Stage 9: Joppolo - Agrigento, 13 kms, cloud, sun, thunder storms, high winds, heavy rain, 18

"Sicilia, We Love You!"  - Constanza about 10 times a day:)

This has been some walk! It's had a bit of everything from stunning vistas to hot sweaty climbs. Spring flowers covering fields to the horizon and barking dogs in the early morning light. Periods of aloneness, but also new friendships with three fellow walkers and those who hosted us. Times of self reflection on long, tough stretches of trail and other times of celebration as the way is found, or not. Much laughter, most of the time:) What's interesting is that all of this, and much more was found in such a short time. Nine stages is pretty short, but something special is happening in Sicilia. There's a new player in town and it's shaking things up here like nothing has shaken this rural area in some time. It's called the Magna Via Francigena, and it's as difficult to say those three words properly (don't even try, you'll hurt your mouth) as it is to understand the changing winds that are sweeping the remote central area of this island. 

It's a different type of modern day travel, that hasn't visited these shores since this road was travelled in ancient times. Traditional mass tourism is staying out of the way, largely keeping to the periphery of the island shores where the beaches, hotels, restaurants and tourist services are readily available. Few yet even know of this walk, even in the towns along the Magna, but this will soon change because some local people along the way are seeing the change and we've had the simple pleasure of meeting with and sharing thoughts with a few of them. Others we've met for only a moment to exchange brief words as we pass by; shepherds tending their flocks, farmers at their work and locals in the towns.  With some folks we've simply returned their smiles and friendly waves as they scoot past in their cars, or shout "buon journee" as they fly past on their bikes. Something's changing here and the local people are beginning to notice and to awaken to the changes. Something special is happening in Sicilia. 

Folks who operate small B&B's and other simple accommodations have voiced that they feel the people in the towns who have operated in the same way for centuries are going to have to change their ways to accommodate the needs of the walkers. Remain open in the afternoon to house and feed the perigrinos as they arrive. You know, we often arrived to find that there was no place available to eat for hours, or small stores open to find something to refresh ourselves. I'm ok with this. There are ways to manage, and I hope they don't change. The French certainly haven't. It's part of what makes the walker feel like they've stepped back into time, to a simpler, better defined period that's always operated like this. That said, I like that the small places where we stayed were prepared to be flexible about when we arrived. It's always nice to shower and change after being on the road for 6-8 hours.

The walk into Agrigento was generally uneventful though the morning thunder was a surprise;) 

There were the usual nice views,

reflective time at the end for each of us,

fellowship,

and completion at the end.

The real excitement actually happened later in the day when the winds kicked up to 45-60 kph and a storm arrived. Constanza and I had left Annemarie to relax while we ancient ruins junkies headed down below Agrigento to the Valley of The Temples. It was late afternoon and while the winds were howling, the rains had yet to arrive, though we could see it lashing areas to the west. We took a chance and decided focused first on the main Greek temples which are quite well preserved.

We saw the main temples as planned, but the storm was fast approaching and we had about 2 kms to power walk back across to the entrance to this huge site where we could try to catch a bus. You can see the rains arriving to the west where we needed to be.

So off we raced, but the storm opened up and wave on wave of rain arrived. We took shelter in the ruins figuring the staff would shelter in buildings and leave us alone.

We made it to the bus with a Slovenian woman who we'd travelled down to the site with and gratefully climbed on board, slightly damp. In town the skies opened up and the thunder started to kick into full gear. We arrived at our accommodations slightly damper:) Later the three of us went out for a celebratory dinner and what a change in the air after the rain. Off off the Med, a first for us.

It stormed through the night, but though cooler it had stopped raining so we three went wandering. First to the cathedral which is under complete restoration.

Of course we had to climb the bell tower! We are just like little kids:)

Great roof top views.

Then a wander through the church museum.

Erin, there was a Rubens too:)

Then we hit the streets. They let anyone drive here (apparently even me), and they seem to drive much like this fellow would. How did Thomas from Swiss put it? Something like, "when we drove here we followed the rules". Enough said.

By chance we met with Thomas and Ellena from Switzerland as they arrived. A tough day due to the rain and high waters. Where we'd crossed a stream yesterday in our boots, they'd arrived this morning to find the stream almost waist deep! Those storms can be very intense. So they took the long way around on the road. Any way, much celebrating!

Constanza caught the afternoon train to Palermo and from there she will fly north to visit her mother in Lucca, just west of Florence before taking the train north to where she now lives and works as a nurse. We remaining four will meet for dinner. Tomorrow we will pick up a car, one of those metal things with round rubber things, and head west somewhere. We have no formal plans for the next week and will find places to sleep as we go. I may blog here or on highendeavors.blogspot.com. Walks here, in Malta and elsewhere I will for sure blog here. 

Thanks for following, and the public and private comments are always appreciated:)

Buon Cammino! And remember, something special is happening in Sicilia!