Day 22: Stage 18: Saint-Maurice, 25 kms, Sun/cloud, 28°

No Shower?

We’ve finished our walk for the day and Annemarie is sitting beside me reviewing yesterdays blog post and telling me about all the typos! I reminded her that I was sitting it in the dark down by the lake watching a spectacular sunset and try not to burn too much of my data. Clearly I’ll have to go back and tidy it up. Eventually.

Breakfast this morning at our youth hostel was surprisingly good! They were very nice people at the hostel and they were delighted that at our senior years we were still prepared to stay in the youth hostels. The receptionist told us a story about how her grandma brought in her grandchildren the other day to stay overnight so they could have that experience just as we passed along the same experiences to our own kids in 2000. 

At 8:00 we set off down along the eastern end of the lake in the somewhat cool of the morning delighted that we were in the shade for the first hour.

We approached the Château de Chillon, a place made famous in a Lord Bryon poem, The Prisoner of Chillon. It really occupies a quite dramatic location and dates back to before the 11th C with updates in the 13th C

I found it very tranquil place this morning. Unfortunately it wasn’t yet opened as we passed by. I would have enjoyed poking around for an hour or so. 

We walked on to Villeneuve where I’d planned a short train ride through an area that even the guide writers claim is a boring piece to walk. I’ve no problem doing this occasionally as I’d rather enjoy the more special walk that began just down the rails at Aigle. 

Off the train and lunch purchased for a picnic later, we set off again. Aigle has been a core fixture here since the Bronze Age and was a Roman settlement called Aquilas meaning Eagle. This is the older portion of town. We found a stamp in the beautiful old church. 

On our way towards the first climb of the day. Looking back towards Aigle and the 12th C Château d’Aigle. Napoleon and his army stayed here in March 1800. 

We both found the first climb a little bit brutal after the long hot day yesterday. However, we were rewarded with spectacular views! Our destination for tonight was the notch in the distant mountains.

The second half of the climb was basically along a very steep sloped side of the mountain. At some points he was almost to drop off with some trees along it. Not always the most comforting.

Looking down through the trees at the village of all Ollon.



The dissent was steep and quick, bringing us very close to the vineyards above the town. For the record, the grapes were extremely sweet in the morning sun. I only had a couple!

We stop for refreshments at this cute little bar. I should’ve taken a picture of the inside as they had done a really nice job of making it cute!

Then began the second climb of the day, but it was not as high as the first climb. Nonetheless the views were just as inspiring.



We found a lovely quiet road the direct us through some beautiful trees that allowed a filtered light defined us down below.

If I hadn’t been watching closely, and with the help of my app we would’ve missed the turn off and subsequent descent through a lovely vineyard. Here too the grapes were beautifully sweet. I only tried a few: )



As we approach this bridge from around the corner all we could see initially was the barrier. It was a huge relief to find the bridge was passable to foot traffic.

After crossing the bridge we immediately turned West and followed and lovely channelized stream bed. There are little waterfalls at regular intervals to slow down the flow of the water and also to aerate it.



Within swung onto a bicycle path that basically took us all the way in over the last 5 to 6 kms. 

We were very grateful that we didn’t have to use his caveling system to pull ourselves across the river. The river was flowing with a high volume and at a high velocity. Clearly runoff from the fast melting glaciers above.

Shortly after crossing the river on a small foot bridge we turned as a massive explosion occurred very closely behind us. We were a bit surprised to see massive pieces of stone sliding down the side of the quarry wall! Had I been a little quicker I might’ve been able to get a good video. As it was I got a couple of photographs. I commented that we’ve had more surprises on this walk than we ever experienced during all our walks in Spain combined!

This was the entrance to town. Impressive, right?

We arrived at the Abbey of Saint Maurice, and after walking around in circles thinking we were staying here we finally found someone to talk to. We were given our stamp in our credentials (mine was upside down!) and we completed a document that will be used to track pilgrims going to Rome. A young fellow then took us to our rooms, but the rooms were not the right places to be! There were no showers!!! I looked up the reservation I’d made and it turned out we were in the wrong location! We went back to the front desk and all had a good laugh about this. We said our goodbyes and wandered down to the Saint Maurice Hotellerie Franciscaine which I’d thought was part of the Abbey. Haha, we do thankfully have shower here!

One more thing. Today is our good friend Ken’s PhD defence! We wish him great success! We know you’ll ace this after all your incredibly hard work these past 5 years! 

Tomorrow is Annemarie’s last stage on this Chemin. In a few days she will be on her way to Holland to see family and then on to Ireland to see Paul’s parents Geraldine and Joe. A walk is planned in Ireland and I can’t imagine the fun those two ladies will have! I’m looking forward to th3 Facebook posts from both of them! Apparently there will be lots of gin and tonics! 

Now it’s time for dinner and perhaps a quick visit to the church.