Day 34: Stage 29: Santhià, 37 kms, Sun, 31°

Let ‘em Run!

During an extended period in the Jarl Mountains and later the Swiss\Italian Alps climbing and scrambling most days, it’s been difficult to find any real walking rhythm and flow. Here and there I’ve found bits and pieces, but there’s really been no continuous flow. Then there’s been that odd big toes thing, right? When something hurts it’s basically impossible to find your walking rhythm. Out of the mountains and toes bandaged properly, today was the first time in over a month that I felt there was an opportunity to find a little of each.

I planned a double stage today, hence the two maps. Time enough to work out the kinks after a lengthy period in the mountains. The forecast was for a hot day, so I decided to get up and head out early. I had an interesting breakfast of yogurt, a sports drink and the cold leftover ravioli from last night. I know it probably sounds a little gross, but I figured it would give me the energy that I needed. Besides, it’s what I had available. I stepped out the door of my wonderful little apartment at 6:30 sharp. Where is everyone?

The city was basically empty and the air was warm and humid. Not a great start. After running out of water right at the end of the stage yesterday I added an additional half liter. So I was carrying one and a half liters. That’s 3.6 lbs of water. Thankfully it lasted all day.

Something the following series of photos will not show well is just how massive the lateral moraine is. Formed during the last Ice Age and left behind when the ice retreated and ultimately melted. It’s truly impressive! It kind of looks like a massive wave like they show in some dumb Hollywood disaster movies. 

The beginning to show signs of arriving.  

I was unclear what an apparent Neptune was doing here, but I liked what I saw. Turn right!

My guidebook says that there were a couple of old Romanesque churches to keep an eye out for today. This is the first one.

The sun kept trying to make an appearance. There seemed to be the sunrise, but then a little cloud rolled in.

I was on and off the moraine for much of the morning. These moments allowed for some great views along from time to time.





Now that I’m in Italy I’m finding that the local people and municipal governments are setting up little rest areas for Pilgrims. I get lots of friendly waves and encouragement as I walk. Unlike France however, people don’t say good morning or hello very often as I pass unless I initiate it. Maybe it’s just me with my dorky hat and my sticks?





Before I knew it I was right back into the vineyards. I don’t know exactly what they were growing, but based on my limited sampling both the red and 

white grapes appear ready.

They are actually already harvesting the white grapes in many areas and I suspect that they’ll begin harvesting the red grapes in the next 10 days or so. 





I arrived in Vivaron, the end of the first stage and couldn’t find anywhere to take a break or to pick up a snack. There were however, these paintings on the walls of the buildings. I have several of them for you Saoirse.

A little further up the road I found a nice rendition of the walking symbol for the Via Francigena. Just in case you haven’t seen it in my other photos.

I walked on to the next large town called to Cavaglià and while there was a nice church and evidence of a recent celebration, none of the restaurants were open. I guess they were all to tired from the festival. Fortunately I’d been planning ahead and picked up a nice bun and some cheese yesterday for a sandwich. I did find a cold sports drink in a tobacco shop which was great! So I sat down just outside the church and took a break and ate my lunch.

While I was sitting there the bells of the church started to ring the 12 noon gong show! I caught it on video and you can also see that the two restaurants are both closed, on a Tuesday?

On leaving Cavaglia I noticed that the terrain was beginning to level off. It was strange to have such a large horizon after being closed in amongst the mountains these past weeks.



I watched the water rushing through irrigation canals everywhere heading down to help water the crops in the Po River basin. It’s been so dry there this summer. Worst drought in 70 years!



I arrived at my final destination and gave a pass on the traditional beer because I need to get rehydrated as quickly as possible.

That accomplished I did have a couple of beers in my little apartment tonight.

I am indeed in a not so little apartment tonight. It’s considerably cheaper than last nights little apartment. I stopped at a grocery store and picked up supplies so that I could cook dinner, breakfast and make myself lunch for tomorrow. It only cost €12 for all that food. As I write this I’m delighted that I did that because otherwise I’d be outside right now trying to find a place to have dinner and there is a massive lightning and thunderstorm roaring overhead and the rain is just pouring down! My only concern is that the power will go out and I won’t be able to get this posted. So I’ll sign off and get things finished up here. Another decently long day tomorrow and it’ll be interesting to see what lies in front of me.

The sign is pretty accurate, and the distance to Rome matches my guide. Making headway!

Happy Birthday wishes to my sister Kathy! It was great to connect and thanks for setting this up Caitlin🎂🎉