Plakias, Crete: Hot, 33

Walking The Kourtalloti Gorge

Sunset over fisher folk.

Oddly today we woke up without much in the way of a clue as to what we were going to do today. We knew that we wanted to find a beach somewhere, and eat some Greek food, but that was about the extent of our plan. After the beautifully cooked rabbit I enjoyed last night I knew that I needed to walk somewhere this morning. So earlyish we rose and walked along the water front of Plakias, the small town where we are laying our heads for a couple of nights. A nice place, but seemingly well known to the German tourists.

We stopped at the bakery and picked up some nice fresh pastries for breakfast and then finally decided it was time to hit the road. We'd heard about a monastery called Pisso Moni Preveli which had some interesting history, and deciding that this would be a good place to begin we headed in that direction. Turns out that it is a fairly key place in this part of Crete having played a huge roll historically in the development of Christianity in these parts. Somewhat more recently the monastery played a very important part during WW II. I took these photos for our Aussie mates.

As I said, lots of recent history, and we have seen rememberance squares all over Crete with the names of so many who lost their lives at that time. The Reverend Father was apparently safely evacuated before he was captured. The story would make a good movie. After several days of wandering these shores, I have to say that the fighting here would have been equally gruesome for both invader and defender. It's so very rugged and hot. However, all that is history and we moved on to see the monastery. 

Annemarie with an unlikely friend. She attracts them like the strays they are!

At the monastery museum we learned that there was a good bridge in the area constructed during the Turkish occupation in the 1800's. Always up for a good bridge (right Rob?) and knowing that Neil and Sarah collect photos of these types of structures, we decided to try and find it. And we did!

By chance it crosses the only surface water on Crete that flows year round. They call it a river, but really, by Canadian standards you might call it a good stream:) While there Annemarie remembered reading that there is a good hiking trail along the stream, er, river. So we decided to wander along it in spite of the heat to see if it would take us down to the promised beach at the mouth of the river. We'd read about this beach at home, but because we didn't plan any of our sight seeing ahead of time, we didn't realize that this was the same beach. We didn't even know we were in the right area of Crete! Luck of Irish eh Paul?! So off we went beginning somewhere in the green belt to the left of this photo.

Now you might think that we'd be walking along in this beautiful green belt. We certainly did. But nope, we ended up climbing up into the hot, very hot, dry scrub. Hot and dusty! 

Neil and Sarah and Barbara would have felt right at home, well except there weren't any kangaroos, poisonous snakes, echidnas or dingos here!

The green belt was to our right and quickly became smaller and smaller as we moved downstream towards the Med. The climb ahead as we walked just above the 'river'.
At some point we missed the trail. I saw it and intuitively I knew it was the right way to go, but there were other opinions proposed so we went onwards...
...but it quickly became apparent that we were going the way of the sheep! We decided to press on any way and see where our feet took us. A very free way to walk, without trail and constraints. Love it! At this point they were still smiling...a good thing:)

But it became a bit tougher in the heat...but still they slogged onwards.

At some point the ladies told me to go ahead and see what the summit told me. It really was screaming hot out there, so off I trucked. Amazingly I cut the  original trail and found this view.
The trail down from here pretty much dropped off this cliff.

So knowing my trekking crew, I decided that this just wasn't going to happen this day, and of course I was right! So we followed the actual trail back, thus providing ourselves with the better part of a circular route.
We passed by one of about 15 small churches in the greater area that were supported by the main monastery. Look closely to the right centre. What a rough life they must have lived. Real dedication.
A resting, down and out sheep on the way out!
After a long hot day, we found our way to another beach with a simple tavern and some cold refreshing drinks and salad. Don't feel too badly for us as this was our view!
And we ended up spending the remainder of our afternoon here cooling off in the turquoise soothing waters of the Med! 

Tomorrow we move on up to the north coast. Wonder what's happening there? Cool temperatures in the high 20's predicted...that's cool after the last three days! 

Firostafini, Santorini: 23 kms, Sun, Sun, Sun! Humid too, 33

Walking The Crater's Edge!

Sunset last night from our cave house.

Last night as we planned our next day, Kathy decided that she would like to have a quiet morning. Good idea. Annemarie and I proceeded to prepare for a walk we'd read about at home. And after a very good dinner...from our restaurant.

We decided to get up early and start before the sun was too high in the sky. The walk is about 12 kms to Oia and runs as the title of this post suggests, along the crater rim. Our plan was to walk to Oia at the far end of the crater, have breakfast and walk back. And that's just what we did. We carried light day packs with our hydration because we knew it would be hot and some of the walking a bit steep. The early morning light was as gentle as expected and the air was still. A perfect beginning. The cruise ship fleet was just beginning to arrive, no doubt serving early breakfast aboard.

Our destination, 

The trail passes through three of the original towns. However, with all the hotel and tourist developments, for the first few kilometres it's hard to tell where one original village begins and another ends. Even the locals have been heard to say that things are getting a big over-built. It seems that the island is almost at a tipping point, but that's not the purpose of this post. You can see the trail running along the ridge line.

View back to the south west showing the gentler side of the island. No swimming beaches any longer as they have all been closed after I believe several drownings occurred at black sand beach. I swam there in 1975 and it was just fine, but things change.

One of the pretty little churches along the walk. There were perhaps 8 churches. 

View from the last climb...breakfast is just ahead!

Our breakfast view...from the lady's bathroom. Almost beats that Melbourne view from the men's bathroom!

Our actual breakfast view!

The walk back was hot and steamy with more climbing. The same route seen from a slightly different perspective.

For those not quite prepared for the rigours of the road! They carry you up the last climb...for a fat fee!

There are a million weddings happening here, all the time, every day. Talk about expensive destination weddings! As we got back into town we heard the song I Raise You Up. A good thing to hear at the end of a long hot stage! Carried us most of the way home. Almost!

Walking the ridge trail in 1975 with my sister.

Sifnos, Greece: Hot, Hazy, 32

Finally, Walking In Greece!

Having transferred from Milos Island to Sifnos it was time to enjoy what we had come here to do...walk! Sifnos is one of the few Greek Islands that has taken the time to setup a series of formal walking trails, totalling over 100 kms. The trails have been developed by professionals, are well marked with the red and white of GR routes and take one along trails that have crisscrossed this ancient land for ever. The routes cover the island and one can change routes on the go to get to the desired destination. Today we walked from Artemonas where we have centred ourselves and walked to Faros and then on to the Chrisopigi Monastery. Looking fresh at the beginning...that wasn't to last as we started at the seemingly late hour of 10:00. Don't ask...

We started on Route 1 heading for Kastro on the coast...we are staying in the mountains where most of the Greek island inhabitants reside. pew passes by one of the many windmills on the island, usually a striking white and blue.

That's Kastro in the distance, seemingly downhill! A good thing because the trails are all exposed and very hot.

The trails range from pretty well groomed to quite rough, and yes, loads of stairs. I hate stairs....

In some respects it looks a little like walking in Galicia without the trees or rain. And did I say that it's hot?! We descended down to a local agios (church), had a nice look see and moved on.

There are beautiful small churches along the entire route, many of which sit on cliffs above the Aegean Sea. 

This one is back in the distance behind the ladies.

We arrive at Kastro to see the small churches on the sea.

After climbing up through the town this is the view.

And then having come this far of course you have to walk down to see the church...and of course back up. Did I say it was hot?

Afterwards, we headed in this direction, changing to Route 2. 

And of course we made many new friends enroute! This guy told us that he loves Canada. I returned the love about Greece!

More friends!

And we know this guy with the occasional selfie:)   I think I looked a little like this in Japan!

We walked and we walked. Did I mention that it was HOT!

Then we found ourselves very close. Faro down below and the monastery a way to the right a few more kilometres onwards.

On the way out to the monastery...

Before heading out the monastery we stopped at a very traditional taverna for a light lunch right on the beach! Then out we went, Geoff finding an unlikely place to put on his swimsuit! 

Then we figured that we may as well swim off the rocks rather than the beach. It was excellent after the day of walking. We figured there was no way we could rent any of the huge boats at anchor! 

Then cooled down and changed we walked back to Faros for the traditional celebration!

Followed by the traditional push and punch your way in to a Greek bus and a return to have a good shower and wash some clothes. Sounds rather familiar! Now finish posting this and it's off to the festival again to eat and drink a bit more!