Stage 26: Lubian to A Gudina, 24 kms, 4.5 hours, Cloudy & Windy, 16C

Preparation and Renewal:

Yesterday was a difficult day for everyone. The road construction has completely destroyed the Camino route on that stage and we had to walk almost 25 kms on the hard highway surface, often sharing the road with massive trucks and the noise of construction. It was a demoralizing and a cruel day. You have to understand that I am sharing the Camino with peregrinos who have walked multiple Camino routes and are extremely experienced. When they are saddened and unhappy with a stage, you know things are very out of balance. The beer I enjoyed on arrival helped to lift my spirits, but I later called Annemarie to share the experience. In her wisdom, she remindered me that the Camino will test one's resolve and that there is much to learn from a day like I had just experienced. I took those thoughts away and contemplated them for quite some time last night. Unresolved I went for dinner with the French Connection and to my surprise a better effort was made by all to communicate. The evening turned into a time of sharing stories and personal histories. For example, I learned last night that Didier actually now lives in the south of Portugal in Fero where he works on something to do with Samtiago...but I'm still not clear what this relationship is. He has walked every Camino route that is on my list, and then some. The other retired couple walk about four months a year if you can believe it. Philip also walks a winter Camino each year. Amazing! 

Returning to my problem, this morning after a modest breakfast I was early onto the trail with some trepidation that today would be much like yesterday. As I started the 6 kilometre climb through the Canda Pass, I again reflected on what yesterday had signified for me and began to understand that the near 800 kms walked to the foot of Galicia was simply the 'preparation'. I think that those who have walked this type of journey or something similar, might perhaps understand this perspective. We deal with so many emotional, physical and spiritual challenges during the many long days on the trail, that by the time we reach Galicia we are mentally prepared fand open to some form of renewal. This of course finds each person in a different way. As I've often said, a Camino is a very personal journey. Suffice it to say, I had that type of a day...the ups and downs weren't just the topography. 

There is a sense of peace as one enters Galicia...a sense of arrival and quiet satisfaction. I'm sure that will continue to grow as I approach Santiago de Compostela. I now have just under 200 kms to walk and I will enjoy every one of them, no matter the weather or the challenge. 

Now on to a few photos...I think you are in for a treat today! There wasn't really a sunrise as it was cold, windy and cloudy...how about a brief sun burst?

This is where I started my day...bed thirty something:)

It had rained hard all night, so mud a yet another hazard...low hanging tree branches and shrubs...soak you as fast as a rain storm!

The climb to the pass...in the clouds up ahead.

Memories of the amazing trees in Galicia...many more lay ahead in the coming days.

On the way up, I reconnected with Annemarie, from Zootewouda, Nederlands...a place well known to our family and a place Annemarie and I based ourselves for about 6 weeks back in 1981 with two of our favorite people, Joop and Puk. The fond memories of two bottle nights! Born in Dutch Java, Annemarie is a serious walker who has walked all over the planet and is a nurse in Lieden. She takes unpaid three month leaves each year and travels and walks places I can only dream about. We exchanged photos for each other...so few peregrinos on the trail that it's near impossible to have someone take your photo during a stage. I think this is my first.

Notice the mountain heather, from here on upwards. I put some in my hat band to brighten the day a bit...hey, I'm confident with my masculinity!

At the summit...finally Galicia!

The walk down was brief...climbed again most of the rest of the day into a very strong headwind. Here are a few images from the experience.

The colours were just outstanding!

A special experience along the way today was an elderly man who walked up to me, looked me in the eye as he firmly shook my hand and wished me a sincere "Buen Camino ". You just can't imagine...

I've received that sort of reception the entire journey...must be the flowers and stork feather on my hat!

And the village ladies are always ready for a chat...

Stunning...

And lastly this cross, very ancient, very eroded by the elements...

Tomorrow brings a long stage, 35 kms to Laza as I drop from about 1100 meters to just 450. Lots of up and down, then a very sudden down at the end of the day...my knees are going to love that! Of course this is Galicia where every down is followed soon after by an up...that will happen on Monday.

I have my food for tomorrow as everything will be closed on Sunday. My pack is heavier, but again it's down hill at some point, so all good. While my body would dearly enjoy a break, I think I'm leaning towards walking in to Santiago without a break. I would like to have some company at the finish rather than walk in alone. It's an experience best shared as I fondly remember from last October when Annemarie and I shared the experience with Jen, Karen and Ken, and others. Ken did go ahead, but we met him there. I've read that one of the pitfalls of the Plata completion is that one needs to manage their entry a bit. Watching the hoards of peregrinos arriving from the Frances can be a bit of a downer to the individual peregrinos arriving from the Plata. A bit of a culture shock for sure, and no matter how I prepare myself it will be difficult after all these solo weeks of my journey with few others around. Something to contemplate as I near Santiago. Perhaps Didier would enjoy some company that last stage.

Buen Camino

Galician 'watch' goose!