Given the excessive heat of yesterday and the forecast for today we decided to not take any chances this morning. I was questioning the validity of walking the short distance to the Cruz de Farro in the dark as it's such a special way point on the Camino Frances. However, as I lay in bed sorting through a few things in the middle of the night (it only cooled slightly last night) I found my friend Neil's comment on the blog post about how he and Sarah walked up from Foncebadon in the dark and how special that was for them...first to arrive. Rob had told me that it didn't matter to him as he was just passing through. So decision made. Thanks Neil. As always a very timely comment. It was important for me to pass this way and having the decision clear in my mind left me better prepared for what had to be done.
So after a quick breakfast in our still warm room (the slate tiles on the roof above our room held the heat and roasted us all night) we ventured out into the dark. As we climbed a couple of things happened. First there were some of those nasty big sheep that had taken me down on the Plata...we managed to avoid a similar outcome. Then there were the many spider webs that crossed the path hitting my face...I should have suggested to Rob that he lead us up! And lastly as we approached the summit there were the most dazzling lightening flashes across the sky in front of us. Very cool. And then we were there...first to arrive as was expected given all those spider webs. With the moon overhead and only our head lamps to light the Cruz the effect was stunning! 
After a time we continued on and so began our long descent. 
Past that special place called Mamjarin where we froze with all our clothes on in 2013...19 degrees this morning before sunrise! Speaking of which...
The sky was alive with light, clouds and colour this morning and I took full advantage through the morning.
A few shots on the descent just off the summit.
Arriving into El Acebo, 
I had time to locate a suitable coffee stop (on the left), loose my gear and take up position to film the unsuspecting Rob as he entered town 
Quickly forgiven when the coffee arrived with a fresh Danish!
Down we went...
I let my feet run on the steep descent into Molinsecca. It was as always a complete feeling of freedom. You see, I was in a hurry to visit the home of the lady who had provided us with figs from her trees and then let me photograph her in her flowered window in 2013. She wasn't home today, but her presence graces a wall in our family home. 
Past beautiful little village churches that were actually open. Not always the case. The locals encouraged me to go inside where I had my credential stamped for the day. Much better!
I then had time to view the ancient bridge that takes one into the town centre while I waited for Rob.
Then Rob showed himself and it was time for a cold beverage...
From there the walk to Pomferrada is about as boring as 8 kms can be and then the skies darkened and the winds blew. We did arrive dry.
And after the usual stuff we had pizza for lunch with our usual beers and then geared up for tomorrow when we will leave the Frances and head southwest across the Invierno. We arrived back in our nice digs and as I write this the sky has opened with huge lightning and thunder and accompanying heavy rains. The heat has climbed into the mid 30s and the rain should cool stuff a bit. Glad we are in before this deluge hit...I've been on the receiving end of these before and trust me, it's wet! Probably won't get to the Templar fortress as a result, but such is life on the camino. This shot was taken as we walked in.
Tomorrow we will have to focus better as the Invierno isn't as well marked. Very excited to walk somewhere new. Last month just 80 people walked it, a far cry from the literally thousands who continue from Ponferrada and into Santiago each month. That said, they say that one should walk the Frances first before exploring this variant. It's not recommended for first timers. Yvette, Rob is doing great! He's healthy and looks to be enjoying himself. I'm posting lots of pictures of him for you, so you can see for yourself.
Ah, Rob awakes and the storm has passed. A hot day ahead again tomorrow. Time to post this and get on with a beer and cookies...appies before the main event!
Buen Camino!
Hey Geoff
ReplyDeleteI'm so glad you hd that amazing experience walking up to Cruz de Ferro. I had forgotten the spider webs until you mentioned it but now it all comes back. Our time there was very special, until some loud and insensitive types arrived and the moment was broken. It was one of the places where we really felt connected with pilgrims from the past - some of them had laid down some pretty heavy burdens there. Your shots taken looking out towards the west from the high point took me straight back to being there. We have shots taken from the same place and so does Ken, I think. The sky always seems amazing there.
I loved your shots of the bridge at Molinsecca. We had lunch sitting looking at that bridge the day we walked through. It looks just as peaceful in your shots as it did that day in 2013 - what a reflection!!
And yes, that last tramp into Ponferrada, it is pretty droll. In fact, the way we kept ourselves interested was by counting the number of BMWs that drove past us. It was close to 50 as I recall, not bad for a country whose economy was supposed to be struggling (either that or BMWs are a lot cheaper there than they are in Australia).
So, here you are, resting, cleansed by the storm and ready to strike out on a new route. Go guys, I hope you can find your way and that it proves to be full of riches for a couple of adventurous peregrinos. We will follow you with interest.
We're just about to head out for our morning walk... we're both wearing our packs now so it's getting serious.
Buen camino, Neil and Sarah
Have a good walk while I sleep!
DeleteIt will pretty interesting to see what tomorrow brings on the Invierno. More of Spain I suppose!i
Too bad the fig woman wasn't home. I wonder if she would've remembered you? <<¿Me recuerde?>> <<¡Sí, señor!>> I think that's how that exchange would go.
ReplyDeleteBut the good news is that you'll have to walk into Ponferrada again some time, so you can see the Templar fortress! I don't remember that part of the walk at all. I do remember stopping at a café in Ponferrada and eating something--probably a tortilla de patata, but maybe something sweet--and watching two English ladies demanding "leche fría" for their tea. I also have no memory of the iron bridge, either. Very strange.
Great photos as usual. Maybe getting to Cruz del Ferro in the darkness is the best way to do it? It was so foggy when we were there three years ago.
Where does the Invierno leave the Francés? I hope you get a photograph of the spot where the trail divides.
¡Buen Camino!
Hey, you stopped at the cafe across from the fortress with us. It was quite good, and I noticed renovated. The post tomorrow will tell all, but it leaves just before the old bridge as you cross the river into town. Funny that we were so set on getting into town, but the markers were all there and very clearly so. We walked out in the pitch black of morning and over that bridge. For that reason we didn't cross the bridge coming in yesterday...used the new bridge.
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