Our truck stop proved to be another nice find, although we thought we were going to stay in Vega de Valcarce which was a much more beautiful and no doubt quiet village.
We had trucks rolling past our window all night...ask me how I know! On our way out of town we had our first encounter with a big, nasty dog...sorry no photos as I was busy fending him off while Annemarie walked on...quickly. I remember lots of teeth, but fortunately for one of us neither suffered a bite (me or the dog).
The morning excitement over, and adrenalin levels back to normal we walked on and enjoyed one of the most beautiful stages of our journey. While it was grey and cloudy, this held until we were close to the top of the climb when it didn't matter much any more as we were pretty sweaty from our exertions. The now automatic ponchos popped out of their places and voila, they were on.
We had an enjoyable walk part of the way with a young Irish fellow who was riding from Leon...I must say it was pretty nice to see one of those lazy bikers sweating for once!! A very nice chat with him and we debated whether we were walking in Ireland, the Kootenays or Austria as all three would have satisfied the views and the topography.
Once we were well up the climb I left Annemarie (with prior permission) to take off up the rest of the climb for some contemplation time. I love those moments of personal challenge when my mind can wander where it may. Particularly special as I hiked up into the clouds with the most delicious scenery...I agree with our new pal...it's the Wicklow Mountains all over again.
We both agreed as we hiked into the mist that we could feel the spirit of those many peregrinos who had walked this way before over the last thousand years...hard feelings to share...you just had to be there. I think it was more apparent today as we had walked on paved roads the past two days and we finally moved back onto the pathways.
Towards the top we passed into Galicia and into one of the most anticipated and yet less looked for parts of the walk. Anticipated because the scenery is so good, and less anticipated because the many Spanish 100 km folks will join the Camino after two more days of walking and we will be that much closer to the end of our journey.
Tonight we are staying in a very nice little room over top a bar in O Cebreiro with a million dollar view...assuming the clouds lift. Two big beds and no trucks here, so sleep is pretty much assured...all for about $69. I'll be very happy with that after the long night I spent reading last night! Thank goodness for the Kindle.
Returning to the title of today's post...as I walked upwards today I thought of the various things in my pack that I hadn't intended to carry up the climbs when I was preparing at home. These included several editions of various Spanish newspapers for helping to dry our boots out on rainy days; a 100 gr Tollerone (dark chocolate...yum!); one of Annemarie's boots; if you can believe it a glass jar of excellent honey; a wet coat and various other minor acquisitions. Doesn't really matter what we carry at this point as our fitness levels are pretty good and you should have seen Annemarie as she powered up the hill today...she told me several folks were actually telling her to slow down. As I've previously mentioned, there are many new faces on the Camino presently whose fitness is still developing and injuries slowing. They will improve as they go...it's the way of the Camino.
Rest in peace Rob, you are missed.
Buen Camino...
Jeff and Annemarie - the photos, words, poems and experiences you've both shared have led to tears, laughter and silent thoughtful moments. I like the beard and you both appear ageless - a good thing! I'm so proud of you both for the distance and for being able to still enjoy one another's company along the way! Your missed, but I must say...I enjoy every post and am happy to experience this little piece of history through you both! Keep safe! Lisa S.
ReplyDelete