The Great Ocean Walk, a poem by Annemarie

The "Great" Ocean Walk

There are words know by some as "gift" words, not lightly bestowed

Words like mentor, elder, leader, or other special descriptors I'm told

A monicker such as "great" would fit into this category

And I am now ready to agree that this walk has earned its title, here's my story

We set out the first day with 28 Kilometers to cover

Ending at the lighthouse at Cape Orway, with lots in between to discover

The first beach section took our breath away

With interesting terrain and powerful waves filled with ocean spray

Climbing into the eucalyptus forest where koalas might be sighted

We never saw one, but if we had we would have been delighted

We were greeted with scones and jam for our tea

Then escorted to the lighthouse keepers house (or what used to be)

It stormed through the night with the lighthouse standing guard

The weather the next day was perfect, and the terrain wasn't hard

More beautiful beaches, more waves to admire

More beautiful forests to traipse through, of these views we could never tire

It seemed on this day that we could never get enough of all that was on offer

At day's end we had a house to ourselves, we didn't suffer

The next day's start with yet another amazing beach

Led us to a climb that was a bit of a reach

Sliding backwards in the mud during the ascents

Our poles kept is on our feet during the descents

A rainbow with a black cloud background 

The ever growing swell, the roar of the waves an overpowering sound

Back inland we would track,

Where the view from the out house is a must to inspect

The storm came I with great force, 

Powerful wind and drenching rain (of course)

We made our way to our shelter for the night 

Soaked through to the skin, we were quite a sight

The power blew out, we watched the wind and rain increase

Our warm cozy candlelit dinner left us quite pleased

An early morning start so to facilitate a timely end of walk pick up

An easy walking day with only short showers causing barely a hiccup

Though the bush, up and down the headlands to a riverside town

Where we paused for a break, we had lots of time for a sit down

The on to the final destination where the apostles stand

A "high five" when we first glimpsed them, but we still had to walk a fair bit overland

The apostles are beautiful but the overwhelming number of tourists are a distraction 

Causing in us a less than positive reaction

We shot a few pictures but left as soon as we possibly could

We agreed that an early morning viewing with fewer tourists would be good

Driving back along the Great Ocean Drive, gave us a different view

With farmlands, rolling hills and valleys it was all quite new

So beyond the stunning scenery, what makes this walk earn the adjective "great"

We had the track to ourselves, with very little traffic, which I appreciate 

The track is well maintained, with a wide variety of terrain

To keep the experience fresh, and there's lots of wildlife to entertain 

The distances we covered were comfortable, we ended quite energized

I just loved this walk, how much I enjoyed it was a bit of a surprise

 

Great Ocean Track: Stage 5, The Gables to The 12 Apostles (actually 7.5!), 21 kms, cloud & rain cells & winds! 17

Dodging Bullits!

It was an early start to the morning as we were dropped to the trail at 7:40 am this morning. I wasn't too sure why they wanted us to head off so early as it's not a great distance and the track is dead easy today. Our pick up is at 3pm and so we sit here in a small cafe writing this just 7 kms from the end...it's only 11am. But the brownie and the tea are great, so contented for the moment. Above photo shows the town where we sit.

As we left in the near dark it was difficult to figure out what the weather would look like out the window, so we planned for rain. It had stormed through the night and we both slept restlessly, probably wondering what the day would bring as the GOW came to an end. I packed in the last of our Werthers, great cheek walking things!

Our host Andrew dropped us off at the start point and a look out towards the sea showed us what we were going to be up against today. Rain squalls were heading shoreward at an alarming pace! To quote the local jargon, "no worries!" (Sounds way better when the Aussies say it). We huddled under the small sign board as the first squall passed through. A good thing as we decided not to wear waterproof pants today, electing to remain in shorts.

As the walk progressed we found ourselves reminiscing about the bubble we sometime found while walking in the rain storms in Spain. Today was much the same...pick up the pace when a rain cell was spotted and slow down after wards.

At one point we took cover under some of the bush that populates this part of the track. It's quite amazing stuff, having been wind shaped and it's often so thick that a small overhang is enough to keep both the wind and rain at bay. Would have been nice to have had a bit of this in Spain!

As I walked along today, I began to think about how our bodies and minds had begun to sharpen up for distance walking. I've learned that it takes a few days to find my walking rhythm, including re-established the daily preparation process. It's been five days and we are totally there now. I've reached the point where my mind wanders freely where it will and Annemarie is moving along very nicely in her own space as evidenced by the flow of poetry that is beginning to appear...wherever that comes from!!?

The scenery today is a bit anticlimactic after the past few days, but we expected that given the massive headlands are behind us now. The wave are still huge and we were advised to stay off of Ship Wreck beach today as the walk there would be just too risky. So we stayed up above along the cliffs. Easier to find cover when the rain swept through.

We still have the Apostles ahead and hopefully the views will be good, but of course given the astonishing vistas we have already been treated to there will be no complaints. Clearly the journey is more than the ending on this walk...as it should be on all walks.

Will leave you with a few photos taken from one of the outhouses along the way...this is the view from the throne!

Through a window no less...great place to sit and write one's memoirs!

This would be looking back at said outhouse! Small building on the left cliff! Wouldn't want to miss it in the dark if you had to get up in the night!

And then there was eventually the walk to the Apostles...while there are only 7 remaining, we figure we saw enough sea stacks along the way to add up to the full 12.

Some contradictory signage...not sure if they want me to stop walking and jump, or?

First sighting of our destination...

The trail seemed to go on forever as is usually the case when you first see what you've walked so far to find! Life is like that.

Then suddenly you are there...

But wait...you have to walk several more kilometres to find the main event!

Quite the show! Has been on my mind since university days to arrive here. Unfortunately, mass tourism has exploited the site with bus after bus load arriving and it was quite the gong show after five days of peaceful walking with hardly a soul. I took no photos of humanity, just the tranquility...desperately hard to find at the end...

GOT: Stage 4, Milanesia Gate to The Gables, 17 kms, sun, rain with storm force winds! 15

Wild and Wooly!

OR

Sliding Downhill While Walking Uphill...What Gives?

What a night! The wind and rain pounded the house constantly and as we lay in bed this morning we started to talk about how we haven't really had a day off in 7 weeks...a day off travel that is! No tears required;-) Then the sun sort of poked through and we decided that perhaps we should get up and see what happens. 

Our host Andrew drove around downed trees and massive logging trucks to get us back to our starting position. On the way he told us the marine report indicated that there were eight to ten meter swells just off shore generated by the extreme low front and that we could expect some nice 4-5 meter shore waves today. 

We geared up for the rain and then it was off down the water logged trails covered in eucalyptus bark and branches from the storm. It had us reminiscing about our final few days walking into Santiago...same vegetation, same wet mess!

As we approached our only beach crossing, the sun miraculously came out for a time and there in front of us was a startling sight. Massive waves shown off all the better by the background storm clouds together with a conveniently positioned rainbow! A few of the many shots taken...I have better, but these will do until I return home.

I know my brother Don will have seen many such waves, but by any standard I think these are pretty impressive!

After the beach crossing the muddy climbs and descents began. Those of you who have walked the Frances and experienced the mud...imagine the same clay based mud, but this time add steep climbs and descents. Some fun. Thankfully we had our poles and in places there were some stairs, as much as I dislike them...this is such an odd photo...the more I look at it the stranger it appears, or is it just me?

At times it felt like upward progress against the wind wasn't to be forthcoming, but eventually we defied gravity. Believe me, the wind was howling here and the rain was beginning to fall.

For those who may one day walk this route, this stage is rated by the Park Service as hard, and there are many climbs, but we agreed that a better rating would be moderate...but fun!

Slowly we began started to feel that the sunny, windy weather would stay with us for a time. So we removed the rest of our rain gear. 

As we proceeded along, the views from the top of each headland were lovely with stormy seas in the distance.

However, the further we walked, the closer the storm seemed to get, and before we knew it we had to take shelter and pull on our wet gear once again. Good decision. From there on, the storm hit with a vengeance and we were having fun fighting the front-on horizontal wind and rain and...the resulting mud! It was sort of like skiing with our poles on the clay based mud! A bit fun actually. It was so wet I could only take a few photos.

The storm got so bad (read, exciting!) that we put our cameras away and decided to just gut it out the last 5 or 6 kms. When we crested the final hill, the wind nearly put us on our backsides! Perhaps 80-90 knots. What a show! We trudged back up the road to our B&B where we were greeted with a nice fire and so began the process of drying our gear! Most of my stuff stayed dry, but Annemarie's new coat didn't keep her dry and will be returned. 

The experience also confirmed for me the wet gear decisions made prior to our Caminos. A good poncho and gaiters. The hassles experienced putting coats and wet pants on over muddy boots and off again were enough to drive me a bit nuts! Also, after almost 7,000 kms of walking in Merrill Moabs the past 2 years, my recent decision to change to a better built boot, Solomons, was supported as they will be better in the mud and the wet likely to be around late this summer and through the fall in France and Spain. A more aggressive tread designed to clear the mud. This is in reality a note to self, just so I don't forget!!

The rain and storm continued on long after we arrived back, and dinner was made with the benefit of candle light as we had lost power, as apparently had most of SW Victoria State. We enjoyed the pleasant company of our acquaintances from the beginning of the walk, Andy and Sandra, who are a few years younger and experiencing the first experiences of impending empty nesting. They are a day behind us and will experience our slippery slopes tomorrow. Best of luck! In fairness, they didn't experience the storm that we had today as they were some 20 kms further back, and arrived at the B&B fairly dry and in tact. However, they both fell asleep on arrival for quite some time! No stamina;-)

A shot from out the window...not sure the waves of rain show, but they are there!

The power is still out and I have no wifi. So will close down now. A nice generally easier 21 km walk tomorrow to finish what has been a special journey. There is even a cafe to stop at along the way! Will post from either Apollo Bay or Melbourne on our return. 

Annemarie's take on the day...

We're Glad We Did

We lay snug in our bed listening to the storm through the night

As dawn was breaking the rain pounded the wind howled, giving us fright

We debated staying in this place of refuge, warm and secure

We almost made the decision to stay, it was a very strong lure

But then the sky started to lighten, we could see across the hills

We got ourselves ready and strengthened our will

It was dry as we drove to our starting point of departure 

Though a tree blocked the road, a sign strong winds for sure

Our path to the beach was muddy and slightly treacherous

We began to wonder what was ahead of us

As we stood to admire the waves with their rooster tails

A rainbow appeared, although it was quite pale

Still it was picturesque, as was the who scene in front of us

The sun streamed over our heads, we questioned our earlier fuss

We climbed for the views, each surpassing the one before

We were so pleased to be here, just to explore

The weather turned again, just past the halfway mark

Slipping our way through the mud became a bit of a lark

Still the vistas shone through for us to admire

Though there were many ascents and descents we didn't tire

The rain found its way back to us when we were near the end

The winds, too, returned, hitting us with force as we rounded the bend

Nearly back now, we knew steak and wine would be there to reward 

As we fought our way up the last climb, we drew on all the reserves we had stored

To be greeted by a warm fire upon our return

Grateful for all that the day brought, and all the lessons we learned

Great Ocean Track: Stage 3: Castle Cove to Milanesia Gate, 17 kms, sun, cloud 19

And Then the Damn Cell Went Dead!

I'm sitting here on my butt with some music playing in the background of my iPad as I write this...my customary beer some 20 kms away waiting for me at our B&B. So sad, but our phone died and needs a feeding. And we arrived here early, so must wait some 90 minutes for our ride...of course we all know that I take no responsibility for the cell phone;-). Clearly Annemarie is getting the hang of taking a few photos...

Today was much better weather than predicted! It was suppose to rain, but so far so good. This track keeps changing daily and it seems that we have left the clumsy, slow dune walking behind us with good trails and a spectacular, long stretch of beach to traverse.

The day began with a long steady climb away from Castle Cove...

And of course there were the requisite waves...still so good!

And the, ho hum, daily wallaby...just kidding. Still a kick!

The crossing to today's ho hum beach was a much more relaxing walk through the most beautiful, and for us, unusual plants...sort of like sea anenomies (no spell check for this!) on land...stunning!

Through an extremely sensitive ecosystem where we had to clean our boots at a Boot Cleaning Station before and after crossing.

Then there was the beach...not just any beach, but THE beach...

The tide was down and the walking was just amazing as the waves crashed ashore just a few meters away. It was again stunning and overwhelming! And we again had it all to ourselves!!

The beach wasn't just sand and waves...there were things like...sand dunes and shells and lots of animal tracks...

But clearly, it really was all about the waves...

This stage is very short, but there is a 300+ meter climb, so a bit of fun if you like to climb. We do:-) The views were lovely as hopefully these photos manage to illustrate.

Bird and animal life was evident. Many birds and we even saw four huge Brown Goshawks, but alas, no pictures to share. And me and Fred the Wallaby scared the crap out of each other as I was coming around a blind corner in a hurry...again no photos.

Part of the track today went inland on a very beat up, rutted old coach road. No coaches seen...in fact nothing was seen except some very nice scenery. Not hard to find out here! 

We linked up to a road that had lots of double lorry traffic, visions of the Lupin horror in Spain last spring. We walked out of the area as fast as we could.

Lunch stop...

Even the locals have a good sense of humour as the front driveway to this farm indicates...

Closer to my beer...its calling my name. Perhaps we will have wifi tonight and I can post some of this accumulation. 

Later that night...

Well, a dead phone and no charger...sweet! However there is wifi so posting all evening. Tomorrow another 17, but the high climb is replaced by much up and down walking. Considered the hardest part of the walk...we shall see. Annemarie just looked up the weather and there is a posted weather warning with winds to 90 and a major storm coming ashore somewhere tomorrow afternoon. We don't know quite where we are in the forecast area so will ask our hosts in the morning. It's storming outside presently. Just 35 kms to go! Hoping for some good weather in the morning. 

Our dinner guests...husband and wife Gang-gang Cockatoos!