The Blewett Walk, Nelson, BC, 20kms, 11C, mixed skies

This is the third walk I have enjoyed on this trip, the first Myra Canyon, the second Mission Creek greenway in Kelowna (very nice, but not documented) and this morning a walk located just outside Nelson, BC. Annemarie was raised in the hamlet of Blewett on the side of a mountain after her parents emigrated from the Netherlands some years after WWII. They eventually settled in the Kootenay River Valley, a beautiful, if somewhat remote location in the SE corner of BC. It has always been a favorite place to visit family, first when I was dating Annemarie and later when we were raising our kids. Essentially empty nesters now, we have again returned to visit and find the same warm welcome always accorded us on previous visits. We like it here so much that we once considered buying a property here, but didn't because it's 10-11 hours by car from Victoria. We now wish we had because lake front properties have sky rocketed in price since those earlier days and are now commonly in the $800k - 1.2M range. Ouch!! I think in future years we will return to rent for a month in the fall because it's better value, still decent weather and many of the tourists have left...plus NO maintenance! 

While here we have been treated to some amazing sailing...how nice it is to sail on a boat without the maintenance! A photo or two from that experience...

Today I was unusually slow to rise...my back has been misbehaving a bit since I built the fence last week...and I was convinced by Annemarie that a walk would be a good thing and that she would meet me after the first 9kms at the dam and water diversion system on the upper Kootenay River...Kootenay Power. So after a very nice breakfast...our hosts make sure that they all are great...I took Annemarie's sticks and headed off down the road. I took the poles because I had been warned about a couple of less than friendly dogs, and learned on the Plata that poles were helpful in this regard. Turned out they were, but the dogs here don't hold a candle to the Spanish dogs for size, ferocity and perseverance:-) Quickly dealt with and I walked on.

It was a bit cool as I headed off, but a brisk pace soon warmed me and the views across the valley also helped to cheer me up. The sun also made some appearances which was great.

Annemarie's family homestead...

As you can see the scenery is great and quickly reminded me of the first day on the Frances as we walked to Valcarlos...I mean, just look at the scenes...add Spanish cows, a bit more pasture land and dogs and you're there!

I even found some flowers which made my day...

Annemarie passed me in the car as I neared the end and then we walked out through the water retention channels build to support down streamflow for the many hydro dams. The unusual thing was that the main one was completely empty...something I had never seen in 38 years and Annemarie also claimed she had never seen. Very cool.

It was pretty strange. I finished my walking day with a hill climb with Gil (the one on the bike) and the dogs...have to make sure the lungs are still functioning!

Now back with a beer and ready for another meal, but felt this was worthy of a blog post. We have plans for some walking tomorrow in an area I have never before visited and we are keenly looking forward to that. If there is enought to blog about I'll post again.

Myra. Canyon, near Kelowna BC, 18kms, 11C, drizzle

Today we had the opportunity to walk the. Myra Canyon, something we have wanted to do for many years, although we originally planned to ride it. It's part of the trail system which includes the Trans Canada Trail and the Kettle Valley Trail...in this area due to distances, typically cycled, but also walked in parts. 

In 2003, a number of the trestles were destroyed in a major fire which also claimed many homes in the Kelowna area...quite a disaster which took days to bring under control. There was a feeling of great loss following the destruction of the trestles, but generous contributions from the Province and others allowed reconstruction to proceed. A couple of years ago the work was finally completed and the traIl reopened. 

The trail follows a rail bed dating back to the early 1900's and there are 18 trestles over it's 12 km length. We decided to walk 9kms out and 9 kms back, due to the weather and as Annemarie hasn't been walking distance of late...so in reality we actually crossed 36 trestles:-) Walking there and back gave us some unique views and stayed fresh the whole way because of course the return walk looks completely different than the outbound leg.

There are also two rather long, dark tunnels to go through...quite amazing!

The rain came along when we were half way through our journey, but no fear, we had wet gear with us and of course I had my Camino hat on too...so all worked out well. 

I must say that the trestles were very high and because they were situated on the side of a canyon the height was accentuated. Unlike our walk over the high bridge leading into Portomorin on the Camino Frances, I had my head in the right place today and found that the heights didn't bother me at all. A great relief as the views were stunning! I found myself hanging over the side taking photos of the trestles and the valley colors...

If you look to the right and below the trestle, the burned, fire destroyed wood from the 2003 fire are clearly visible.

As we walked back, the clouds descended and enveloped us...it was a beautiful moment and brought back Camino memories for both of us from O'Cebreiro...clouds all around us as we decended from the high pass, and then suddenly the clouds parted and the day was stunning. Today the skies didn't open for us, but it nonetheless it was stunning at 1,300 meters elevation.

A great start to our vacation...more walking ahead:-)

Paris: Hot and Sunny...27C

Last Evening:

No matter where I travel, a visit to Paris with it's wide boulevards and busy cafés is always a special experience. Nothing quite matches up and I think back to my first visit in 1975 when I walked the Champs Elyesee for the very first time. To this day I remember the feel of the heat, the flowers as I approached the Louvre and the deep blue French sky. My old friend followed from Spain, so I have company!

Sitting here on the grassy verge along side the approach to the Louvre I have the pleasure of watching families enjoy an evening picnic on the grass, wine included! It's one of the special places and evening occurrences that makes this city what it is.

Tomorrow I've reserved the pleasure of an early morning walk along this famous way, where conquering armies have paraded and where the Tour de France has concluded the last 101 years. I'll be home in time for the excitement of the start of that annual race! It will feel all the more real this year, having just returned from here. 

This evening I left my dark little hovel and ventured out to find the World Cup, a glass of good French wine and some dinner. I found all three. The Orange from the Netherlands were brilliant in their win over Chile and Spain finally won as well (sorry my Aussie friends!). Ariel and Puck...wasn't that a great game?! I'll be home for the round of 16, and looking forward to it. Although it will mean that I have again departed these shores. Next year will come soon enough and time to think about what that will look like. Will it be cycling or walking...or maybe even both? One is only young enough to do these things for so long, so I intend to make the most of it while I can...ready Amnemarie?

A never ending stream of people parade by...it's amazing. I've been out walking and seen almost no one for weeks. Now I understand...they were all here!

Still on a Pilgrimage...Of Sorts:

This morning with a plan in mind I put my Camino Boots back on.  I had a walk to do...a pilgrimage of sorts. Something I have thought of doing for many years. Now on my own in Paris for the first time, I have the time and the opportunity. For the past 2 hours I have walked from the Louvre to the Defence Arc...the length of the three arches down the Champs Eleysee. 

Along the way I've seen many things...most of what stands out is the different people...some have more, most have less. In the background, or depending on your perspective, perhaps in the foreground is the stuff. Stores and stores of it...brand name stuff. Stuff I wonder if we really need, but it's the way it is. Mostly just regular folk out to see and walk a famous land mark. Quite a few street people tucked into the landscape as well...something a bit newer, or perhaps more visible than last time I was here...maybe I'm just more observant now. It was great, and frightening at the same time. Having come from a journey of simple walking, it is an intensive experience. 

I found myself passing through a number of zones as I proceeded. The tourist zone, then that mixed with the Armani zone which then transitioned into an area of the expensively dressed and the tres chic. A fellow walker...

From there it was back into the tourist zone as I approached the Arc de Triumph...the Asians are pretty funny with the photos they line up in the middle of the road in front of the Arc to take of each other. I haven't seen that one before:-)

Then it was into a no mans type of land scape. No wealthy, no tourists, just local people going about their business. A tremendous amount of traffic, noise and pollution from the traffic.

At this point with some kilometres to go I pulled out my iPod and put on some soothing music, turned it up and turned inward. Amazing, I was back on Camino. My stride lengthened, my vision cleared and I was looking far ahead. I was back into my walking pace and in the zone.

When I arrived the whole area was pretty futuristic...cool but not my favorite. The Arch is very cool!

I walked the Seine back to the Louvre spending as much time on the lower embankment as I could...the usual sights plus a few...

I had a bit of fun with a woman who tried to play a scam on me...must be my hat? An oldie but goodie...she appears to pick up a nice heavy gold ring off the walk way and then insists that because it's much too big for her finger that I take it. We shake hands (I check...all fingers attached), I say good bye and walk off at my usual brisk pace. I hear her call me from behind...she is running by now to try and catch up. I turn and smile then leave the ring on the guard rail and walk on. I've seen it before in Egypt. It's the I give you a gift...you give me a gift game. It was more fun the way I played it:)

Annemarie...our fountain! Where were you?

A major Camino route begins in Paris as well. Walk on...

Bordeaux: Hot and Muggy

Bordeaux, An Afternoon to Wander:

I'm so confused. After checking in to my nice little hotel and answering emails and stuff, off I went to find that I'm in an area just off the sex shops and places like that, but far enough outside that I think it's fine and as I said, the place is ok. I walked along the river and into town...the river is very high and very brown. We never found the centre of town last visit, but I have this time. My body is still on Spanish time after all those weeks and off I merrily went looking for lunch only to find that at after 2pm the restaurants won't serve you. No luck any where along the river...and the prices! So I head into town and find a place full of young folks meaning cheap, but it's €20 but for a massive brunch...so I'm set. No need for an expensive dinner tonight, so I can a average down. The life of a pensioner! So far bread and jam with water, tea and a nice glass of white wine has founds it's way to my table, and there is promise of much more.

I'll be stuffed, but I haven't had more than a banana and granola bar this morning before the train, so I'm hungry. It's great! The only unfortunate issue is that all these young people, particularly the women appear to smoke. So much of that here...so deeply embedded in the culture...sad. 

It's very hot here, I'm surprised. And the humidity level this close to the ocean is high as well. Good news is the heat has little effect on me after all the weeks in it and I'm well tanned now, so less issue with the sun. I'm enjoying each day so much now that I've found my way into the travel zone. I realize home is on the horizon, but new adventures await and I know I don't have to wait a full year until I can fly again. I can go whenever it's time to go. Such freedom! It's great!

After lunch I'll wander a bit more and see what the centre of town holds. So far just lots of mono colour buildings which don't hold much interest. I think I'll have to get inside some of the buildings and see what I see, but that may not happen this visit. I feel like walking. Later I'll look for wifi and skype Annemarie who is going for dim sum with old friends. Then I'll find a gold drink and just enjoy some people watching. A nice way to spend a day.

That was excellent! Scrambled eggs with herbs, salad, real potatoes and bacon...it was after all brunch on a Sunday. Dessert is still to come. Funny how the world is the same all over. I have two tables of young women my daughter's age on both sides of me...a young healthy fellow runs past with just jogging shorts on, and all four sit up and say something like..."wow". We all laugh. It's a small world. 

Feeling much better now and this is a nice way to spend a Sunday afternoon, I must say! But those who understand, know this is my favourite day of the week...and now every day is Sunday:) can't get much better than this...can it? This has been an excellent retirement entry, and looking back I had to do this journey. It's opened the door to so many other possibilities. I can see us living in Europe for a year as we have always planned. It seems so doable now. Having travelled more with Germans has opened my mind to travel in  that country, particularly Bavaria, something that has been closed in my mind since a depressing visit to Dachau in 1975. There are new generations in Germany now, with new ideas and and perhaps more open minds than in past, or perhaps my mind has opened? I found stereo types of each country during my wanderings, but was more impressed with the commonalities I found, particularly between the younger ages. I must be getting old!

Spent the rest of the afternoon just walking the streets being in the moment. Walked into three large churches, each different, and yet the same.

The Cathedral was pretty good I thought. A few photos, then more walking as I found my way through town with a visit to a food store...a good one. 

Then back to my little place to connect home and to write some more.

Hotel...

Pensioner's meal to average down brunch...oh and breakfast is in there somewhere too!

Neil, I really liked your story about your staff...it must have broken your heart. It would have been one of the most difficult things to leave behind from your journey. Thanks for that story. Was it here?

Had I known, I would have spent more time finding the location for you.

Today I've travelled the rails to Paris and I'm staying in a small flat that takes me back to my student days. Annemarie found this for me...not sure what I did to her? ;-) sure hope she is more happy than that to see me home on Thursday! 

Only kidding, the price is still too high, but it's Paris so the price is good on that basis and it's an amazing location with no check out time from my room. This gives me a full two days to wander aimlessly, my favorite way to see a place I've been to many times before. Just a couple of blocks to the Louve and the River. On Wednesday evening I'll head out towards Charles De Gaul airport where I think David fixed me up with a hotel room that has a flush toilet;-).  I can vouch for the comfort of the bed as I just woke up from an hour nap...massive lightening and thunder stormed all night in my tiny hot room last night, so I was awake most of the night watching lightning flashes on the walls and covering my ears. The run up to Paris was interrupted by a police incident for several hours. We sat in Poitier and waited it out...while I wrote onwards. My ear is tuning to the new language, not to much of a reach considering my travel companions the past four weeks!

It's 6:20, time to go out and find a bar to watch Neil's football team get a thrashing from the frustrated Spanish team...and have a glass of good French wine too...Mais oui!!