Stage 5: Pamplona to Puente la Reina 27 kms 6.5 hrs

The Pleasure of Tranquility: 

As promised, today was a long, but satisfying walk. Up early and on the trail by 7:40 (slept in to 6:45!). It's usually a long muddy trek to the top on the Alto Perdon, but today we lucked out and the trail was dry and there was an amazing rainbow to the north with a full moon poking through the clouds...we chose to take this as a sign of good weather and positive vibs for the day.

 In deed the clouds lifted as we ascended the Perdon and the views along the way were stunning. 

The metal silhouettes at the top are an inspiration to all peregrinos...a real way marker on the Camino. We exchanged greetings with a German couple and took photos for each other. 

The descent was as advertised, steep with much loose scree, but we managed to find our way. Without event. Caught up and walked with a lady from S. Africa whose friend had to bus ahead after damaging her knee on the steep decent from the Pyrenees in the rain and mud...I lucked out that day...so many hurt themselves, and we see them bravely hobbling along with zero complaints, just a smile and a "Buen Camino" as you pass. 

 After passing the over the summit we found ourselves in very scenic territory as we passed through the foothills of the Pyrenees and numerous small villages. Eventually we found our way to Muruzabal where we left the Camino Frances and joined the last part of the Camino Somport which runs up from Madrid...I have looked at this walk as a future solo stroll. In any event as mentioned yesterday, the detour was to visit a very special site, the octoganal small church of Eunate. 

To visit this place is truly a step back into time...a place not unlike the Cham temples in Vietnam or the small town mosques in eastern Turkey. No one speaks, just a nod will do. Meditative and calming...a place of pure quiet removed from an ever busy world. Only a few peregrinos make the 6 km detour, but as you sit inside this small chamber others enter quietly, take seat, shed their gear and just sit and pause. Yes, these small oases of peace are still out there, and we will hopefully find others in our travels. 

 Then it was back to the business at hand...walking in warmer weather than have seen so far...Annemarie running out of water and a detour up to Obanos was required to sort that out. Tonight we stay at a simple, but pleasant hotel in Puenta la Reina having walked together further today with full packs than while preparing for this journey. Damn this cold beer tastes wonderful! Tomorrow we will walk to a small town just past Estella called Ayegui...there is free vino Tinto there, but that story will have to wait until our next entry. We are staying quite remotely that night so there may be no weefee...so no concern if we are out of touch for a day... I'll do two posts!  Hot weather on the way...will be a different walk will this forecast change.

 Buen Camino...from two tired but very happy peregrinos!