Day 28: Stage 23: Etrouble, 13 kms, cloud to sun, 26°

 Italia!! Molto Bene!!

(This map is for two days) 

My stay at the hospice was as advertised, very special. The hospice staff was great and made every effort to ensure everyone was comfortable. There were three of us who are on the Via Francigena with all three of us expecting to get to Rome, though at different times. Kelly from Canada and Haus from Zeeland in southern Holland. I shared my dorm room with a Swiss couple from Aigle, a town we passed through the day we left Lac Lausanne. Seems like weeks ago, but in reality it was only a week ago. So much happens each day with every day so full. I’ve missed this the last couple of years. We enjoyed a communal dinner together with perhaps six other people who are staying in the hospice and hiking other routes. There were at least 4 languages floating around the table. A lovely evening and one of the highlights for most pilgrims walking the Via Francigena.

Before the rain started to fall last night I stepped out to have a look down the lake towards the Italian end. 

I had a late breakfast today, as did everyone else because with the wind and the rain during the night the pass was left shrouded in cloud this morning. It was only a 13 km stage to Etrouble, but much of  the earlier section was steep and a bit of a scramble. 

Halfway down the lake I passed the old Swiss customs building and moved into the frontier before Italy. Of course these days the stations in the EU are no longer in use. Let’s hope it stays that way.

Then quiet suddenly, OK, shortly afterwards, I was in Italy! The fourth country of the five that the Via Francigena crosses.

Everyone was pretty bundled up this morning because it was just 4° out, but figuring that the cloud would eventually stay above us and then clear I went out in shorts and a light jacket. With the cold wind behind me I wondered if it was the right decision.

But soon the cloud did start to lift and I could see that it was going to be another brilliant day.

The peaks sitting well above the tree line were very rough and jagged. Really dramatic to walk through and to look at.

I think this was the sunrise?







I spoke with his young German couple on the way down who are tracking hut to hut. This is fairly common in the Alps as there are so many hats that are suitable for hikers to stay in. They had just returned from two years in San Francisco doing research, and we’re happy to be back in Europe given the Covid and political situations in the US.






Sometimes it doesn’t pay to look up!



This is the Italian side of the very long tunnel that goes under the Grand Saint Bernard pass. This is the long avalanche tunnel. Amazing engineering!

I’ll be walking along there shortly. The descents happen so relentlessly and quickly. I had originally planned to walk the full 31 km down to Aosta, but decided to break up the stage as most do in order to enjoy the views of the Alps for as long as possible. There are some flat somewhat dull days crossing the Po River valley ahead. Through the whole stage I kept telling myself to slow down and take it all in. So I did!

Lots of nice streams coming down from up above.

The first town of Saint-Rhemy has been welcoming pilgrims for centuries after their dangerous crossing. You have to remember that in earlier times there were bandits on the trail, heavy snowfalls and storms that would unexpectedly hit these folks. Today, it’s a little easier. We have no bandits!

For Bryan and Ken.



Looking back. 

A lovely little irrigation canal join the trail and I followed it as far as I could even though it took me off the Via Francigena for a time. It was just too nice to walk along this trail and I figured out that I could rejoin the route further on.

My home for tonight suddenly reveals itself.

Can you tell I’m in Italy?😂

The town square is all set up to honour the Via Francigena. Italy is really invested in this route and it shows.

They even have their own beer for it!

Well dinner last night was very good, breakfast this morning was just a couple of pieces of bread and some tea. Not enough to hold me. I was famished when I got into town and I located the first decent looking restaurant I could find and I had a great lunch. I’ll be back there for dinner at 19:30 when they open! I photographed the menu so I go study it closer🤣

I had my first three conversations in Italian today! On the mountain I met a young woman climbing up towards the pass and she seemed quite pleased when I responded to her in my rather broken Italian. It’s difficult for me to switch languages from French into Italian or whatever, particularly after a long day. I later had a long conversation with a fellow from Marrakech who had moved here some years ago. I gather he’s raising his 3 kids here and his brother and sister live in Germany. He was pretty animated and gestured repeatedly, something I’ll probably have to get used to a little bit more. Something about the Mafia? My last conversation was in the restaurant, but not quite as successful. Fortunately the waiter realized I was pretty tired and he used his English. However, all three conversations gave my confidence a bit of a boost, and I’ll get more proficient as I go. Those two university courses seem to be already paying off.

I’m hoping for a little more sleep tonight. It seems that nobody slept well in the hospice last night. I know in our own room everyone was afraid that they might wake the others with a little bit of snoring, but I think it was more to do with the attitude. 

Tomorrow is a little longer stage as I continue to descend to Aosta. It’s a town with considerable history and I wanted to get down there early enough to experience some of it. Very please that I stopped here.