Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Stage 11: Chantada - Rodeiro, 26 kms, Sunny 24, but cold and cloudy early.

"Asleep on Walking Feet"

When we arrived yesterday after a long tough end of day to find that we couldn't gain access to our accommodation we were forced to hang out with our gear for about 3 hours. In the bigger scheme of things this wasn't a major moment. However at the end of a walking day time to restore body and mind is almost as important as finding food. So we missed our restorative time to nap or just hang out.

However, we did find food last night at an excellent restaurant! After all it was my anniversary, and just because I couldn't spend it with Annemarie... As my pal David put it, "wrong partner"! Oh well, Rob was great company as we ordered food and a bottle of very good local vino tinto. 
You can almost pick up the nose on this wine through the blog, can't you?! Followed by an excellent plate of calamari and then by a plate of fish.

Even the frites were good...
And then because it was a special occasion we ordered postres (we do most nights)...every night is a special occasion. Oddest cheese cake ever, but somehow it worked! Rob had whiskey over ice cream cake...good choice!
We then went for a walk to settle all this food, we'd been eating on and off since 15:00. We wandered the festival site, which was every street in the downtown core, before heading back to our hostel after 23:00 to get a few hours sleep before walking out again.
Before we departed this morning we ate the picnic breakfast the hostel arranged for us when they found we were leaving early...given also we had been left waiting yesterday. Yogurt, juice and brownies which we took to snack today. Nice touch.

I knew almost immediately that Rob was not himself. True he hadn't had a coffee in two days, but then I'd not had a green tea in three days, so no complaints. But clearly something wasn't right. Anyway, as usual we set off into the dark and passed numerous revellers still out on the street at 6:30! It's been a long time since I made it through a night like that...no kidding. 

We left the lights of the city and turned on our head lights to try and see what route indicators there might be. There were very few. We came to a cross roads in the dark with the arrow suggesting that we continue onwards, but as we wandered into a small hamlet we were approached by 3 or 4 pretty aggressive dogs. I hardly blame them. Here we are, two odd looking guys they don't know with goofy head lamps on top of goofy hats complete with poles and speaking a foreign language. I turned to discuss options with Rob, but he was already 20 metres back down the road and picking up speed. Gee, thanks. I made my apologies and followed...as did the dogs. We finally left them behind and found our way in the dark up an alternate country road and eventually managed to pick up the route again at some point. For a time Rob seemed to be moving pretty good after that!

It wasn't long before I noticed a distinct change in his pace, like he was having trouble getting out of first gear. "I'm weary today". No problem. We were up late after some long stages and we didn't have any down time. These things happen on Camino and we've all been there. 
As we approached  the 2,300' climb up O Faro Mountain I suggested that there was tons of cloud up top and as it wasn't a part of the original Camino route I'd be ok with trying to by-pass the climb. We both liked this decision! 
In my winter research I'd learned that the local Amigos of the Camino had marked a variant route with about half the climbing. So while we looked at my information in a cold early wind and scratched the ear of a nice dog we made the decision to change our planned route. Both of us were ok with the decision. 
 We took more breaks today.
Visited with the locals.
Geoff having fun trying to chat with a very nice local lady who was interested in our journey. Probably understood half of what she said. However, many locals are interested and supportive. 
Caitlin...more pals!
And then we began the climb of the day up to the mills on the high ridge where we connected with the trail coming down off O Faro. 
As we climbed the sun started to come out and it began to warm. We had more challenges with dogs along the way, but nothing like this morning. Even your biscuits wouldn't have helped Ken. 

As I said we found the mills at the top...very impressive up close as we walked the road underneath.

Then after an apple break we headed sharply downhill as several fighter jets buzzed in low overhead. Very cool...no photos. 

 
And then we  were down is the most beautiful country side...Rob told me afterwards that he didn't even see it. Head down, fighting it out to the end. He did great to get in...and as he said, what's the option?

Other perigrinos...they followed us.
Then we arrived. We had some food, washed out clothes and finally napped. This is why this post is late. We both needed a time to recover. Tomorrow should be better. Three more stages and tomorrow we will break the spine on the Invierno as we complete this Camino route and move into the Sabreses for the last two days. I know my way home to Santiago from there...I've seen it all before.

The dos peregrinos rest. Rob has recovered and is joking again...restorative time. So important. Oh, and he had his coffee at 18:00!
 Safe journey Annemarie. See you Saturday!!

Buen Camino!

Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Stage 10: Monforte - Chantada, 30 kms, fog and sun, 28

Hard Road, Tough Descent, Nasty Climb! Beautiful Vistas!
(Note: we arrived in at 14:30 to find a city holiday and our hostel closed until 18:00. Not great after a long hot day, but this is the Invierno, not the Frances. We have found all sorts of things quite different along this route given the absence of perigrinos. As such, I will do what I can on the blog and get it posted)

We headed out of town early as usual in the dark. Managed to get lost for a while, but passed over a Roman bridge on the way out. Poor signage was the culprit...well known problem.
A very cool start and the sunrise did little to change this. There was lots of ground fog that held the cool air down.
Sunrise was pretty cool!
The Hard Road:

We experienced a long walk on very hard pavement today (it's always hard) that we were not anticipating. This can quickly tire the feet and generate excess heat in the boot...creating the perfect environment for blisters. Fortunately our feet were well prepared and neither of us experienced blisters...today. The fog kept rolling in and out as we walked.

As always walking in the fog is pretty amazing! As it cleared and the sun came out, so did the heat, but we often had the shade of some beautiful trees...sometimes they were across the road!
We did have some dog encounters...this one we laughed at and we told it to buzz off! Out of its league. 
At one point I almost stepped on a couple of big dogs sleeping by the side of the road. Don't know how they didn't hear me! I signalled Rob to the other side of the road, and they only woke after we'd passed by. Lucky! Lots of dogs along this route. Some nice, most just aggressively bark. The cows as always were much nicer...for you Caitlin.

We eventually made it to the 100.3 km to Santiago marker and paused for photos...

only to find the 100 km marker just around the corner. Must have been a sale on where they ordered them! We got smarter this time...one photo!

Tough Descent:
We popped over to see a very old church, VII Century Romanesque church.

Very cool, and they had a nice peep hole to see that it's still in use.
Then, for once on a trail, we descended to the river. Rob on the Roman road...paved in rock much of the way...hmmm, almost like walking on the hard road!
Very steep, very hard on knees. Poles were great!
 
The views stunning. 


I've been fortunate to see many beautiful wine areas of Europe in Italy, France, Croatia, Germany and Portugal. This stands up well to any of those places beauty wise. You be the judge.
No tour buses in sight...mass tourism wise, undiscovered! Wonder how long that will be?

I understood there to be a bar for drinks at the bottom of the descent. We'd walked 5.5 hours by this point and I'd promised Rob coffee, but they were closed until 13:30. A little dejected, we walked away and across the bridge.




Nasty Climb!

What goes down, must go up...in walking terms, unfortunately. The climb up was sun exposed, long and very steep. My hat was so sweaty and dirty, even Rob suggested I clean it! I washed it all before I left! I may wash it in Santiago when we have a rest day. It will need time to dry. Until then...
Anyway, back to the climb! Did I say it was hot, steep and that it sucked? 
It was also stunningly beautiful when we stopped to suck in as much oxygen as possible!

The trail hasn't been used very much in parts and we got stung by something green on the way through.

Once we left the valley we continued to climb.
By the time we were out, we were both done! Three kms into town...
Only to find the hotel and town closed down for a holiday and festival. So we sat in a bar outside eating and drinking to rehydrate...the beers helped. The festival begins tonight after 23:00 and will run into the wee hours. I'm sure we will see lots of it!

I would be remiss not to say Happy Anniversary to my sweetie, Annemarie. It's the first time in 36 years we've missed one together! I hurried in to Cahors, France last year on the same day to meet her train and surprise her, but with still a long way to walk before reaching Santiago that won't happen this time. Besides, she is still at home and flying across tomorrow. Will see you Saturday afternoon and we will find a nice spot for dinner in Santiago! Safe travels! Here's some nice flowers for you! XX

Buen Camino!