Monday, June 29, 2020

Olveiroa - Cée 19 kms

On Reaching The Ocean

We enjoyed several nice walks while in Vancouver along the waterfront and into Stanley Park. It was certainly nice to walk somewhere else for a change! Here are a few photos from those walks.


Dad, I know you’ll enjoy this shot.







Annemarie with our daughter Caitlin almost 7 months into her first pregnancy carrying 'our pal'. We are all looking forward to late September and hope that Paul's parents will be able to be here from Ireland to share in the excitement. Fingers crossed!



The heron nests in Stanley Park. A clear reminder of the stork nests along the camino.



This small chick got a little far from Mom.








Meanwhile, on our vitual camino we edge ever closer to Finisterre. Last night we enjoyed a Zoom call with Sarah and Neil, and they were of the opinion that Annemarie and I had already walked the 880 kms necessary to make it to Finisterre. In other words the camino must be over. At 1040 kms we have indeed overshot Finisterre, but I explained that the camino wasn't over until I'd blogged it; )  Honestly, as I see it we have just a little ways left to go.

In 2014 it was an amazingly warm day considering how poor the weather was the prior fall for Ken, Sarah and Neil. I must say on both of my walks into Finisterre the weather has basically held. In 2014 hot and sunny and in 2016 with Annemarie after walking the Camino Dos Faros it was grey overcast, but at least not raining.

I really only have good memories of the 2014 walk once I neared the coast. There's a long gently rising plateau with rolling hills most of the way.



Walking a long day I'd left most of the other pilgrims far behind and I remember enjoying the freedom of the road once again with just occasional friendly encounters along the way. Much like the entire journey from Seville to Santiago had been. As I've written previously I often prefer walking solo as long as there's company to be had at the end of the day. That said, it's nice to have Annemarie's company on quieter routes, particularly when she's in the mood for a long camino.

Early summer flowers inspired me onwards with their multiple vibrant colours.

Just 11 kms out at this point.  Nice to see that the route is a GR marked trail as well. I didn't know at the time what the red and white markers represented, but having walked many GR routes I now have a nice comfort level when I see them.

Right in the middle of the road! I've seen this a few time during my wanders and nice to think that historical preservation comes ahead of our modern world, but I bet it's surprised a few drivers late at night.

After the long slow climb to the headland the downward slope begins to show up slightly.

And then there it is. The Atlantic!

Downhill all the way to Cée. A most pleasing sight at the end of a long day. Thirty-forty minutes to a long cold drink!







The long look ahead to the route on the last stage. A walk up the the curved piece of road behind the last beach on the left.

I'll be walking along that waterfront promenade in the morning.



Peregrinos wearing jeans on the camino. Mind boggling, but I've seen it many times. It might have been better to sacrifice them on Stage One!!

What a nice town to arrive into. At the end of 40 kms, hanging out on the beach didn't really pull me. A cold shower and an even colder beer called louder!





I remember staying in yet another anonymous accommodation, but grateful for the cheap bed. I don't even remember my meal that night, too excited about the final stage to come.

Ken's journal comments;


  Beautiful day, sun, only a small rain squall this morning, lovely walk over moor and through forest, challenging descent. Got lost, or thought we were lost, on way to albergue that looked good. Lots of room here, not crowded, might be a communal dinner, which would be great if more people arrive. 
The company was good today but I will enjoy being alone in my thoughts tomorrow. Or with my thoughts. I’m very glad I didn’t try to do all 30 km in one day--it’s too much and as usual Brierley is wrong to recommend it. I was exhausted yesterday, my calf hurt, which worried me because I still have 50 km to go, around the cape and to Muxía and I can’t get hurt now--and going 30 km day after day is a way to get hurt.


Next time I post it will be at the end of the road...literally! The ancients called it the end of the world.

Buen Camino!

PS. Today the EU announced that flights to/from Canada will now resume. I sort of looked over towards Annemarie and after a short hesitation she said that if I wanted to that I could go walk the Francigena: )  I'm not saying that I'm going, but at least the door in my world opened a small crack today.

My friends John and Cordula are presently walking the Via Baltica across Germany from the Polish border to their town close to the Dutch border. This route continues all the way to Santiago some 3400 kms down the road. They plan to walk it over a series of years wild camping from time to time. John is 72 years old and carries a tent. Impressive. They tell me that it's going very well with minimal impact from Covid. Of course that's in Germany where things have been pretty good and the virus has been well managed.

Friday, June 26, 2020

Negreira - Olveiroa, 33 kms

Getting Closer to the Coast

We've been coming and going lately with the phase 3 reopening and the fact that there has only been a single new covid case on our island in the past 5 weeks. As a result I haven't been able to update the virtual blog, though we have been walking Quite a bit. I thought I’d start with random photos from our many recent walks.















Relaxing by our veggie garden yesterday afternoon.




On the virtual Camino here are a few photos from June 2014 taken after walking the Plata. I have no memory of our destination tonight as I walked through in 2014 without stopping and walked onwards  another 16 kms to Cée on the Atlantic coast. Fortunately Ken stopped here and has sent me his memories for his stage walked in October 2013. I've posted these after the photos.

I do remember it being very hot and that there was way too much road walking which was hard on my road hardened feet. Not enough for any blisters this late into a long distance 1,100+ km journey, but tough nonetheless. It was a 40 km stage which would have added to things. These covid days I’d happily walk that far if I could be tramping along a camino now: ) I would have been in northern Italy presently, 4 weeks from Rome. Today I started an online planning file for 2021, lol! 











Lots of typical Galician buildings.











This was the unusual gallery cemetery with bell tower located about 4 kms before our evening destination.

Almost in.

Ken's notes from staying in Olveiroa;

I was grumpy yesterday evening, but it fixed my mood by getting involved: someone (Mallory) proposed a communal dinner and I walked down to the store to help carry supplies, including wine, which I donated (€10, why not?). It was great fun helping cook, eating the good food, including the cake the Italian guys put together--it was just great. I’m so grateful for that.
But I’m staying at a private albergue tonight for two reasons. One, I’m hoping to meet Kathy here and find out about her trip to the dolmens. Two, there was no toilet paper at the municipal last night and the hospitalera really didn’t care. It bothered me, even though I had enough of my own. It’s not right. For 6 more Euros, I got toilet paper and an attached bar, where I’m writing this. 
Grateful that it only drizzled today instead of storming--a serious rain with that wind would’ve been awful. Grateful that there’s internet here. That I have a bed. That I got to walk with Alan: the conversation was enjoyable and the company helped keep me going. 
Grateful that the way I adjusted my pack this morning made it more comfortable, for the cafés along the way, even though my map says expect no services, for the promise of a meal here tonight.
I don’t know if I want to walk back, though; this is taking most of my strength, and tomorrow is another long day demanding an early start etc. Any day over 30 km isn’t fun.

Buen Camino!