Day 10: Canterbury: 0 kms, hot, +30°

There’s Been Changes! 

Last night as we walked back from a very enjoyable evening spent in a 14thC pub we paused briefly in front of the cathedral to sort of take it in, and we were unexpectedly delighted!

It’s not clear what was happening as it wasn’t on the hour or anything like that, but the bells played for over 3 minutes. Twice! I think they are balancing and tuning the bells as part of the restoration. Lucky us!

The Parrot, 14thC public house. 

Walking back the evening air was refreshingly cool and the streets were empty of the hordes of tourists we saw on our way in earlier that afternoon. I understand that the travel world has changed, but still it’s nice to enjoy the quieter streets after the tour groups leave. I wonder where they all go?

How would you feel working in here all day? The door looks like it’s been recently adjusted…yet again. 

Old town. 







This morning after a light breakfast, for Britain anyway, we headed for the cathedral. Google maps said it opened at 10 but it really opens at 9! This might explain why it was quiet inside for the hour we were inside. As we left around 10 the tours were just arriving and there was a line up to get tickets, £14. Pilgrims with credentials get in free and also guided around. Very special 🙂

I was last here in 1975 with my sister Kathy. Back then it was black from the coal based pollution. Today it’s come back to life!

Amazing! The oldest church in England from 597AD.

The ceiling inside has been cleaned as well. It almost sparkles. Stunning! I’ve been kind of into old churches since my first European travels in 1975. 

I took a few photos as my old ones are on faded slides. What a treat to visit again with a digital camera. 















This flame still burns for Archbishop Thomas Becket who was murdered here in 1170 when King Henry II is said to have asked, Who will rid me of this turbulent priest? Four knights set off to Canterbury and committed the murder. 



What I best remember from my first visit is the dramatic blue glass at the head of the church. It’s just as I recall. 

Ok, now I’ve overwhelmed the blog with photos of the cathedral. Back to the Francigena. 

A good story. Arriving at the cathedral yesterday I was a bit surprised to find the commemorative stone for the beginning of the Via Francigena placed in front of a necessary, but somewhat detracting sign. 

Kind of difficult to fit in even with my fairly small pack.  

Today after thinking about it for a while I spoke with one of the cathedral police constables who was passing by and instead of making a humourous comment (bloody tourist) he actually took it very seriously. He agreed that it wasn’t right and immediately contacted the head of security who said that he would send off an urgent email to correct the situation. I was very impressed! We will cruise past tonight and see if there’s been any action taken yet. I posted the story on the Facebook group page I’m a member of and there were a surprising number of responses from others. As I thought with the ongoing restoration work on the cathedral the two markets have been moved a few time, but their current position raised some eyebrows! I performed a blocking maneuver today. 

The cement market on the left is the highly coveted UNESCO World Heritage Site identifier for the cathedral. 

This particular marker is special to a very few. The Via Francigena is walked by only a select few at least until Lucca, Italy where the last 420kms to Rome begins. The numbers begin to pick up there, but thankfully not like on many of the Camino routes in Spain and Portugal. I guess if all goes well I’ll find out about this around September 25th. Lucca and so many other interesting places lie in between here and Rome.

Tomorrow I’ll be up and on the trail before 6 to beat the heat that’s again arrived. We’ve decided that I’ll walk the 32kms to Dover solo and Annemarie will meet me there. There is a train strike so she can make my 6-7 hour walking journey in just 35 minutes on an bus that no doubt has AC! I’m ready to continue this experience some 3-5 years in the making. It’s wonderful to be back on the road again, living with just the things that will fit inside our packs.