Stage 1 (sort of): Palermo- Monreale, Sun, very warm, 26

From the Underbelly To The Crown Jewel

Before I begin into today's adventures I want to take a brief moment to post some photos from a beautiful chapel we visited at the palace yesterday. This is a shot from the backside of the palace which makes me think of a quick reno/addition made after the king and Queen had each successive child.

Inside the 11th C chapel was stunning and a gift to the eyes! A Unesco WHS. 

We returned to the restaurant from the previous night and received an enthusiastic welcome from our host. It was a little like coming home to a familiar place and she helped us with our Italian pronunciations which led to endless laughter. I know, I'm so good at picking up languages! However, I'm beginning to see similarities with Spanish, so perhaps my ear is aging well with the rest of me;)

Today the hosts of pension also welcomed us up from our slumbers with great warmth and provided a very good breakfast and good conversation. The breakfast cake was made by "my Mother" and it was indeed wonderful. We had completed all our required errands yesterday and decided that we had one thing left to accomplish today for our friends Neil and Sarah, and kind of perversely for my buddy Rob. Yup, we went in search of a bridge...sorry Rob. Not just any bridge, but the finest example of a world heritage medieval Norman bridge left on our planet! Hey Rob, at least it wasn't Roman! Built in the 11th C, it was pretty cool...for a bridge...without water under it? The trick was that we had to walk through the underbelly of Palermo to reach it. It was a bit of a dicey walk which is something for us to admit to given some of the places we've historically ventured into. I left my camera tucked away until we reached this...

Hey, good news was that there were no tour groups or buses present. After a good look we worked our way back into a more comfortable part of the city and once through the tunnel ahead...

...we found a delightful  and colourful market. 

Then after a refreshment we walked back to our place and picked up our packs, poles and boots and headed off to begin our Cammino! I must admit that it felt nice to gear up again and start walking, even if it was only to the Cathedral. 

And then out the old city gate, Porto Nuevo. Still not a route marker in sight?!? We tried to ignore the tourist choo train to the left, but I'll admit that about 7 years ago  it was the only way we could see Toledo, Spain. Are you taking note Neil? It was pretty funny, but it suited a need.

On the other side of this gate we found the main bus pickup point and we waited with most of Palermo's population to catch the 389 to Monreale. Our bus finally pulled up and we basically ran for the back entry door to try to get aboard. We've seen this sort of free for all before, and given the bus was already close to full, standing room was at a premium. We made it, but many others were left behind. Sometimes it just doesn't pay to be the "sorry" Canadians. The bus held more people than it was ever designed to hold and Annemarie thinks it was fuller than anything we experienced in Vietnam. I'm not so sure. We've stood on some pretty full buses over the years. At each stop more people tried to force themselves on board and at one point an older gent managed to force his way on and proceeded to berate anyone who would listen to him. Poor guy. It was pretty overwhelming. We arrived at Monreale and not being sure this was our stop, we eventually had to force our way off the bus against traffic and I think that with my pack on I took out one or two unlucky folks on the way off! Sorry. 

We were greeted by our hostess who took us to our nice apartment and then it was time to go see what we'd come here for, aside from the fun bus ride.

Clearly very simple on the outside, this proved to be the exact opposite on the inside. 

In two days, when we are in Corleone on Independence Day, they will celebrate the 750th year of this spectacular Cathedral. Again another World Heritage Designated sight and reputed to be the jewel in Sicilia's crown. Hence the numbers of people who find there way here each year. Oddly, I've read that this little hill top town has the highest population density of any place on Sicily. Hard to believe with such poor bus service! 

A late lunch and a different quest began. Kathy, a lunch photo for you love. Something a little Greek about this I think, except you're missing at our table.  Our walk in France isn't too far away. There will be lunches there:)

So, a funny thing so far that will be appreciated by our fellow walkers. We have yet to see a single route marker. Not a one. Nothing outside the churches or cathedrals or in the towns. Nothing. We walked all over Monreale late this afternoon and couldn't find it. No one seems to have an idea that there is even a Cammino through their town. Amazing! When I asked the operators of the bar where we enjoyed lunch today if they could direct us to the route out of town all I received were blank looks. We showed them a small map on the back of our credentials and they asked where we were walking to. When we explained they were shocked that we would even consider walking across these mountains. We've had that response ever since we arrived on Sicily. Eventually we were able to get some directions where we received our stamp at the cathedral, but even those I had to confirm by asking a shop keeper on the way out of town she confirmed that yes, this was the way out. So with some relief we have our exit strategy for the morning. We have purchased breakfast supplies. Our hostess left us juice and cookies as the provided breakfast. Won't get too far on thise zero calories! 

Now we have our clothes washed and dried, it's warm outside. The blog is written and we are at almost 8 pm and it's time to wander down to town and find dinner...and maybe a nice glass of vino tinto. This is the view back to Palermo. Sadly we descend into the valley tomorrow before beginning a full stage climb. I think we are looking forward to that. For sure the ritual cold beer at the end of our walk!

Buon Cammino!