Stage 42: Saint Jean Le Vieux - St. Jean Pied De Port, A Stroll, Rainy Periods, 15

A Circle Complete 

I'm sitting on our bed in an inexpensive hotel room in Bayonne sipping a fine Bordeaux, eating M&M's and simply savouring the moment:)  My pal David reminded me that there is particularly good chocolate available here, but I figured I'd start low and work my way up...we have all day tomorrow to indulge! I've had so little chocolate on this trip, well except for the M&M's I put in my daily walking mountain mix..."melts in your mouth, not in your hand". Oh, and of course there were the pan de chocolate and Napoletanas de Chocolate of which I consumed at least my share. However, that was for walking purposes, fuel for the walk if you like. Sitting and eating chocolate for the pure pleasure of the experience hasn't happened on this journey. Oh, I forgot about the chocolates Rob and I found in Astorga...those were good! Ok, but aside from those brief indulgences there hasn't really been enough chocolate. On reflection an oversight? Perhaps, but the chocolate in Spain and Portugal really is second rate for the most part. There's good specialty chocolate shops in the main centres, but it really isn't their thing. Now the chocolate in Northern Europe is something special and we will be sampling as we move northward. 

Today we pampered ourselves by lingering, packing slowly and having a late breakfast before heading out the door at around 9. The clouds were low and the temperature was forecast to be an unseasonal 7 degrees below normal. Frankly it was a bit darkish and rain was threatening. 

However it seemed that we were walking in our usual weather bubble with only a few hours of rain encountered on this entire walking journey. I think we're getting better at this:). Still it was a lovely, peaceful walk in.

Of course the powers that be engineered one final climb just before SJPdP! That's looking north into the foothills. Behind me are real mountains and all the serious uphill stuff.

Oh, now we are getting into the Brie Cheese which seems to match my fine red almost as well as the M&M's! Dandy! 

Any way, we walked into St Jean past the base of the citadel and through the ancient gate where pilgrims have passed into the city since the 11thC.

A young American peregrino took our photo as we exchanged stories from the road. He begins his wak to Orrison today, his first Camino. Lots of questions which was great. He will have an amazing experience!

We walked slowly into town just savouring the moment. It was 37 months ago to the day that we took our first steps out of the other end of town to begin our first Camino. Much has happened since then. Two careers completed, our family more or less launched, many miles travelled, new friendships made and some very special times experienced at home and abroad. We both felt the significance of the moment as we walked through the gate and along the medieval streets. 

Along here the wealthier pilgrims took shelter and at the end of the street was a place for the poor and injured to find shelter. Much like today where generally those with fewer means often take shelter in the albergues and those with more in their wallet often look for a step up in accommodation, but not always. We have used both this year and had good experiences all along the Way. 

We passed by and then entered the Pilgrim Office where we received our last stamp in our credentials.

I had just one spot left in mine, so the timing was good. We missed this stop the first time as it was closed for lunch when we arrived and so we obtained our first stamp in an outdoor retail shop just down the street before heading off on our Camino. We were so excited!! We stopped there again today to look at their library of Camino guides. Of course we purchased one written in French covering the 900 km Le Chemin d'Arles to Puente la Reina (La Voie du Sud) just past the beautiful serine chapel at Eunate where we spent a special hour or two in 2013. Our next walk? Perhaps:). Our walk this year showed us that we are learning more and more about how to walk together...still talking and laughing at the end. This past week has been very good:)

However, the skies finally opened up and the rains began. We'd again arrived just in time. So we took shelter first on the street and then in the church.

We visited with other pelegrinos in the doorway and then ventured out in search of lunch. Perhaps these next photos will bring back some memories for some of our friends?

And then it was time to find lunch! Sarah, unfortunately the restaurant you recommended was closed today. We found it and the duck on the menu, but closed. Too bad! We found a nice bistro and had a lovely meal and Annemarie found a long waited for hot chocolate! 

Then there was another break in the rain and we decided to make a break for the train station.

The famous train station which usually and mostly has one way traffic! We were going against the grain today.

However, we had completed our circle and it was time to depart. A very satisfying day. A very satisfying   journey. Now we reside for a couple of nights in Bayonne, a city we briefly visited on our way to St Jean Pied De Port 37 months ago. At that time we were jet lagged, but so very excited. Full of adrenaline and just waiting to launch! Now we are fatigued and in between again. Yet knowing that we have just enjoyed a wonderful and quite unique experience. Did I feel a very strong urge to continue on up to Roncevalles? Of course...c'est moi! But I know it's time to leave here this year and visit with Erin in Holland before heading for home. To make sure that I did, I booked my return flight as soon as we arrived in Bayonne!

Besides I know that we'll likely be back next year...as I write this Annemarie is already studying the Arles guide!!!

These two peregrinos will have a little vacation now! A couple of days here, a day in Bordeaux eating and drinking way too much and then onwards to Holland, a few days for Annemarie before she heads home on Thursday morning. I fly the following Tuesday, and I get some one on one time with Erin:) Weather tomorrow, 24 and sunny!! Soak up the last of that sun...it's pouring at home:(

Bon Chemin and Camino!