It Juat Keeps Getting Better!
As mentioned I stayed in a nice little albergue last night where I was well looked after. The operator and her husband were a delight and she was an amazing cook bringing us course after course followed by dessert and liqueurs.
The town was pretty basic with a small church, a half stocked little store, a pharmacy and the usual small bar...where we sat for a time and watched the bull fights on TV...pretty silly stuff, but the play by play guys could have come off HNIC...all in suits and very serious. The only thing in town that I couldn't quite understand was the village tree...
You aren't imagining things...the tree is tied to another tree pole??? Sure there is an explanation, but the question would have been well beyond my Spanish skills and certainly wouldn't have been in my phrase book! Another mystery.
So today. Magical. The scenery was outstanding, the temperature ideal...only missing was a sunrise, I think for the first time on the trip. I fudged one when the sun finally showed up, and here it is...
The image I took in its place was pretty good too, but not a sunrise.
I walked through several pueblos today, all very quiet, so I simply moved on. I had lots of food with me and
just stopped from time to time along the trail. There was a strong head wind most of the day. I started out across rolling farm land at about 880m before crossing an escarpment where the Camino dropped about 250m all the way into Zamora. The views were exceptional and then the cloud began to part allowing the sun to slowly filter through. This is wild lavender, previously last seen much further south at similar elevations.
The trail today was made up of just about everything. Parts were gravel, other areas sand, as above (difficult to walk in), and heavy clay which I could see would be ugly in rain.
There are not many folks on the trail, but I caught up with my pal Didier from Bayonne, France. He is pretty special...walks with just a list of the albergues, no map or any support information. He arrives every day and only occasionally gets lost...we all do, unless you are German and have one of 'those' guides...more on that in a moment. Didier does have fluent Spanish and almost no English, so we spend our spare time working on my French and his English. Somehow we manage to get our messages across and I've never seen Didier without a smile on his face...just one of those fortunate souls. He will move on tomorrow and I'll miss his presence.
The flowers today were amazing...one of the best days in the past 10.
I just missed a flock of sheep on the road, but after reflection I decided that my history with sheep this Camino hasn't been the best so I felt a bit better about the miss...and they were huge!...the photo doesn't really show their size well, but the shepard should have been playing basketball...what a waste.
I recently mentioned getting lost on the route. Usually the markers are pretty good, but there are times that if one is not watching closely...possibly distracted by the flowers...it is possible to find oneself where one isn't supposed to be. By chance it happened to me today. I was enjoying the views, taking some photos, eating a banana and wondering along when I began to realize that I haven't seen one of these or a yellow arrow for a very long while.
Knowing the general direction I should be moving in I crossed and followed a side country road in an effort to re-acquire the Camino. However, I suppose I didn't walk far enough as I never did find the trail again. Wandering country roads in the general direction is fine, but I've learned from experience that creeks sometimes show up requiring the removal of boots. I knew there were indeed creeks in the area, so finally decided to walk to the nearest town and ask where I was...my map book is that bad...I hate it, but have become used to it, and it will make a nice souvenir, so I keep it. I eventually find my way to a town and discover to my surprise that I'm in Entrala which is actually on my map (this is pretty rare, so I was excited). 8-10 kms from Zamora.
Too far back to retrace my steps, so off I go along the narrow highway edge. I stop when the big trucks come along, and there are many but eventually I make it to the N-630 and autostrada, both much too busy to walk on. Fortunately I saw a sign for the cycling route into town and gratefully I follow it. Definitely not the typical route into Zamora for peregrinos. There is some signage which makes me somewhat comfortable...but I like the tags, so press on.
Eventually signs of civilization show up (pun intended)...
Civilization! And I eventually pick up the Camino and cross the river into town over a a beautiful bridge.
I'm here and in my Parador...a special retirement gift from my family.
That's it for today. I'll spend a day here wandering the churches...apparently there are 24 of them. Guess I'll pick and choose a bit;)
Buen Camino.
Back in town again, and I continue to be a fan of your uploads. Ironically Lis and I were going to stay in Paradors in Portugal for our honeymoon,m until we found out the Brits would annul her visa and residency in the UK at that time..... So we never went, still would like too. Just back from Montreal, nice place - some time to see the Circe de Soleil - completely mad but wonderful. Hockey is still very much on right now with both east and conferences at 3-2, both Montreal chasing NY and the Kings leading Chicago. Scholes says England should play like Liverpool, already transfer targets are underway. Chelsea sold David Luis. And in other news Lis cut her hand open so that I get to do all the extra chores..... Take care my friend - and continue with the wonder blog! Hell of walk, you're almost an Aussie - going walkabout......
ReplyDeleteAriel
I'd love to learn the story of the "arbol del pueblo" (the village tree), too. What a strange icon, especially since it would have to be renewed occasionally.
ReplyDeleteI think you made the right decision to walk in the spring, just because of the wild poppies and lavender. It must be worth the hot weather.
Ken