Day 63: Stage 49: San Quirico, 23 km, fog & brilliant sun, 26°

Do You Think We Need Fog Lights?

Last night we went for pizza in a small highly rated little pizza shop. There was a spectacular sunset but that wasn’t the highlight of the evening. 





The owner and his friend spoke absolutely no English, but we managed to have an awful lot of fun talking about the Via Francigena and where they live.

I was chatting away with the two of them while Rob was taking photos and videos. It was a great exchange! This is why I took 2 Italian classes at UVic. Though I’m admittedly poor, the last 5-6 weeks has helped my ear to adapt so that I can understand more of what I hear than I can actually say. Does that make sense? 

Day 4: Coffee For Rob! 😂



After a ridiculously good breakfast we were out on the trail. After yesterday’s sun we were a little surprised to find heavy fog this morning.

The stage was just 22 to 23 km so we didn’t set off too early. Geoff is not a slave driver!😂





We saw a little evidence of the heavy rains that I experience last week. Proof that the gray mud was just as bad as the red mud!



We traversed a number of vinyards today as well as passed by the vintner’s operations. It was tempting to go in and taste, but for both of us it was just too early in the day. I know, a couple of sorry pilgrims! However, as I write this we are both sipping on a particularly special bottle of Chianti Classico riserva 2018.  Eat your hearts out!

At one point towards the top of a climb we came across a crew who had been harvesting grapes all morning preparing to take a coffee break at around 10. I stopped and chatted with them and one of the fellows had a little English. After exchanging particulars and pleasantries they allowed me to climb up into the vineyard for a look around. 

They even allowed some photos. There were about 12 or 14 workers and everyone was interested in our walk and where we were from. Yet another opportunity to practice my Italian. I’m following Costanza’s instructions. 







With continued climbing we began to see the sun burning brightly above us, and then the blue sky. It was so beautiful!

All around us the fog continued to rise and descend.

It was just like walking between heaven and earth.







As I said yesterday, we’re now getting into the volcanic area of Italy. Lots of volcanics through this country, particularly in the central and southern area. Think Mount Vesuvius. Tomorrow we will spend about a third of the walk climbing up the side of an ancient volcano.







We arrived in Torrenieri where we found a small bench to rest for a few minutes. The central bar was closed. We did find one on the way out of town, but by that time we had our rest and were ready to finish the stage.

Another Rob selfie(s).

By the time we completed our break the fog had completely dispersed.



Hill towns abound!





It was a long climb up into town, and it was getting a lot hotter out in the direct sun. This all added up to a great way to end the stage!

Looking back across the valley at our descent before we climbed to town.

Almost in!

Arrived!



And into yet another beautiful hill town in Tuscany. I’m soaked after that last climb!

Some of the stone smiths use to put images of themselves into their carvings, or just unusual faces. 



We were buzzed by fighter jets through the late afternoon, and I got a little bit a video as well. Boy do they move!

We stopped at a wine bar for a little refreshment and an excellent bowl of soup using a traditional recipe.

We both thought the soup was just brilliant! The second day of soup for lunch!

I took a little time to chat with our neighbours who were from New Jersey and from Taiwan originally. They seemed to be extremely well travelled for such a young couple. I wonder what they do? Apparently Rob’s niece thinks this hat is more fashionable. She’s totally right, but less functional in the hot sun! It will be back to the other hat tomorrow🙂

Rob had another breakthrough today as we toured through some formal historical gardens! Actually, the art was pretty weird.

And this is home tonight, a great little apartment on the main floor where we have two bedrooms, a full kitchen and a brilliant outside covered deck. We gave most of our clothes a long overdue wash, and hung them out in the sun. Then we found our way to a local grocery store where we picked up enough food supplies for dinner tonight, an excellent bottle of wine and breakfast food for the morning.

My first project as always upon arriving was to get my gear in order. As we were walking towards town Rob called from behind me to say that he’d found my bag of mountain mix on the road. It turns out that what I thought was my guidebook in my side pocket banging my knee was actually a massive hole in the cargo pocket and things were starting to fall out! Good news that Rob was right behind me. These shorts were new before I began this journey, but as with many other things in my pack and with my body, the wear and tear of the Way is taking a toll. I stitched up the pocket and I feel that more and more I’m using a little bit of string and tape here and there to keep things pulled together. No ibuprofen though! Just 10 more stages across 225 km and we are into Roma and the Vatican!

Take note on our nice patio. Annemarie you would love this place! Rob is already asking if we can stay another night🤣

Tomorrow we walk to Radicofani, a 33 km stage with a 1165 m ascent which my guidebook rates as hard. Apparently it’s a very scenic walk, but is considered one of the harder stages mostly because of the 12 km climb at the end. We shall see about that. There have been a few tough days on this journey.  I’ve been looking forward to this stage for a very long time. In my book anytime you can climb a volcano is a very good day! 😂

We are watching Rob’s knee closely (he’s doing great, no worries) and we’ve arranged a morning bus which will drop him about 9 kms from Radicofani. He tells me that I’ll have to catch up!🫤

All good here. More tomorrow from the top of a volcano! The adventure continues!