some areas the markings on this route are not good. By the time I had figured out my location I was part way down that road. If you look at the map above, it’s the first yellow road across the route. I took a moment to question whether or not to walk back up to the route. Looking at the map on my phone I could see that the yellow road continued to swing away from the trail, but would eventually came back to join it about seven or 8 km further on. I decided that the going would be much quicker on the road, and a whole lot less muddy. So I continued on with a nice smile on my face, knowing that I was out of the mud for quite a while, and more confident that I would make my train in time. The road route was longer, but ultimately much faster.
It may not have been the nicest day, but it’s hard to argue that the scenery is not really nice! It was basically drizzling on and off all morning. So not too wet.

Rob messaged me last night, asking where the selfies were😂. He said to me that this is what happens when he’s not with me on a walk. Who’s fault is that?  Rob thinks that people actually want to see me! A selfie from today followed by a selfie from yesterday on a much nicer, sunnier day.

An aside, young woman from France just entered the café, looking completely demoralized. She’s carrying a huge pack as the French often do. I remember a time when we were having a dinner with some French walkers, and the women said that the men in France typically pack like they’re going on an expedition up Mount Everest! This woman seem to be on the same page. She told me that a friend of hers is walking in Austria and that it’s pouring rain there as well. I told them about our friends, Jim and Corie who are travelling in Croatia presently and experiencing all sorts of rain and cool weather. On the other hand, Neil is walking in span in hot sunny weather last time I looked. I guess it’s just look at the draw.

Eventually, I rejoined the trail. 
A short time later I came to a fast moving creek. This was the location that was in flood just a few days ago. Our hoist showed us a video last night of a walker crossing here in full gear with the water about thigh deep. All we could say was, why didn’t me take his boots off? Our host had the same question. I gather someone had sent him this video. Nothing worse than walking with boots full of water all day. Each to his own I suppose. 

The water was actually about 12.-14 “ deep. I was able to rearrange some rocks, and with my waterproof boots, I managed to get across unscathed. I’m wearing quite old boots, and I was pleased that my efforts to waterproof them worked! 

As I write this the church bells are ringing madly indicating that it’s now noon. I think I will pay my bill and walk down to the train station to make sure I have my ticket in hand. I’ll finish this up later, hopefully from La Verna. 

(Written in the Bibbiena train station waiting for the bus and later on the bus). Well, no doubt today has been an adventure. I’m always impressed with the warm welcome and helping hand provided by the Italian people I’ve met on my travels here. For example, today as I left Stia in the rain, I had some difficulties figuring out how to get a ticket at the train station. I’ve purchased lots of train tickets over the years in Italy, but the ticket machine was broken. I asked an older woman for some help and she managed to help me find the correct train. I ended up buying my ticket on board, but I was given a two euro penalty for not having a ticket when I boarded😂. My language skills were not sufficient to explain the problem with the ticket machine, so I just paid and quietly laughed about it. 

Arriving in Bibbiena, the lady at the ticket office in the train station happily helped me get sorted out for the bus up to La Verna. She showed me an app I can download for all the buses in Italy as well! She sold me my ticket, I found the bus driver and now I’m sitting on board right now. As a matter of fact, there’s a nun waiting outside the door to get on, so I know that I’m going to the right place. I’ll just follow her into the monastery! Oh, there’s three nuns now. There are also three Italian walkers (4 younger guys) getting ready to board because most people that walk this route start in La Verna instead of Florence and walk only to Assisi. I think I’ve mentioned this before, right?

The bus driver is playing great rock music and some Italian music I don’t know, so it’ll be a fun ride up to the monastery!  I’m just remembering that it’s Friday which means that there will be new walkers, jumping onto the route as a weekend begins and they will typically walk a week and then go home and back to work. This is not uncommon in Europe, where often people join a route for a week or two while on vacation. It could be a little busy on the route tomorrow! One of the fellows later told me that there many cancellations because of the weather. Maybe it won’t be busy tomorrow?

The bus driver spoke on his telephone the entire way up here. No hands-free. Seems to be the national pastime here driving with the phone in your hand. I know it’s against the law, but almost everyone seems to do it. It’s one of the challenges when walking on a road, but to make sure that the distracted drivers see you. 

That’s La Verna on top of a mountain cliff. 

Hiking up to the monastery. 
Steep!

I arrived just as the service finished and the Franciscan monks came out leading a procession and singing. Something that I’m sure has gone on here for a 1000 years.

I’m off to look around this quite exceptional experience and will finish this up and post soon. 

This place is quite unique. It certainly carries a mistake in spirituality, and I found the same in the Buddhist temples in Japan and some of the temples in Vietnam. For me, there are some interesting dynamics that play in these locations. A few highlight photos:

This is the basilica which holds a series of terracotta sculptures. I don’t think I’ve seen their like. 

This is the place where St Frances received his stigmata. 

And lastly, the Sasso Spicco where the saint apparently prayed in the rock crevasses. 

All in all a very long day, but also a diverse and interesting day. Dinner is at 7:30 and it will be interesting to see what is served. There’s a bar here so I imagine I can have a good glass of wine or a beer with my meal. I guess I’ll find out soon! 

A long post, but lots here to journal about.