Stage 13: Caceres to Embalse de Alcantara, 35kms, 19C, 6.5 hours,mixed weather, rain

The Camino Gives You What You Need, Not Necessarily What You Want:

After a long discussion, a group of us came up with the title of this blog entry on the Frances, and it seems applicable now. While planning this Camino I figured that for every couple of nights I spent in the albergues I would need to spend a night in a hostel or hotel or something to have some space and privacy. Surprisingly after spending the past two nights in a simple hostel I was more than ready to move onwards, feeling quite isolated, and move back into an albergue. I'm not sure that this trend will continue, but it's nicer having folks around, even if some of them do snore particularly loudly. 

Our plan to eat at an upscale restaurant didn't work out as it was closed, so we went back into town and found Deb and Bergit who had arrived late in the day having covered the 40ish kms. We were all surprised to see each other so went out for dinner until quite late...in bed by 11:30...hmmm.

I was awake early as usual and looked outside to find heavy rain...back to bed until 6:30. Wondered to myself, why I would want to get up early when its not going to be hot out. A change of head spaces clearly in order. So off and walking by 7:30 with the rain having stopped for a time and a chunk of highway to walk. Lights on in the early morning dawn...surprising how few peregrinos carry lights. Traffic sped past at close to 100kph, so it felt a little dicey to be on the narrow highway margin. Finally off it and a bit of a sunrise...

For much of the day I walked in what Annemarie likes to call a bubble. Rain all around me, but I was dry...for a time.

I walked alone for quite some time, however, experienced a pleasant surprise when I came around a corner and there were Cordula and John resting their feet. I had heard that they had transited Caceres yesterday and had hoped to see them, but one never knows. With my two long stages I'd left many behind, but they had caught up as had others while I enjoyed a day off. Another reason to stay in the albergues...you see and hear about everyone. For example, Elka is 2 days behind with an injury. The Japanese couple abandoned the walk today due to an injury and Robert is back in the the monestary that I stayed in 3 nights ago...I knew that because he emailed me to complain that I hadn't let him know that they don't serve wine with the dovino dinner.! Typical Robert. Anyway, long story, short...it was great to see everyone and have dinner together and far too much vino to wash it all down!

Most of today I seemed to walk in a weather bubble with the rain all around and heavy winds. I passed through the detours for the new bridge and highway construction and the guard told me that I had just 7 more kilometres to walk, plus two bridges. Wondered how high they would be, but not too bad, just put my head down and walked at speed to get across. 

It was a bit messy, but the detour signage was good and I had no problems. Just another long highway walk. I put on Margerita because it looked like I would finally be caught by the rain, and on the first bridge that's exactly what happened. It poured...3kms from my destination...it poured. So now I have wet boots, but fortunately I brought some newspaper from Caceres and it's helping...hope to have dry boots for the morning. Will see. 

I took a great video of a bunch of goats and sheep following me today. I crossed a large sheep farm and got a bit misdirected as little signage. When I turned to retrace my steps all the sheep and goats in the area followed me! I had a good laugh and wondered if I could convince them to carry my pack, but before I could come up with an idea they lost interest and turned away.

I'm staying on the edge of a reservoir in an albergue that is considered the 'Parador' of albergues. Very nice and they are cooking meals again...after we all carried food 32kms:( but the have vino and beer too. Should be a nice evening.

A few more photos from the day...

I'm finding that folks are travelling at speed across the route. I guess its a combination of many things. At the time you don't seem to be moving too quickly, but then on reflection you realize that in fact you are. I think part of this comes from trying to maintain contact with the folks you like. Robert has been left 3 days behind, a shame because his humour is terrific. He tells me that he is surrounded by walkers from Italy and that none of them speaks German or English, so he is isolated. He returns home in a couple of days, but this would be a bigger issue if he planned to walk further. I feel fortunate to be in a general group where English is reasonably well communicated. Often this is not the case. 

About 335 kms traversed so far. Annemarie tells me I may be going too quickly. Something that I'll reflect on tonight and try to get a handlel on. A big issue is finding places to stop...often most small towns, or pueblos are just a one night stand...there is literally nothing to do in many of these places. You can only stay in a albergue 1 night.  If everyone moves ahead...separated by only a day or two, then I feel inclined to do so as well. Plasencia is 3 days ahead and I plan to lodge myself there to watch the Champions League final on Saturday night. Perhaps I'll look at spending an extra night there then 3 nights in Salamanca and arrive into Zamora a couple of days later. However, I need a short nap before I do that sort of mind numbing work:) I'm retired now you know.

Buen Camino!