Camino 2016 - 7 Weeks, Make No Mistake, We Are Counting!

Time Marches On - But Am I? 

With just 7 weeks to go until I depart for Spain you'd think I'd be hard at the training thing by now. Ya, me too. But not really. I tell myself that I'm experienced now and am just taking a more tactical, strategic approach this time round. That sounds pretty good, so of course that must be it?! The reality is that several things have slowed the process. We had Annemarie's never ending 60th birthday celebrations through the last half of May and into June...thankfully these eventually ended!  We also included a road trip to Vancouver to see Caitlin graduate from UBC at the top of her nursing class...very special for her!

And to see Paul Simon...good, but not quite as special.

Of course there was the excellent kayaking trip with Rob which was endless fun.

Then I needed a week to learn how to stand upright again...I was feeling a little ape-like, even Cro-magnonish after all the hours in my kayak. Rob told me that this sensation would eventually go away and I noticed this at the gym on Monday morning. A relief because my knuckles were getting a bit kicked up. There was also a very nice time with Paul's family who are visiting all the way from Ireland, Father's Day and the mental preparation for the Canada Day long weekend...how to avoid all those working people on a vacation Friday! Then there have been a few of the usual long term injuries that have dogged me since returning from out travels, but they're boring so that's all I'll say about that subject, except to say that I'm working hard to have these sorted soon...will know better by July 16th. 

Of course I also got caught up following my friend Ken's walk and blog as he traversed the Haldimand Tract in Ontario for an excellent cause, and together with reading a hilarious book called "A Walk In The Woods" I killed another couple of weeks. So you can easily see how things have gotten in the way and dragged on.

The reality is that I just want to head off for a good long walk, but not particularly around here. I need new vistas, people, culture and adventures. New smells (cow paddocks), the answer to deepquestions (why are all trails uphill?), irregular sounds outside my window in the morning (cooing pigeons) and inside (snoring peregrinos) and new daily anticipations (what time will the first head light come on in the dorm?), the unknown (is there a line up for the toilet?...please don't let there be). I love Victoria, but except for a few unfortunate arson fires lately, it's generally been rather quiet. Actually one of my favourite things about this lovely off the radar city...the quietness, not the arson. But it is time to leave here for a time...to return and appreciate this beautiful place all over again!

So what are we doing this year? Well, on paper it looks like a lot of fun. In reality, it should be a lot of fun too! My friend Rob of kayaking trip fame will fly out with me on August 18th by way of Vancouver and Toronto to Madrid. We will arrive there at 7:55 AM on the 19th and find our bleary way into metropolitan Madrid Charmartin Station where we will hop a train to Leon, strategically located on the Camino Frances.  After a couple of days to get use to the August heat (34 there today!) we will walk four stages to Ponferrada where we will leave the busy Frances and head off southwest across the seldom walked Camino de Invierno (see map above). This translates to "The Winter Camino" and I'll cover the route in a future post. This "crossing", that's a kayaking term Rob taught me, will take 14 days and is just shy of 400 kms. 

Annemarie will be waiting for us in Santiago. Rob will head home to do something he loves...that sound better Rob? Annemarie and I will head NW to the small town of Malpica (we don't even know how to get there yet) where we will begin a southward coastal journey along the Camino Dos Faros, The Camino of The Two Lighthouses. It's a new, less known route which looks fascinating. The journey will take 8 days and is about 210 kms long, with 52 beaches to cross and about as many headlands to climb and descend. There is little infrastructure along the way and we have had to pre-book our accommodations and will use a few taxis to get to and from a few of the trail heads. There isn't a guide for this route so I have spent many hours constructing walking notes complete with profiles and maps. Fortunately there is a very good Spanish website. The Dos Faros ends in Finsterre where the three day Camino from Santiago completes which I walked after the Via de la Plata in 2014. 

From Finistere we will travel south by train and bus to Portugal and have a rest day or two in Porto, a city we have long wanted to visit. We will then travel further south to the medieval university city of Coimbra to meet up with our close Aussie friends Sarah and Neil who we originally met while on the Camino Frances in 2013 and who so warmly welcomed us to their home in Canberra last year. You might recall the bush walks...complete with kangaroos, deadly snakes, a dingo and a few other odd marsupials. Neil and Sarah will start in Lisbon 8 days earlier and we will have a grand reunion in Coimbra and then walk north along the Caminho Portugues through Porto and back up to Santiago. A journey of 385 kms over 15 stages plus a rest day in Porto. Neil will be visiting us here in Victoria in early August and we are pretty excited about that! Time to compare Caminho notes, make a few plans and go for a walk or two! 

So lots of fun ahead and yes, I will have to get walking a bit more seriously...soon, but not today. I think the last 4 weeks will be enough. I certainly hope so. I expect to post a few lead up comments as we get closer. Really cool things like pack gear/weight, boot details (sorry Bryan) and sundry other really exciting things...yawn. Stay tuned!
Buen Camino and Bon Caminho!!

PS. The post looks a bit weird as I'm having a small posting problem...sheesh!

Day 7: North Pender and Home, Sunny with wind. 17, 9 nautical miles (18kms)

Finally...A Shower!!!!

Sitting on the beach on our walking and rest day Rob suggested that we were close enough to get home in a day and wondered if I wanted to do so. I replied that I was enjoying the experience and would like to continue onwards. Rob seemed ok with this and actually pleased to stay out another day. We goofed of the remainder of the afternoon enjoying some stretching of tired limbs and joints...

 Shocking out the wild life...

Enjoying a few refreshments while reading a funny book...those aren't our tents.

Figuring out various features of Geoff's camera...still hydrating with something good...

And appreciating the local flowers...

It was clearly a rough, exhausting day sitting on the beach (Neil, we do have nice sandy beaches here too). The next morning (yesterday) we were up early and Rob checked out the weather which indicated that the evening and next day (today) was going to be wet and cold. We discussed matters and decided that arriving in the sun was ever so much better than packing up wet gear and paddling home in the cold rain. So we had an excellent breakfast, again, packed up, again and headed off into the sun. We had several crossings and with a bit of a chop I put my camera away to keep it safe from the salt water. A quick nature stop at Portland Island and then the last push back to Vancouver Island. 

We arrived in time for our pick-up and unloaded the kayaks, again, and moved all the gear up to the car as well as the kayaks for the last time. Rob used up the last of our water cleaning his feet...apparently an end of journey spiritual act:-)

And then for some reason he took exception to something I said!

We had a n excellent week. Rob put together a very well thought out plan for our journey. Excellent food, a great understanding of our route and possibilities along the way plus the patience to teach me, a relative newly, many of the finer points of kayaking. I feel like I've been on a week long comprehensive kayaking course. Thanks to Rob's knowledge and trip prep, it was an excellent experience. We also learned a little more about each other's personal quirks which will no doubt help with our upcoming Spanish Camino. We depart for Madrid two months today!!

Best part of the day...the shower when I arrived home!!! 

Ok, this blog now returns to all things walking!

Day 6: North Pender Island, 10 km walk, sunny 16

Turbidity & Tombolo!

Its been a pretty nice day here all things considered. Cool up in the trees where our camp is setup, we have largely lived on the beach where the sun usually has been warm enough and the vistas magnificent. 

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Unable to sleep late we were up and having tea on the beach pretty early sort of enjoying the cool early morning air. Looking across to Salt Spring Island and the main island there were some amazing cloud formations. 

As I write this later in the day, the massive clouds continue to float past in a similar trajectory dropping their rain load when it suits them. So far not here! 

While we waited for it to warm up we decided that we should walk into the National park and check out the lake then walk in search of drinking water as our supply is running a bit low. The lake walk was nice enough with some good hills to help get our lower limbs moving again...too much good food and wine! 

A cool swamp too...you know the type from movies?Wwhere the body is placed and never found.

We did eventually find water and the park ranger told us that the turbidity levels were good, but that we should boil it first. He also told us that he wouldn't be responsible if it poisoned us...no kidding, he said this. Turbidity...such a good word seldom used outside the realms of science.

Sitting at the beach having a meal of left overs...good left overs, I asked a Rob if he knew the word for the sand bar running out to the island.

To my surprise he did...a Tombolo. Ha! Impressive. Not many know the answer to this if it ever comes up. We will get along just fine in Spain.neil would have known this, but then he too was trained as a geographer. By the way Neil and Sarah, well done walking today in -7. Of course Ken would think that a winter heat wave had arrived in Regina!   Hey Ken, I caught up with you this morning. Two things; well done on getting your first photo of an actual person...of course she had walked Camino so she doesn't really count;-) What's with all the photos of dead critters? There's a story there. Enjoying your posts and I hope the blister heals quickly and that the beer is well chilled!  Thinking of you...well done!

Now to post this and get back to cloud gazing!

There's work to be done!

Days 4 & 5: Montague - Shingle Beach, N. Pender Island, Rain, Wind, finally sun! 17, 10 NM, 20 kms

This is my view as I sit here on a beautiful beach writing...pretty amazing huh?! 

We are on North Pender Island and I'm sitting here reflecting on the past two days while Rob catches a few zzz's. Clearly we have found our rhythm...Geoff blogs, Rob goes to sleep. Ha! We will get along just fine on Camino. We've already set up camp, had a beer or two and lunch and now I'm sitting on this great beach. Pretty perfect. Spectacular even!

Our stay on Galiano at Montague Harbour was memorable for a variety of reasons. We had the same camp for two consecutive nights, the weather was nice the first afternoon, cold and wet yesterday with lots of wind and an opportunity to let ourselves settle a little after the first 64 kms. It's been great and Rob has been a good teacher as I strive to learn more each day. I feel like I'm on a week long how-to kayaking course. The funny thing is that I actually am!

What a weather go round! We have had rain, sun and winds each day. The water has gone from smooth as silk to choppy and uneven. Add in the ferry waves today and it's been a real hodgepodge. A great way to be exposed to many things and to expand my limited experience. Rob has been the chef and that would make me the chief bottle washer! No problem with that. The food has been well planned and prepared by Rob...just excellent camp meals! 

I have even been the recipient of Rob's coveted cinnamon buns! 

We really do thought it out here! 

We managed to get out for a hike yesterday. It was very windy and cold at the camp yesterday...freezing actually. We managed 12 uphill kilometres to the Hummingbird pub where we picked up emails, had a great lunch, watched Portugal and Iceland play Eruo2016 football and charged our equipment as much as possible. 

We were offered a ride while on the road by a local couple. Very nice of them, but when we explained that we were on our way to the pub for lunch they agreed that it was probably a good idea to get a jump on wearing off the anticipated meal! Turns out they were right! We walked back in the rain and enjoyed the local scenery...   Only on the Gulf Islands!!

We spent the rest of the afternoon in our respective tents sleeping. It was so cold the night before that my light Camino bag couldn't keep me warm and sleep was patchy at best. After that Rob cooked us another great meal and by that time the wind was up and I was wearing most of my layers to keep warm. I finally gave into it and put on my long john base layer that I sleep in deciding that there's little point in freezing. We made hot tea after dinner and taking our folding mat chairs we crossed over to the west beach and arrived in time to catch the sun set. 

Excellent end to the day. We returned to camp which was again freezing and windy and using an empty wine skin and the iPad cover that Caitlin made for me out of Buffalo wool, a hot water bottle was developed and put in the end of my sleeping bag. I pulled on my wool cap, socks, base layer, fleece coat and crawled in with my hot water bottle. Toasty! 

This morning, better rested we were up relatively early (6:30) and packed our gear between light rain showers. The day looked more promising, but the weather forecast wasn't very promising. There had been a water funnel warning posted yesterday. Like I said, weird weather this week. Today the for caste was for rain showers, possible thunder and showers plus a risk of hail. Not west coast weather!! We headed off without rain on glass like water.

We followed some cliffs for a way taking our time as there was lots of sea life to see along the way...otters too!

Then as we waited for the huge ferries to pass...huge from way down here that is...the rain began and the cold air began to blow in from Georgia Straight. We are delighted that we didn't head out there as had been our plan yesterday. Too exposed and cold the next few days.

With the tide flooding and the current across the mouth of Active Pass we had some fun racing across after the two ferrys kicked up the water nicely! As we got to the other side it was a battle against the current to get around the point...but it was fun! The wind them kicked up a notch and the rain became heavier so I put my camera safely into a wet bag and from then on we just paddled along the shoreline of Mayne Island before crossing Navy Channel to North Pender. It was a fair paddle along this stretch and butts were getting ever more painful I can now reveal. Wow! Saw a nice seal colony along the way...camera out again for just a moment.

We were both pretty happy to get here and into dry clothes. Of course as we arrived the sun came out and has stayed out drying our gear and taking the dampness out of everything else.

A great lunch on the beach and then off to our respective beach spots...one to sleep, one to write. This life style is setting me up for my Camino. Strangely similar and yet different. We are thinking of staying at this new kayak camping area for two nights and hiking the island tomorrow. Will let you know what we decide. Having a great time! Neil, sorry to hear you have returned south to Ozzie winter again, and Ken looking forward to catching up on your last two days...trust all is well with you. Annemarie hoping you are having fun in Oregon!

Fall out of the boat with a sore bum, take a can of pain killer and wait 5 minutes!!

Day 3:: Wallace Is. - Montague Harbour Galiano Is., windy,, 17, mixed weather, 9 nautical miles (18kms)

Dead Stones and Sea Chop!

Today was a tale of many happenings. Our stop last night was something special. We had our little bay and point of land to ourselves except for when other kayakers wandered into camp and looked around most enviously. Did I say that the site was something special? Rob knew about it and we made a bee line there and as luck would have it we found it empty. A very memorable stop.

Today Rob was up at 5:30 banging around making coffee and lord know what else. He woke me up, so clearly he was doing lots, but I had no idea until I surfaced from my tent 45 minutes later to find that he had already taken his tent down and had packed all his gear into his dry bags. This guy has no concept of taking the pace a bit slower when on vacation! He has lots to learn from this retired guy! 

After a quick, but excellent breakfast of oatmeal smothered in friut, nuts and yogurt we loaded up the boats and found our way onto the water. As usual Rob was first launched. I got away from the shore just after him today as I had planned my seating and exit better this time and was finally able to move some gear from around my feet and into the hull storage. We are eating well!! I backed carefully out of the narrow passage and thinking that I'd earned a bit of praise the student paddled over to the master to be told that,"there are a few things for me to work on". Deflated. But what the heck, I'm learning in leaps and bounds and the grasshopper will work to impress the master as the week progresses. I mumble to myself, "just wait until the Camino. We'll soon see who's the grasshopper and whose Le Rabbit! Ha! We are having a brilliant time and there is really more to this process than you might think. P

We set off across Trincomal Channel at a gallop. The wind was picking up a little and there was rain lingering in both directions, from where we'd previously been and where we were headed. We were in one of those weather bubble places that Annemarie and I refer to while on Camino. Just on the edge of wetness! We crossed to Galiano Island and followed some amazing cliffs. We paddled just a couple of meters off shore to stay out of the growing wind and to see what there was to see.

As we plodded along I again found my mind wandering as it does when I walk. I'm sort of seeing what needs to be seen in the moment, but my mind is so very far away. A paddling meditation if you like. Today I was focusing on a few personal things and then I began to see the rocks at the bottom of the cliffs littering the shore as we passed. The geographer inside figured out the processes which brought these rocks to where they lay, but my mind also took an unusual turn which carried the process to a different place. I guess I've always though of the earth as a living thing, the rocks and the soil as just a part of the whole. Today I began to see beyond this. The fallen discarded rocks are the equivalent of snake shedding its skin, a shark flaking off teeth as it grows, a crab discarding its shell. What if the fallen rocks represent a similar thing? Discarded as the earth grows, changes and adjusted...essentially "dead stones". Clearly the early kayaking today wasn't too challenging! 

We passed through Retreat Cove to find respite from the increasing wind and it was like a small weather oasis. The sun popped out and all was calm. I watch an eagle swing through the trees. It was beautiful. A humming bird came right up to my red jacket and just hovered ther...wow! Rob's reaction...hmmm.

This all ended quite suddenly as we exited cover. The wind had increased quite considerably and also changed direction so it was blowing from starboard. This resulted in quite the cross chop. Something you wouldn't really notice from any of the big yachts we saw, but from the lowly elevation of a kayak it was quite the experience! And it continued to get worse. The wave refraction from the cliff faces just made it more challenging forcing us further out into the channel. Rob gave me a few more pointers, relax your hips, brace as needed, continue to stoke, but all I think I heard him say was "there's no landings along this shore"!  

I have no pictures from this part of the trip. I'd tucked the camera into my spray jacket and was worried that I'd take a spill or something and then it would become so much junk. We found a small calm spot and I quickly put it into the dry bag I keep on deck for this purpose. Then I felt better and more relaxed. 

We made it to Montague and Rob told me that he found the experience not too challenging, but very tiring with the chop and wind. Of course he's sleeping yet again as I write. No stamina!! I was definitely butt weary.

We found the camping area and discovered that it was $25 per night...for two nights. Oh well, we haven't and won't have to pay for the rest of the trip, so we cost average down!! We also found 100 high school students here camping in the group site. I watched the pain on Rob's face. Excellent! We chose to set up by the harbour in the temporary overflow grass field. As I write this the kids are playing a loud game in the field and Rob has just emerged from his tent with the comment, "shouldn't recess be over now?". I figure it's good experience for him. I quite enjoy their presence as it brings back lots of good memories.

So we are here for two days. No wifi as its blocked forcing one to pay ransom to the area operators to purchase wifi which I refuse to do...too much like Oz and NZ where this is common robbery, I mean practice.

Apparently the summer bus that takes the yatchys and campers to the pub doesn't start to operate until the day we depart. Figures. The park operator told us that it's "SIX KILOMETRES" to the pub with "UP HILL" too. He has no idea who he's talking to. It will be a good outing and we both brought our boots. I've been sitting more than enough these past three days. Time to walk!! We hope to find wifi there and upload to the blog and send out a few emails. 

Great trip!!