Rest Day: Burgos

Disconnecting ...

When we left on this journey we made a conscious decision

It was made with forethought and would be carried out with precision

We would do our best to disconnect from our regular life commitments

To enable us to enjoy this experience, be more fully present

This means not engaging in discussions about how we earn our way

No tv, limited Internet, not following the news each day

This has been freeing, allowing us to explore different ways of being

Our creativity is coming out, at least that seems to be what we're seeing

The day to day responsibilities haven't pulled at us as much as expected

That's been a bit of a surprise upon which I've reflected

It seems we are learning to develop a new sense of perspective

One that is more open, less directive

Well...this has been nice. A rest day...no gear prep, no early morning, no walking in a down pour, no hospital visit! Actually it's been a bit strange. Caught up with emails early the morning while Annemarie slept and then after a MORNING SHOWER and checking out we found a nice little place for breakfast.

Then it was on to a new hotel which is simpler, but much nicer and more to our taste in the center of old town where we dumped our gear and headed off to see the pride of Burgos...it's cathedral. 

We've seen many churches and mosques and other places of worship, but I have to say that the Spanish put their purge of the New World into a splurge in the Old World. The churches and cathedrals in places like Madrid, Granada, Sevilla, Toledo, Burgos and I understand Leon (will see shortly) are by far amount the finest in Europe. Romanesque and Gothic style are evident throughout with construction beginning in the 12th C completing as late as the 17th C with restoration and updates, and more of the latter in recent times (feel free to correct me Erin). The inside is quite amazing with artisans from all over Europe contributing to the work, particularly during the Renaissance Period. Sit back and enjoy a few photos...

All churched out and a bit overwhelmed, we did what we usually do...we ate more food! Off to a tapas bar for lunch and some very nice wine. The wine you receive with the menu del dia is usually pretty cheap stuff...the reds usually better than the whites, but no where near at a fine wine level. When you go out for tapas or pinchos you can ask for a very, very good glass of wine and believe me, it's still a deal! And sooooo good!

Eating in Spain is a delight. There is always something new to try, and we've learned not to ask too many questions, or you just might not proceed...just point at what you desire and then eat it...no more questions asked! Seldom have we been disappointed. Best part...well not the best part, but e fun part, is you get to throw your used napkin on the floor...I kid you not, and no one gets upset either!

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As i've suggested previously, one of the joys of the Camino is the folks you meet and reconnect with along the way. Yesterday after arriving we had thought that our very long walk in to Burgos would unfortunately separate us from some nice connections we'd made. No need to worry. As we were walking in search of a place to get a good meal last night (so much is closed here on a Sunday night) and out of the blue a fellow we had met from Paris dragged us into a place he was having tapas in and told us how good the food and wine was. He spoke to the bar keep and was told that they would serve us a full meal upstairs...so up we went only to meet two new folks from the Netherlands...and then a short time later we were joined by two fellows from Melbourne (Peter and Dave) who we had met twice since Logrono. We had a wonderful meal together and arrived back at our hotel at about midnight, this after having walked 8 hours and 38 kms! Met more folks today from other stages, so it's one big flowing social here.

Annemarie has generated a bit of poetry (you read a bit at the start), but first I'll leave you with one more photo for contemplation.

Buen Camino!

And................

...And Connecting

We have never before felt more connected to those at home

Normally our contacts are more sporadic when we roam

The blog plays a central role in keeping the communication channels open 

It's a secondary benefit well beyond what we were hopin'

When I think of a blog, I think of one way information flow

That it would turn out to be more reciprocal I didn't know

But as daily comments come in, we know you are all there

You're actually reading it...you're enjoying what we share

This gives us the sense that you are all with us as we walk

Sometimes we even hear your voices while we talk

While we post primarily as our own personal record

We now recognize there is more than that being stored

And we look to add things that will hit a specific chord

...heaven forbid that you might get bored

We picture you as you start your new day

Firing up the computer and checking in to see else we have to say

All of this makes us feel that we are doing this together with you

So keep those comments coming and we'll keep the blog up, too

Stage 13: Villafranca to Burgos, 38 kms 8 hrs, 18C

Oops!

A funny thing happened on the way to Burgos today. We walked all the way. We had intended to walk some 20+ kms and then catch a bus in from an outlying village, except that there were no buses, so we walked onwards to the far end of the city limits where the outside edge of the airport runway ends. We sat at the trail divide and discussed options and the various routes into town, about 9 kms further on...obviously we made the decision to walk on...Annemarie was feeling very strong today...she's floating in a lovely tub of hot water presently:)

So back to the beginning of the story. Yesterday as I mentioned we arrived in Villafranca and snuck into the hotel only to discover that many of the folks that we have really enjoyed the past two weeks also had a similar idea. We had a very nice late lunch with Barney and Noreen from Ireland, and while sitting outside digesting in walked Jack and son Dermot (also of Irish fame) and thing fell nicely into place after that. Somehow after having eaten a full dinner at 2:30pm we all managed to consume an equally large meal at 7:30pm...with desert both times! Total system shock, but we all needed the boost and the results showed during the walk today...much higher energy level.

Off to sleep in our 3* luxury and an early 6:15 awakening to get ready, bandage Annemarie's sore toe and find some breakfast. We had a heck of a deal as our online booking came with a better breakfast than was served to the folks who had to pay separately. Then it was some quick good-byes and off we went up into the hills with rain and driving wind to slow us down a bit. 

It was a bit of a harsh start to the day, but after 12 kms we arrived San Juan de Ortega where we were fortunate enough to find a bar open (Sunday) and sitting there enjoying a cafe con leche was no other than Barney and Norreen...then in walked Jack and Demot. Hey Caitlin...Barney carries a duck on his travels named Patrick...sound familiar?

Off we went again into the elements, but things were finally starting to dry out a bit although the wind continued to blow head on. A couple of small villages along the way including Ages which is apparently little changed over the centuries. 

One final climb after Atapuerca and from there you you could see Burgos many kilometers away, and the beginning of the Meseta.

Not sure what this says, but looked interesting...

A long walk with a nice lunch break in a small village bar...

I might add that today I thought often of our Calgary family as the terrain was very similar to the foothills   which direct one from Canmore towards Calgary. I expect the coming 10 days on the Meseta will refresh those thoughts and many past memories.

And back to the story at the top of this post...a long way into town, but we are here in a cheap 4* hotel  (my, how we have moved up...but it's really not near as nice as last night and we will move tomorrow).

We are now at the 300 km point...only about 500 to go. Feeling very good to this point and looking forward to more walking. What an excellent way to see an area. Tomorrow we will rest our hooves and see Burgos. 

By the way many thanks to those who have made positive comments and send us numerous emails. You may not realize the boost they provide us, but they do!

Buen Comino!

Stage 12: Belorado to Villafranca, only 12 kms, 18C, 2.5 Hrs

Poncho on, Poncho off...

The hostel beds last night were rock hard, trucks rolled by all night and some dog started barking at 4 AM...good thing we planned a short day today. We had a great breakfast with two actual eggs and some jamon, plenty of protein. Then the rain began to come down fairly steadily, then it stopped , then it started...you get the idea. 

Then...at some point, the sun beamed down on us soggy sorts, walking along in the mud...it was exceptional! 

We were all much happier!

Now we tough peregrinos have stopped in a lovely little town in a very 'humble' establishment...it even has its own peacock!  You might see the 3*** rating on the sign beside Annemarie. We snuck in the door when none of our peregrino friends were looking, only to find our friend from Dublin followed us in a short time later. Had a good laugh about that! By the way...they serve cookies with your coffee here...just like in Holland. I'm sitting here typing and a lovely lady just brought me my tea (we are waiting for our room to be ready as its only 11:45). CDN$98 for a beautiful room, with an amazing view plus breakfast. What a splurge!!

On a walking note, we began the long climb up to the Meseta today...a steady climb that will take us up over 1,000 ft tomorrow. The  really hard work will start right out of the gate tomorrow morning...directly to the right of the entrance of our hotel. Hopefully the rain will hold as the next leg could be from 26-31 kms depending on the situation we find along the trail. Annemarie has left me here for a visit to a pharmacist to se if she can locate something to help a toe that has bothered her more each day. I taped it up in someone's doorway earlier today, and that helped, but a better solution might be available. 

We have decided to take a break in Burgos and will have a recovery day on Monday...we will have walked over 300 kms when we reach Burgos and its important to treat ourselves with care. Too many injuries along the way...folks bravely walk onwards...tough souls...it inspires others to continue. Many wonderful encounters along the way. We had a break with an older couple from Finland this morning, the a young girl from Belgium stopped for a chat...a very social process. Caitlin would love this...great to Slype with you yesterday.

Annemarie has been busy again...I've noticed her poetry has become lighter since her recovery...she was a pretty sick lady in Logrono...nice to see her smiling again.

The Social Side

Whenever we travel we meet others who share a similar quest

This trip is the same, as I reflect while I rest

In some ways it's much like being part of a very large tour group

Each morning we're up early and off we collectively troop

We meet people with whom we have an instant connection

We seem to just naturally be going in the same direction 

We  already have lost some of those quickly formed friends it must be said

They have left the trail, stayed behind or moved ahead

But each day as we move along we meet new faces, form new bonds

And quite quickly with these people we become quite fond

The plaza mayor in each town becomes a gathering place

As we help each other find our way around this new space

We share a table, a drink or a meal

Perhaps even help each other find the best deal

We have time each afternoon to share stories of the day's walk

We can settle in with a cool drink and just talk

Whether alone, a couple, or part of a crowd

We are free to join each other, it's allowed

It's also just fine to claim some private space

We seem to easily let everyone  socialize at their own pace

Belorado, sept 27th

Buen Camino!

Stage 11: Santo Domingo to Belorado 23 kms, 4.5 hrs, 27C

Today was a bit different than yesterday...no cute little nuns and for the first time the last part of the walk was less than enjoyable as the trail ran parallel to a major highway. This is why we brought our iPods...kick up the volume and presto...no trucks! We walked that way the last 10 kms and it helped to pass the time. Sue and Nicky, you picked a good stage to miss.

We did bump into Sarah and Neil sitting together in a small village as Neil applied ice to the bottom of Sarah's foot...he was taking some ribbing for that, but it's the solution that works. Annemarie did much better today and it was probably her best day of the Camino. She has a few blisters, but we are dressing and padding them carefully and this seemed to work pretty well today. Tomorrow we will walk only 12 kms as it was difficult to locate adequate accommodation and we are really trying to avoid the dorm bunk beds as long as possible. Short 12 kms tomorrow and a long walk into Burgos the next day. To make things interesting, we are expecting rain and some intense thunder storms in the afternoons. We expect to take a break of some type in Burgos then a short stage to again prep for a bottle neck area which we can hop over the following day. Its busy out here!

A few photos from yesterday ...

Then again, the start of the day today was great too as we got in the middle of a flock of sheep on the trail...the sheep started to follow us and realizing that they would follow anything that moved, we stopped much to the relief of the herder and his beautiful dogs. He gratefully gave us a wave and turned the flock around.

And then there were a few nice dogs along the way today; C, E & B for you...

And just a few shots from the walk today...

And something to finish the day...hey Caitlin, sitting here with a nice couple our age from Dublin shooting the breeze and they warn you about their young Dublin lads who have a touch of the Balarny!

That's Tiger on the left...

Buen Camino.

Stage 10: Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, 21 kms, 4.25 hrs, 28C

With a Town Named Santo Domingo...

We must be staying in a nunnery tonight...and we are! After a shorter, but hot, dusty plod through the rolling farm land and yet more grapes, we arrived to discover that we had booked ourselves into this nunnery. The front desk comes complete with two small, formally dressed and very cute nuns! It was difficult to keep a straight face as these lovely ladies directed us to our rooms about three times and the oldest one then walked over and held the door to the elevator for us. It was great! No pressure sales here at this hostel, "pay us any time" (said in Spanish)...and the room is very nice. As we entered Annemarie commented, "don't even have to look for bed bugs here...the nuns will have scrubbed everything"...and spotless it is.

Once we have showers and get our walking clothes washed and hung to dry we plan to go and mind the menu del dia and have a cold beer. We had a great lunch yesterday and then very little after that, and both felt better for it. These last meals are hard on the system when you have to eat and then crawl in to bed right after. So we have again adjusted. Hey Dad look at this regional specialty I had yesterday with my lunch...

Back to today, started with a long steep climb which no one looks forward to right out of the gate in the morning. Fortunately we found the very best breakfast this morning so were able to fuel up with some eggs, pain de chocolat, fresh orange juice and coffee/tea. Then off we went. Rolling hills with the Rioja red soils...it was hot and dusty, but beautiful.

Notice all the people? This is an ever increasing thing on the Camino...bring a tour bus full of folks...keep them in a 3 or 4 star hotel...give them day packs and set them free on the Camino. They were particular today...more than we've seen. Traditionalist hate them with a passion as they tie up everything, but we just say hello, smile and move past them as we are usually faster walkers, even with our packs on. Apparently we are getting a friendly rep as those fast Canadians...always in jest over a beer or along the way. Bumped into Neil and Sarah...his knee is healing, but her foot is hurting on the bottom. We pass on what we have learned from Natasha and Kim and move on.

We stop for a cold drink at some point at a typical roadside bar...

...and then refreshed for the moment, it's on to the next town, or encounter...today a crazy Dutchman who told us he has been riding from Holland for the past 8 weeks with many to go...

...he is the one in the middle with a guitar on his back...rides about 20 kms per day, but he is definitely in no hurry what so ever!

The trail wound ever onwards, past hay stacks and up and happily down too...

And then the end of our walk was in sight....only 565 kms left to go...well over 25% completed...woo hoo! What a brilliant experience. I pinch myself daily and lie awake very early...eager to get back on the road again..."come on Annemarie' please wake up...it's time to go". You'd think I was 5 years old again...in some ways I think I am!

I try to leave each day with a humorous moment...today it's this...found on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere...

Burn Camino all!  Time for shower and about 10,000 calories...just finished a roll of Oreos. OMG, I am 5 again!!!

This from Annemarie while I have showered and washed clothes...

The  Emotions of the Camino

Yesterday as we walked I made a comment to Geoff about how the Emotions of the Camino have a bit of a pattern...with the beginning being quite emotional, the middle being more settled, and expecting that the end would be more  emotional again. No sooner had I made the statement than we found ourselves with emotions resurfacing as we passed the long fence of crosses, and added two of our own, one for my dad, and one for Rella. All of this has inspired for me another poem, which is a bit of a departure from my usual style....

The Emotions of the Camino

The excitement and exhilaration as we begin our journey in St. Jean

Tears of joy as we reach Valcarlos and it all becomes real

The comfort of knowing we have prepared ourselves well

Pleasure from a simple Buen Camino greeting from a stranger

Anxiety as our first physical challenge faces us

Exhilaration as we pass the first test with grace

Curiosity about the people we meet each day

Delight when we exchange a greeting the next day

The serenity of the rhythm of our stride

Relief when we find our place of rest

Despair when an unexpected illness provides a setback

Tears again as I wonder if I can go on

A return of exhilaration (dare I say power) as I return to myself

Calm, peace and wonder as we walk under the moon

Shear joy as the shower washes away the sweat and dust of the road

A sense of play when we share drinks and tapas with newly met friends 

Tears again as we pass the crosses and place our own

An undefinable moment as we pass the special poem on the wall

Frustration as new blisters and  minor pains emerge,  a little anger, too

Exhaustion at each full day's end

And a return of anticipation, curiosity and a refreshed sense of adventure as each new morning dawns