Stage 9: Villafranca de Los Barros to Torremejia. 28 kms, 31C, 5 hours

Flat Vineyards...Who Knew?

 I'm sitting in a bar in the small back-water town of Torremlejia (double rr, remember to roll those r's). There is little here in the way of amenities, a step up from the town we stayed in on Roman Road while walking the Frances where Neil photographed the 4 of us walking in a line across a road looking like something out of a spaghetti western...gun fight in the ok corral! At least there is a bar here where I can sit by myself with the locals, have a cold drink and write. I clearly need some space from the albergue crowd and if I sit there to have a drink the talk will inevitably turn to all things Camino. Besides this way I'll hear more Spanish spoken and will have to depend on my own communication skills. The tunes are lively and above the bar hang the flags from each of the 3 major Spanish football teams, Real Madrid, Athletico and Barcelona...owner is clearly playing it safe with the Champions League final coming up May 24th. I will find a seat in a bar to watch that game...not to be missed...wish I was joining you Ariel. Wonder where I'll be? Here is the town...

Enjoyed a very nice evening last night with some like-hearted souls, Rafael from France, Robert from Berlin, John late of Liverpool now living in Germany with his wife whose name is old German and I can't seem to get it in my head (but I really enjoy her company) and Ole who is a retired German living in Holland just across the border from Achem and north of Maastricht. We must have cycled right past his house 2 years ago...can't wait to return to the Netherlands to ride again, perhaps next year?

It took us forever to find a place to eat, but we were finally rewarded at 9pm when the only restaurant in town to open during Festival became available. Most amazing salad followed by two lovely pork chops and potatoes, washed down with a couple of bottles of vino tinto...and followed with a brilliant dessert. We ate like it was our last meal, leaving nothing, all for the nominal price of about $12. The food is by far much better on the Plata than it was on the Frances. Perhaps I've said this before...it's possible:) We crawled into bed, bellies full and slept a few hours before getting up, having breakfast and hitting the road in the dark.

The walk today, while long was pretty much a no-brainer...just hooked up some gentle music, pointed myself north and put my body into auto pilot! It was that flat and that straight most of the way...sort of like the meseta, but with vineyards all over the place...flat vineyards! But first the sunrise...

And then,

I enjoy every single one of them...so good to be alive!

Must say the  trail was pretty flat today and the vines went on and on to each horizon in all four directions. 

With not a great deal to test the imagination or the senses, except...is that papyrus out there in the field? What's it doing there? Wierd. 

The road went on and on and I was so happy to have some music with me to help pass the time...5 hours like this sort of numbs the brain.  Eventually I caught up to Ela who left earlier and we walked and talked together for close to an hour...she is very intuitive and insightful and left me plenty to contemplate as I walked on. I later came upon a fellow from Genova, Italy who I watched (from my bunk) as he departed this morning at 4:30. He is in considerable trouble with his lower legs all knoted up. I walked into the olive grove and got him up on his feet and showed him how to stretch himself out and managed to get him moving again. I suggested that he stretch his legs regularly through the day and certainly when he finishes the walking day...all this communicated on his translator app. I saw him come in later, so hopefully he will show some improvement soon.

A few more shots from the day...some new flowers to report. If I knew what these were they would find a home in my garden. Hope you enjoy Mom.

The farmers you meet on the back roads are always ready with a brief smile and a wave as I walk by, sometime with a "Buen Camino" which boosts the heart.

Home tonight is in a municipal albergue and this one is pretty good, situated in a historic building no less. The beds are in good shape, almost new and the rooms well cleaned. Good showers too:)

Tonight I will rejoin everyone for dinner and to discuss the day. Tomorrow a quick 16kms into Merida and the Hotel Las Abadias where there is a private room waiting for me with clean sheets, towels and everything! Thanks Annemarie:) So excited to get there that I could have walked in today. I was fresh after 28, so 16 more would have been possible given it's so flat in this area. It just takes time, but what else do I have to do all day?

Time now for a cold bowl of Gazpacho de la Casa then return to the albergue to have a nap and send out a few emails. I feel well so far and have put the jet lag behind me. Acclimatization is over, I have a good base tan and I think the first 200kms have gone pretty well all things considered. Just can't get to that hotel fast enough!!

Buen Camino!

PS: see what I mean about learning when I'm on my own...the owner of the bar just gave me the weefee code in Spanish sounds and I had to type it in as he read out the numbers and the letters...I got it right!!! That seals the deal...time to move on by myself. I'll learn more. Take care all.